Running issues with BLI dcc/sound on DC layout

[peteski]

Ok, so with Hornwreckers help, I was able to learn some things.

1. Two locomotives will run on DC and DCC on Bob's layout
2. The two A units are set to run in the same direction by default, so when they are flipped back to back they try to run opposite of each other, and must be reprogrammed to run opposite of each other. (This makes sense as if someone bought one loco or the other, the customer would want them to,run normally)
3. The Railpower 1370 puts out only 0.2A (@ 200u whatever that means) at full throttle. It WILL NOT run two locomotives simultaneously.
4. Sometimes the loco,will run erratically regardless of throttle position
5. The locomotive will not even activate until the throttle is past 50%.
6. I do believe that the throttle only powers a main line only (no accessories)

So is there a way to amplify the throttle as an add-on?
Can I replace these packs with a Kato unit, would they have more power?

There is no reasonable way to boost the power output ( it would be probably easier to build a complete throttle from scratch).  But according to http://www.modelrectifier.com/search/product-view.asp?ID=1291 it can supply 18 VA of power.  If the accessory terminal is not used, that leaves all 18VA (close to 18 Watts) of power for the track output.   That should be around 1 Amp - not 0.2 Amps (or 200 mA).  But the manual doesn't mention if the output is filtered or unfiltered DC.  Since the VA rating is used for power I assume that it is unfiltered DC (since DC power is usually given in Watts).  How was the current measured?

The erratic behaviors are probably due to the unfiltered DC.  The fact that the loco doesn't start until 50% of the throttle power is normal (since it is a sound DCC decoder).  If you look at any reviews of similar locos, they don't start usually until around 8V DC.

[Lemosteam]

Hi Peter,

I used an inexpensive multi-meter, one lead clipped to one rail and the other lead touching the other rail.  The dial was set at the 200mA position when the readout showed 00.2 at full throttle. At any other posion it would only show 00.0.

[peteski]

Hi Peter,

I used an inexpensive multi-meter, one lead clipped to one rail and the other lead touching the other rail.  The dial was set at the 200mA position when the readout showed 00.2 at full throttle. At any other position it would only show 00.0.

John, not I'm thoroughly confused. The way you are describing the measurement you were shorting the circuit with the meter.  Ammeter has to be hooked up in series with the rest of the circuit, not across the rails.  You measure voltage across the rails.

Ammeters have relatively low resistance across the leads (which is like placing a metal coin across the rails - a short).  I'm surprised that the internal fuse in the meter didn't blow.   The ammeter should be inserted somewhere in the circuit. For example disconnect one of the wires coming from the throttle (at the track), then hook up one lead of the meter to that wire and the other lead to the track from which the wire was disconnected.  That will be a correct setup for measuring current.

[Lemosteam]

Peter, this just goes to show how stupid I am regarding electricity, no matter how well it's explained to me.  If I check across a track gap on one rail, will that work?

[Jeff AKA St0rm]

The problem is the powerpack doesn't put out enough amps to power both sound loco's because of how much they draw. I know the power pack you are using and it doesn't have the power.  If you are looking to upgrade your power pack look at this new pack that came out about 2 years ago. it is DC but it will control all your sounds like a DCC system would. it will also power both sound units without a problem as it puts out 2Amps. You will get the same sounds out of both locos at the same time.

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/500-1200

[peteski]

Peter, this just goes to show how stupid I am regarding electricity, no matter how well it's explained to me.  If I check across a track gap on one rail, will that work?

Yes, that'll work.  But even ten, if the current in not filtered (or "pure") DC, the measurement will not be accurate.  However it should suffice.

As far as the power pack capacity goes, I don't own one so I'm only going by the specs. 18VA should be around 1A of current at 12V.  If it is not, then the specs are overstated.