Anybody Using Pin Registration for "Married" Modules?

[C855B]

I might be on a path to design and build a new yard module set for our club. The current version is 25+ years old and, while not bad yet (to the credit of the original builder), the age and wear are starting to show.

Given that the old yard takes nearly an hour to setup because of joiner tracks on every track at every joint, one of my objectives is to make it "joinerless", similar to oNeTrak modules. But because of the multiple tracks, I would then want to rely on some manner of repeatable precision alignment at each module connection. Has anyone here engineered a pin registration system to accomplish this, and, if so, how is it working for you? Or did you arrive at something brilliant that was even better?

[Ike the BN Freak]

I have a pair of modules that are married, I used some 1/4" inner diameter Nylon inserts glued into the end plates, and use some 1/4x20 eye bolts with wing nuts to bolt the modules together.

Makes for quick mating at shows too.

[DKS]

Rick Spano and I together built several N-Track modules back in the mid-70s. One module set we built had non-standard interfaces; we pin-registered them to keep all of the hand-laid track aligned. We did not rely on short flex track joiners between modules, as they would compromise appearance; instead, all of the tracks simply butt together. To maintain alignment, we fabricated a pair of ~3/4-inch aluminum Morse-taper pin and socket assemblies on a lathe.

After the superstructures for the modules were finished, we clamped them together and bored holes through the frames to accept the sockets. We separated the modules, cut reliefs for the socket flanges, and bolted them to the frame (using thread locker to ensure they never came loose). With the modules pinned and clamped together, we hand-laid all of the track that crossed the interface, then sliced the track apart along the joint with a Dremel. Finally, we separated the modules and finished their construction.

The Morse-taper assemblies look like this (not to scale):



The steel bolts threaded into the ends of the pins prevent the pins from being distorted when they're tapped into position or removed. Just a few gentle taps with a hammer will set or free the pins. One other note: being handmade, the pins and sockets tend to be unique. To prevent mixing or losing the pins, they're secured to the frame adjacent to the sockets with wire tethers.

This system has worked flawlessly, and the modules still connect with perfect alignment after 38 years, thousands of miles traveling to shows, and all manner of (unintentional) abuse from unpacking, assembly and repacking.

[Caddy58]

All our FREMO Modules do not have separate joiner tracks but are simply bolted together.
Joiner Pins greatly help to keep the tracks aligned and also makes setting up the modules much faster.

Our recommended joiner pins are originally used to align casting forms:
http://shop1.r-g.de/art/305115
I hope the link works....

My "Whitehall Yard" modules have up to 10 tracks next to each other.
With joiner pins a breeze to set up and it works flawlessly:
Here a link to one of our FREMO activity reports: text is in German (sorry), but pictures of two yards (Ocala and Whitehall), both using joiner pins.
http://www.fremo-net.eu/2579.html?&L=0

So I highly recommend using those pins!
Cheers
Dirk

[garethashenden]

This is one area where Britain, despite it's strange scales and gauges, is way ahead. Because all the houses are quite small, nearly all layouts are designed to be movable and are often built with multiple baseboards. I'm a huge fan of these: http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=437_438&product_id=3800

Once they are installed it's a very reliable system. Those dowels align the boards then you use a couple of bolts to hold it together. They are easy to set up and last forever.

[John]

My "Whitehall Yard" modules have up to 10 tracks next to each other.
With joiner pins a breeze to set up and it works flawlessly:
Here a link to one of our FREMO activity reports: text is in German (sorry), but pictures of two yards (Ocala and Whitehall), both using joiner pins.
http://www.fremo-net.eu/2579.html?&L=0

So I highly recommend using those pins!
Cheers
Dirk

Dirk .. guten tag .. I see that you are using radio for communications?   Also, do you rent the hall, or are they available for free?

[peteski]

Interesting thread.  I also think that another question should be raised.

One of the reasons for using connecting track pieces in the N-Trak standard is to offset the track ends away from the module edge to protect the delicate track from being accidentally damaged while the module is being moved.

With the track ends being flush with the module edge, the probability of damage is much greater (even if using the bulletproof Peco C55 track)     What do you guys do to protect the module edge/track from damage during handling?

[garethashenden]

Interesting thread.  I also think that another question should be raised.

One of the reasons for using connecting track pieces in the N-Trak standard is to offset the track ends away from the module edge to protect the delicate track from being accidentally damaged while the module is being moved.

With the track ends being flush with the module edge, the probability of damage is much greater (even if using the bulletproof Peco C55 track)     What do you guys do to protect the module edge/track from damage during handling?

The best option (especially if you're transporting you layout to exhibitions) is to have custom built boxes to fit the boards and protect everything. The easier method is to take a piece of plywood and screw it on to the end of the board so that it covers the rails.

[Caddy58]

Hello John,
FREMO Europe has more than 75 Meetings each year, and the number is rising!
So you can go to a meeting every weekend...
America-N attends about 5 to 6 Meetings each year: we need to rent the halls, but the FREMO club covers those costs (one reason we pay our annual club fees)

We use radios to communicate with our dispatcher; sometimes dispatch cannot see the layout or is located in a different country (literally).


Peteski,
we solder the track to custom-etched tie strips at the module edge: see attached for pictures:
http://www.fremo-net.eu/922.html?&L=6

The modules travel in custom boxes or have protective end plates that also serve as carrying handle.
Sometimes two modules travel on top of each other, one flipped upside down. So the scenery is fully protected.
Whitehall Yard travels in 4 double-stacks....

Cheers
Dirk

[DKS]

What do you guys do to protect the module edge/track from damage during handling?

We made bolt-on plywood panels that served the dual purposes of protecting the rail ends and locking the nested modules together for shipping. We never had any problems.

[C855B]

Thanks, everyone, for the great input. Dirk and Gareth, your links proved quite valuable in searching for similar products.

Terminology in hand, I found these: http://dccconcepts.com/index_files/Baseboard_alignment_dowels.htm

A ready-made and - dare I say - application-specific solution, these will solve the challenge handily!

Yes, end panels for transport are the easiest way out for protecting the ends. I've built transport boxes, and while they typically offer better protection, the weight penalty and finding storage space at shows complicates their utility.

[garethashenden]

Thanks, everyone, for the great input. Dirk and Gareth, your links proved quite valuable in searching for similar products.

Terminology in hand, I found these: http://dccconcepts.com/index_files/Baseboard_alignment_dowels.htm

A ready-made and - dare I say - application-specific solution, these will solve the challenge handily!

Yes, end panels for transport are the easiest way out for protecting the ends. I've built transport boxes, and while they typically offer better protection, the weight penalty and finding storage space at shows complicates their utility.

Is there a US based distributor for DCC Concepts or are you planning on ordering them from OZ? I've used a few of their other products and I have been very impressed.

[C855B]

I figure on ordering direct, although I haven't thoroughly explored a U.S. reseller yet. I just found similar products at a U.S. tooling house for roughly 3X the price, so I think the shipping cost and time from Aus would likely be worth my while. I like their design better, anyway - the standard tooling equivalent will require more machining on my part.

[Ike the BN Freak]

With the track ends being flush with the module edge, the probability of damage is much greater (even if using the bulletproof Peco C55 track)     What do you guys do to protect the module edge/track from damage during handling?

My modules have two end plates, which are just 3/4" plywood with holes drilled into them. On the module ends, I have threaded inserts, so the end plate can be bolted to them.

The way I have mine set up, In a 4x2x20" area, I can carry 4 NTrak modules, and only reason its 20" is because of the room I have in my VW Golf.

[Andrew Hutchinson]

Mike,

A friend of mine bought the DCC concepts stuff before he came over from Australia. Having had a look at the system I don't know that you'd be any farther ahead sourcing them from Australia. Due in part to the way my buddies layout was constructed (we went with some stupid lightweight design) it was decided to forgo the DCC concepts parts but even still my feeling was that the design made them difficult to locate on the module ends. Getting them fitted to the right depth so that they won't be knocked further inward is a challenge with hand tools, even jig mounted hand tools, and then you add on the price and it just didn't seem like the easiest solution. Incidentally I've since sourced very similar low cost dowels from Rona in Vancouver, BC (possibly the only useful thing Rona sells) and a friend did likewise from the Bellingham, WA Lowes. The one's I've got are about 1.50 a male/female pair, maybe $2. Looking at them they're about 3/8" diameter and all in about 1 1/4" long or 5/8" deep into the module ends. I imagine big stockists like Richlieu have them in their catalogues but my copy is out at a customer's place so can't say for sure. The Rona versions have about 2-3 thou indicated run out.

For my own purposes I went with dowels not unlike those posted by Gareth. I made mine out of 7/8" diameter 1018 CRS (mild steel). They work well. The main advantage that I see over the above is that they are easier to locate than the bullet style. I jig drilled my module ends but at the end of the day it is still wood I was dealing with and so I loaded the bottom  and sides of the dowel with epoxy. Initially I used gel superglue but that was expensive and probably not as good. The bottom of the dowel was covered in tin foil to keep the epoxy out of places it shouldn't be while a ring of magnets held the dowel mating face flush with the module end plate. Once dry you were left with a nicely formed pocket and the dowel could be drilled in and secured. The mating half was then buttered up and the modules brought to bear on one another. Rinse and repeat for the other side of the module. It is worth noting I have only ever used two male/female pairs per module so can't say what would happen across a wider span or if you wouldn't be creating more problems in doing so. One thing I decided to do after the first couple of pairs was to make the second male/female pair a little looser than the first. My worry was that I'd end up storing the modules in different spaces with different humidity and that they would struggle to go together at shows. By leaving the second pair a touch looser the module end could move around a little and the track could be "rotated" into alignment. Two other notes: the modules are actually held altogether by 1/4-20 hardware and I've since drilled right through the female side of the dowel  and associated baseboard to allow for  rear access with an 1/8" brass bar in case of sticks. I haven't had any yet but didn't want to risk it.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/32922165@N06/14751314927/


Andrew Hutchinson