Intermountian SD40T-2

[Robbman]

Although that is a GREAT idea, thank you. There is only one reason why I might not do it that way.

I need to cut the obligatory SP style light into the nose as seen on my HO model. I find it is much easier to do this on just the end of the nose. Easier to hold it in the mill and cut the notch out. If not for the SP style nose light, then I would definitely be ordering an Atlas SD50/60 shell to use the nose from.

I'll have to give this some thought though. It might be the "better" way to approach this.

Again, thanks for the idea.

Yeah... it didn't occur to me you needed the notch!  Only 25 out of the 300+ SD40T-2s built had an 81" nose...

[spookshow]

Looking forward to the ICE units - AFAIK, the first N scale loco in that livery 

Oh wait, IM only goes forward with paint schemes if there are enough pre-orders. Well, I live in hope anyway 

Cheers,
-Mark

[6axlepwr]

The more I dig into this model, the  more of a challenge it becomes. Lets see what I found on it tonight.

- Deck is 0.020" too wide. Should be 0.75". It measures a wobbly 0.765" to 0.770". Most would think this is no big deal, but it is if you plan on using a Kato cab/sub base and yo want it all to line up.

- Blower duct has huge gap between inside edge and side of hood. Easy fix by adding some styrene strip.

- Front step wells are not mirror images of each other. One step well has a 60 degree angle to it and the other has a 65 degree angle. One is slightly wider than the other also. Again, no real big deal if you are not designing steps for them.

- Deck at top of front step wells not fully shot with plastic. Massive void that needs to be filled in.

My plan to correct the deck width is to cut the deck in half at the front and rear, true it up and splice it back together so it measures 0.75" all the way down.

My plan for the front is to cut the steps and pilot plate off and rebuild with styrene. I'll use the step sets I made for the Kato SD40/40-2. They have the correct angle to them.

I'll have to rebuild the anti climber at the rear and build a new one for up front. I'll use the Cannon & Co. parts for reference to build the N-Scale parts.

My plan for rebuilding the radiator access doors is to use the wide latched radiator hood doors from a spare Kato SD40-2 shell I have been cutting parts off of. They are the same width. What I need to do is shorten the door and remove the center hinge.

Right now I am concentrating on the deck though. I cannot get my deck plate designed until I get the deck setup so I can get correct measurements.

[6axlepwr]

Last night I threw in the towel on using the IM deck. Dimensionally it is all over the place. Nothing consistent.

I set up my mill to cut a new deck from a solid sheet of styrene. This will make designing the deck plate much easier. I will have consistent dimensions to use for the design. I will also design new step wells. I'll use the same principle design as Railflyer used in the HO step well etchings. I'll make a few changes to my design though. This will give me a nice crisp step well. I'll also design the pilot plates. These I will laminate to a piece of 0.010" styrene sheet. Underneath the deck I will build a scale or somewhat to scale draft gear box. All this glued together will give a very solid end platform and deck.

The deck plate, pilot plate and step wells will be etched from 0.004" material.

This tunnel motor build has turned into a major undertaking. I know it can be done, it is just going to take a bit more time. Once the deck is done, everything else will pretty much fall in place.

[James Costello]

Last night I threw in the towel on using the IM deck. Dimensionally it is all over the place. Nothing consistent.
.........................
This tunnel motor build has turned into a major undertaking. I know it can be done, it is just going to take a bit more time.

You wouldn't be the first around here to use the term "steaming yard loaf" to describe the SD40T-2 shell....   

Clearly state of the art....   

[Greyryder]

At what point does it become easier to just scratchbuild the thing?

[6axlepwr]

At what point does it become easier to just scratchbuild the thing?

Yeah, as it looks now about half of it is going to be scratch built/ kit bashed.

I finished cutting the deck tonight. Now I have a dimensionally correct deck to start with.

[SkipGear]

I thought I went through a lot of work on this.

http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/1767/CEFXSD45R_35_Finished_Front_Quarter.jpg
http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/1767/CEFXSD45R_37_Finished_Brake_Side.jpg

It's not perfect but it looks a lot better and is more accurate than a Kato.

It may be easier to scratch build with all the changes you plan.

[6axlepwr]

Tony,

What is it that you are pointing out with your photo links?

[SkipGear]

Tony,

What is it that you are pointing out with your photo links?

Nothing in particular. That loco started life as a Bachmann SD45. Lots of detail work, lots of frame modifications but it was worth it. I still would not go as far as completely rebuilding the sills and all the work you are planning. When I finished, it looked like a model of the loco I was replicating, not measure for measure but it is instantly recognizeable. I get many people at local shows commenting, "Hey, I've seen that loco around here." That is good enough for me.

[cnw mike]

Is there anything in particular that makes the B-mann a better starting point for an SD45 than the Kato? I'm in the planning stages of doing one of the relatively rare no-dynamic brake SD45s.

[garethashenden]

Is there anything in particular that makes the B-mann a better starting point for an SD45 than the Kato? I'm in the planning stages of doing one of the relatively rare no-dynamic brake SD45s.

The Bachmann SD-45s are cheaper than the Kato ones. That's the main advantage.

[6axlepwr]

I have put this model away for the time being. It is taking up way to much time to design all the parts and causing me to go through modeling withdrawal. I am back to working on my snoot SD40-2.

[SkipGear]

Is there anything in particular that makes the B-mann a better starting point for an SD45 than the Kato? I'm in the planning stages of doing one of the relatively rare no-dynamic brake SD45s.

1. The Bachmann hood is the correct width, the Kato is visibly wide.
2. At the time of the build, Kato SD45's were long sold out and gone.
3. Because of the correct hood width, it made it easier to use an Atlas nose to get the correct brake style and location.
4. Bachmann is much easier to do brass handrails.
5. Once you get the heavy paint off of a Bachmann, they are actually tooled pretty crisp. (mine started as an undec)
6. Kato locos run too fast to consist with the other locos that this was going to be run with. (doesn't matter now, went DCC)

[Catt]

I keep reading that the KATO hoods are to wide.Since I make SD38s and SD38-2s using KATO locos with ATLAS hoods and they are a perfect match does that mean the ATLAS hoods are to wide also?