Intermountian SD40T-2

[6axlepwr]

Yeah, I bet when you saw the title and who it was by, you were like " what an  , not again. "

No worries though. Not harping on it. Actually a bit positive about it. 

I received today the SD40T-2 I won on EBAY for $40.00. It will remain that it is pretty rough, but I do believe I can do something with it and look forward to working on it. The stance on the model is not as bad as all the photos I have seen of it showed. The drive did fall out as soon as I pulled it from the box. Nothing to hold the shell to the frame. Nothing I can do about the ham fisted door latches, but maybe all the detail work will draw attention away from them.

I'll build this N-Scale model to look exactly like my HO CSR #509 http://www.6axlepwr.com/files/CSR_SD40T2_509_02.jpg

1. I will cut the radiator fans out from the inside and add a radiator core. The wire radiator grill works to the modelers advantage. Because of this design I can  get some depth in there. It is not a difficult task. I only need to cut a block of styrene to size because the core vanes would be so small in N that you would virtually not see any features. So the benefit is the depth I can get out of it.

2. The contactor doors on teh DB hatch appear to be a seperate part. I can pop them off and sand the backs down to thin the door. Then simply glue them back on.

3. The roof between the DB hatch and the radiator fans is missing some panel lines. I can add what is needed.

4. I wil construct a new either 4300 or 4400 fuel tank. I'll have to look at my notes again and see which one it is. The IM fuel tank is a bit pathetic, but then again most N-Scale fuel tanks are lifeless and pathetic.

5. I'll liven up the underframe with new air reservoirs and a few other details. Make it look busy.

5. I need to put an 88" nose on the model so I will graft one from a Kato SD40-2. I'll probably use the Kat cab also. The IM cab is a bit lifeless for me.

6. I'll design some photo etch for the walkway tread plate as well as step sets.

7. Plumb the brake cylinders and add sanding hoses.

8. Liven up the pilot plates. I need to add a jumbo anti-climber as well. Put some ditch lights on top.

9. Graft Kato inertial air intakes and put a Kato dust bin on. I have castings for these.

10. Still working on it, but if I can get the Q-exhaust to finally come out correct, I will put this on as well. I was able to successfully remove teh Q fans from the Athearn F59PHI shell and cast them. But do not need them for this model. But I have them 

11. I'll cut the DB fans off and replace them with copies of the Kato DB fan. I like the way the Kato fans look. Plus I want my models to have a uniform look to them.

I am actually pretty excited about this build. It will be a future build, but one I will enjoy working on. I am sure I will have to fine tune the chassis. Maybe see if I can stuff a Kato motor in it.

[James Costello]

I'll be watching with interest Brian - I have a bunch of eBay wins awaiting production time too.

[nkalanaga]

I've had one for years and hauled it out today, just to see if I wanted to order their new SD40-2s.  Not being an SP modeler, it doesn't get run much on my Montana-based BN...

I agree.  Mine doesn't have any apparent assembly problems, looks fine with a Kato SD40-2, runs well in combination with my other units, and ran smoothly by itself, after cleaning the contact strips a little.  The frame didn't fall out of mine, but that may be a matter of exactly how the frame and shell are assembled.  I have no complaints about it.

[SD35]

Hi Brian,

nice HO 509 ! Thanks for picture !
I´ll be watching your N scale work too.           

Rainer

[Spades]

Hi Brian

Looking forward to your work on the 40T-2.  Have you seen sp4009's work on Trainboard N Scale diesel kitbashers and detailers group, he has a number of builds going on including a SD40T-2 check out his SD40R and late GP40-2 builds.  The Kato nose ( and mech) is wider than the IM shell.  I look forward to seeing your work especially on the fuel tank and underframe. I have striped and repainted as well as changed cab, headlight castings  added exhaust silencer for that post 1980's

Greg

[6axlepwr]

I do not have an account on Trainboard. I have not seen sp4009's work. Do you have a direct link to it?

Yes, the Kato hoods are wide, but I need an 88" nose. What I can do though is cut the end of the nose off the Kato part and just use the side panels. Then put the nose end on from an Atlas model. It is the correct width.

Currently I have taken everything off the model including all the photo etch. The only photo etch I will put back on is the top radiator grills. All the other is just bogus incorrect stuff. The radiator intake grills are all wrong. They should be in a corrugated shape. I'll make new ones. The inertial intake grills also should also be corrugated. I'll cut the intake grills from a Kato shell and transplant them onto the IM shell.

The final think that I need to change is the DB hatch. The IM one has not detail feature on it. I'll cut one from a Kato and resize it to fit the IM shell. I'll have to cut it in half the long way and splice it back together.

Surprisingly, I do like the modular design that IM did on this model. Makes it easy to build on it. I'll replace the cab and sub base with the Kato parts from their new SD40-2.

My task this week is just to design the walkway tread plate. I designed the steps yesterday.

[fredmoehrle]

I'm told the nose on the Life like GP-38-2 (new) is a 88" nose.
Plus it's scale width and a separate piece.
Maybe that would be an easier way to go.

[Scottl]

I'm looking forward to this when you get to it.  Any shots of the body stripped down?

[6axlepwr]

I checked the Life Like model. it has the miner brake. I need the enclosure with a brake wheel. The Kato model has an excellent rendition of this detail. Basically I will build the nose somewhat like an HO scale Cannon & Co. nose. I'll cut out all the separate parts and put them all back together. The top will come from an atlas nose. I'll splice two Atlas nose tops together to get the correct length. I only need one so building it will not be troublesome. I already have all the parts I need.

I have not taken any photos yet of anything. I typically start experimenting with things and then forget to take the necessary in process photos.

I need to order a couple of undecorated Santa Fe style shells to start cutting parts off of them. I need the Santa Fe ones so I have the nice Kato Air conditioner on the roof and also the blanked out head light between the number boards.

[Robbman]

You could use the nose from an Atlas SD50/60, shave the toilet access hatch off.  I made a later phase N&W SD40-2 with that and a Kato snoot...

[Spades]

I do not have an account on Trainboard. I have not seen sp4009's work. Do you have a direct link to it?

Brian

Here you go.  http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/group.php?discussionid=886&do=discuss  You don't have to have an account to view.  Select groups from the header, choose diesel kitbashers and details.

Greg

[6axlepwr]

Although that is a GREAT idea, thank you. There is only one reason why I might not do it that way.

I need to cut the obligatory SP style light into the nose as seen on my HO model. I find it is much easier to do this on just the end of the nose. Easier to hold it in the mill and cut the notch out. If not for the SP style nose light, then I would definitely be ordering an Atlas SD50/60 shell to use the nose from.

I'll have to give this some thought though. It might be the "better" way to approach this.

Again, thanks for the idea.

[6axlepwr]

I do not have an account on Trainboard. I have not seen sp4009's work. Do you have a direct link to it?

Brian

Here you go.  http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/group.php?discussionid=886&do=discuss  You don't have to have an account to view.  Select groups from the header, choose diesel kitbashers and details.

Greg

Thanks Greg. I appreciate the link.

So far we think alike. I will not be casting any of the parts since I only need to build one. The only cast part I need will be the Q-exhaust. Saw something there that I need to do. The latches on the access door under the rad grills. I need to make note of that and add them as well. My approach to the nose and battery boxes is different. I do not need any special doors for mine. I'll use the Kato sub base. My nose light is different too. Easy to build. Instead of building a complete radiator intake grill, I am going to just make the corrugated screens and fit them in.

I'll check back on this link and see what progress is being made. Mine will not get started for a while though, but I am going to put a lot of effort into my model. I seriously want this model to stand out.

[ednadolski]

I'll build this N-Scale model to look exactly like my HO CSR #509 http://www.6axlepwr.com/files/CSR_SD40T2_509_02.jpg

Man, that has got to be one of the most well-done models I have ever seen, in any scale.  If you have any outdoor pics, I'd bet no one could tell it was a model.  Can't wait to see the N scale version!   

What's you plan for the brake chain?   I'm wondering if a part like that could be etched, but it would be pretty small in N, and it would have to allow for truck swing.

Ed

[6axlepwr]

I am not going to do anything with the brake chain. No way to do it in N. One of those compromises we have to make. For as small as the chain would be in N, it could be represented with thin wire or waxed thread, but it would not look like chain. It is one of those details that is not going to happen.

Last night while I was getting measurements for the deck plate, I was looking over a few things I need to do to this model. IM made the fuel tank a scale 1'-3" to long. A 4400 gallon fuel tank is 22'-3". The IM tank is 23'-6" long. Not concerned though since I will be making a whole new tank. Also, another mistake IM made. The access doors under the radiator grills. They put them on upside down. The hinge is supposed to be at the top. Also, they left off the door latches. The Trainboard build pointed that out. I am going to approach rebuilding these doors differently. I am going to slice and dice hood doors and then add the reinforcing ribs.

Right now though I am concentrating on getting the deck plate designed so it fits perfectly.