Author Topic: Santa Fe in China Basin  (Read 59387 times)

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railnerd

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Beat to Fit; Paint to Match
« Reply #210 on: July 21, 2017, 12:46:44 PM »
+6
Dry fitting the outer pilings and making modifications to the printed parts with my flush cutters.




3DTrains

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Re: Santa Fe in China Basin
« Reply #211 on: July 21, 2017, 12:54:43 PM »
0
Holy Toledo - that looks great, even unpainted!

Cheers!
Marc - Riverside

Specter3

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Re: Santa Fe in China Basin
« Reply #212 on: July 21, 2017, 10:25:37 PM »
0
I was gonna say the same. Really looks good. It really is amazing where 3d printing is going so quickly.

railnerd

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More Detailing and Paint
« Reply #213 on: July 23, 2017, 12:34:35 PM »
+4
After assembling the prints and plastic pilings, I decided to go ahead and add the additional timers, along with some Tichy nut/bolt/washer castings.  I am looking to add interest to the most exposed side of the print, and draw attention away from any printing artifacts.



The next step was to apply a "base" primer coat to the entire assembly.  I stole a trick from my military modeling friends and instead of using a gray primer, I sprayed the whole thing with Games Workshop Chaos Black primer.  The idea here is to get my "shadows" for free:



After the primer dried overnight, I added some additional layers of Vallejo acrylic paint.  Some full strength German Camo Black Brown, and some washes of Leather Brown.  I'm debating about whether to add any additional lighter washes, as every time I add a lighter shade, the printing artifacts appear to be enhanced. As I'm modeling the pier much earlier than any of my reference photos, I also need to restrain myself from over-distressing the structure.


Philip H

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Re: Santa Fe in China Basin
« Reply #214 on: July 23, 2017, 04:40:01 PM »
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Add a couple of guano streaks here and there and call it good.
Philip H.
Chief Everything Officer
Baton Rouge Southern RR - Mount Rainier Division.

"Yes there are somethings that are "off;" but hey, so what." ~ Wyatt

"I'm trying to have less cranial rectal inversion with this." - Ed K.

"There's more to MRR life than the Wheezy & Nowheresville." C855B

Cajonpassfan

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Re: Santa Fe in China Basin
« Reply #215 on: July 23, 2017, 07:44:33 PM »
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Awesome work, joy to follow :o
Otto K.

railnerd

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Patience is a Virtue
« Reply #216 on: July 23, 2017, 09:44:57 PM »
+8
Spent another insanely hot day working on the pier end.  After the initial coat of paint was dry, I finally had a chance to add on the real wooden parts to the structure.  Formula 560 Canopy Glue turned out to be my weapon of choice, as it will adhere wood to plastic, dries fast, and dries clear.





Once the large pilings were in, I shifted attention to wrapping the structure with the smaller pilings.  Several attempts were needed to wrap a painted plastic structure around the hulk to attach the outer pilings.  After lots of trial and error, including some ill advised attempts to use CA adhesive, I got things to work.  It turns out PRE-bending the plastic worked much better than attempting to bend while gluing.





While the NASCAR Brickyard 400 race playing in the background, I methodically attached the outer piers one or two at a time. Around the time the race ended (it went to overtime) I was finished with this daunting task:







For some context, here's the assembly placed adjacent to the under construction ferry slip:





P.S.: Yes, the entire dock will eventually be visited by N Scale seagulls, for you weathering fans.

Santa Fe Guy

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Re: Santa Fe in China Basin
« Reply #217 on: July 23, 2017, 10:01:47 PM »
0
Simply superb Railnerd. Have you given any thought to dry brushing the timbers with a flat gull grey and adding rust to the bolts and nuts? Would look striking.
I have learn a lot about weathering by following some military modelling sites and following their tips.
Great job on everything thus far.
Rod.
Santafesd40.blogspot.com

railnerd

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Re: Santa Fe in China Basin
« Reply #218 on: July 24, 2017, 01:58:25 AM »
0
Simply superb Railnerd. Have you given any thought to dry brushing the timbers with a flat gull grey and adding rust to the bolts and nuts? Would look striking.
I have learn a lot about weathering by following some military modelling sites and following their tips.
Great job on everything thus far.
Rod.

Yep, that's the plan, want to attack weathering the whole dock at once, though.  I'm grinding away on this like a glacier carves down a mountain— slow, yet relentless.

-Dave

Spades

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Re: Patience is a Virtue
« Reply #219 on: July 24, 2017, 01:39:39 PM »
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P.S.: Yes, the entire dock will eventually be visited by N Scale seagulls, for you weathering fans.

Dave

What is the source of these seagull? Shapeways?

railnerd

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Re: Patience is a Virtue
« Reply #220 on: July 24, 2017, 01:58:45 PM »
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Dave

What is the source of these seagull? Shapeways?

Nah, not everything is on Shapeways…

http://modeltechstudios.com/nscaledetailsseagullspack7gulls.aspx

dcutting

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Re: Latest Update
« Reply #221 on: July 24, 2017, 08:36:51 PM »
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Did the second print, and added some pilings.  Going to do some more tweaking before I glue, detail, and paint.







This is making me want to seriously consider some LIRR platforms again. Nice job!
David Cutting

Spades

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Re: Santa Fe in China Basin
« Reply #222 on: July 25, 2017, 09:03:22 PM »
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Dave

Have you done a test of the module in the Mini, with the structure in place? 

G

railnerd

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Re: Santa Fe in China Basin
« Reply #223 on: July 26, 2017, 12:53:34 PM »
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Dave

Have you done a test of the module in the Mini, with the structure in place? 

G

The pier isn't tied down to the module yet, and I don't yet have plywood endplate on the other end of the module yet.

That said, with both rear seats down, everything fits and sits flat with plenty of space— but it is more likely that by the time I finish this module, I'll have a different (larger) car.

-Dave

railnerd

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Benchwork for the Illinois Street switching layout
« Reply #224 on: July 26, 2017, 06:32:14 PM »
+2
Started construction of the benchwork for Illinois Street shelf layout.   Cut two 12" x 36" long plywood tabletops as a start:



Adding 1x2 and 2x2 hardwood framing below the layout to provide some strength and make room for the low profile switch machines and other electronics.  Side rails are fine without additional woodwork— will eventually trim plywood flush, as it was a tiny bit longer than 36":



Cutting the oak cross braces to length:



Dry fitting the side rails and end/cross bracing: