Author Topic: Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build  (Read 5627 times)

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superturbine

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Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build
« on: October 25, 2013, 06:36:52 PM »
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Good model railroads have good motive power. Great model railroads have great "Steam Power". 
 
Thus begins the Union Pacific 2-8-8-0 BULL MOOSE build


Now to turn this into a BULL MOOSE


Let me state first that Adam "Drasko" had several of the ideas for the engine build.  He and I have been bouncing ideas off one another for the last year on this engine.  Also, I take a slightly different approach to an engine build.  I like to build and test a concept model, prove that it work, correct any slight proportion issues, recast the new master and build multiple copies.  So please keep this in mind as the build progresses.   So let the fun begin. 


Jason Smith
Tomball Locomotive Works
« Last Edit: October 25, 2013, 09:34:09 PM by superturbine »

up1950s

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Re: Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build
« Reply #1 on: October 25, 2013, 06:44:28 PM »
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I had an HO Sunset one , I want an N Scale one .

pnolan48

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Re: Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build
« Reply #2 on: October 25, 2013, 08:13:30 PM »
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Are you starting from a LL Y-3? Can't wait!

superturbine

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Re: Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build
« Reply #3 on: October 25, 2013, 09:00:29 PM »
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First step get rid of the clutter and reduce the side of the frame.  Many people with question reducing the frame size since the Life Like Mallet is know for poor pulling.  However, much of the weight will be regained if not increased with tungsten.

Simplified frame and reduced diameter to accept the smaller boiler of the Bull Moose.

Richie, I also bought a Sunset Brass HO scale Bull Moose.  I find an HO brass model to be a very useful tool for sizing and getting the right proportions of a boiler.


Jason Smith
Tomball Locomotive Works
« Last Edit: October 25, 2013, 09:35:35 PM by superturbine »

superturbine

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Re: Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build
« Reply #4 on: October 25, 2013, 09:10:47 PM »
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One of the benefits of the way I cast boilers is that I can shape and greatly resize a boiler.  Here is the comparison of my 4-12-2 boiler and the HO scale brass 2-8-8-0...Not too far off!


Here are the domes of the Brass Ho Boiler Around around 6 months ago I did a Alumilite Putty Mold of the domes (This mold will not damage the expensive HO Brass model) and then used Hydo-span 400 to downsize to N scale.
http://www.industrialpolymers.com/category/product-list/hydrospan-400-shrinking-resin/

Here are the domes installed. The boiler has been reshaped, original domes removed and new domes installed, cab moved up, firebox reduced in size and boiler length shorted.

Boiler installed and properly fits, the dimensions of the boiler appear correct.   


Jason Smith
Tomball Locomotive Works
« Last Edit: October 25, 2013, 11:58:13 PM by superturbine »

superturbine

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Re: Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build
« Reply #5 on: October 25, 2013, 11:57:24 PM »
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Added cast smoke stack, feed water heater and some details of the smoke box door.



Day 1 ...........Lots more work to go!
« Last Edit: October 26, 2013, 12:03:01 AM by superturbine »

peteski

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Re: Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build
« Reply #6 on: October 26, 2013, 12:48:40 AM »
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Wow!  Just when I thought that Jason's last model was the tops, he comes out with yet another masterpiece! 

You Sir in my book deserve a "most prolific N scale steam loco builder" title.  Seriously!
Then of course Max easily earns "2nd most prolific N scale steam loco builder" title.  :)

I'm a also trying to figure out whether your builds should be called scratchbuilds or kitbashes.  That is a tough one! I would lean towards "scratchbuilt", since so many parts of your models are scratchbuilt.
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kelticsylk

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Re: Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build
« Reply #7 on: October 26, 2013, 01:51:20 AM »
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Thanks for the Hydrospan link. It seems a better way to do things than Hydroshrink. They recommend urethane molds, but I note you are using Alumilite. Will other clay or putty work?

peteski

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Re: Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build
« Reply #8 on: October 26, 2013, 02:52:43 AM »
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Thanks for the Hydrospan link. It seems a better way to do things than Hydroshrink. They recommend urethane molds, but I note you are using Alumilite. Will other clay or putty work?

Both are the same thing.  Hudrospan is the name of the product. There are different types: one expands and one shrinks.  Hydroshrink is simply a name given to Hydrospan 400 (the shrinking type) by the reseller.
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mmagliaro

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Re: Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build
« Reply #9 on: October 26, 2013, 04:17:31 AM »
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Wow!  Just when I thought that Jason's last model was the tops, he comes out with yet another masterpiece! 

You Sir in my book deserve a "most prolific N scale steam loco builder" title.  Seriously!
Then of course Max easily earns "2nd most prolific N scale steam loco builder" title.  :)

I'm a also trying to figure out whether your builds should be called scratchbuilds or kitbashes.  That is a tough one! I would lean towards "scratchbuilt", since so many parts of your models are scratchbuilt.

Oh no I don't!  It takes me forever to build one engine.  I build one in the time Jason builds 10.
Honestly, Jason, I don't know how you do it.  It would take me weeks to complete what you have already done in 1
or 2 days on this thing.   I need to go research the Bull Moose and follow along.

Hey, is that smokebox front a separate casting that you are applying detail to, or did it start as a round piece
of plastic?

As for the kitbash vs scratchbuilt question, I struggle with that all the time, for Jason's, my own, and many other engines.
There are so many modifications and handmade parts that it seems unfair to call it a "kitbash".  When I think of
"kitbash", I imagine somebody sawing up a few pieces of a shell or a structure, putting them together, and then
maybe tacking on a few details.  These projects are way more involved than that. 
FYI, the NMRA loco judging sheet doesn't classify it that way.   They break it out as
scratchbuilt - complete, scratchbuilt -partial, modified commercial, kitbash, kitbuilt, and modified ready-to-run.
Those make a lot more sense to me.   To be called scratchbuilt-complete, the engine has to be a greater than 90%
scratchbuilt structure + details.   

I'm afraid as long as the mechanism and drivers are commercial, these (and mine) will always be called
"scratchbuilt - partial".

I know that doesn't bother me, and I doubt it bothers Jason when he watches another one of his beautiful
projects gliding around his layout.  ;)

Lemosteam

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Re: Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build
« Reply #10 on: October 26, 2013, 06:38:23 AM »
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Great another build thread!  I better get off my  :ashat:.  I feel so lazy, living vicariously through Max and Jason! :D

Jason, looking great!

davefoxx

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Re: Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build
« Reply #11 on: October 26, 2013, 09:10:28 AM »
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Day 1 ...........Lots more work to go!

That's Day 1?!  :o  Wow!  Sleep much?

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draskouasshat

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Re: Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build
« Reply #12 on: October 26, 2013, 09:52:37 AM »
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First step get rid of the clutter and reduce the side of the frame.  Many people with question reducing the frame size since the Life Like Mallet is know for poor pulling.  However, much of the weight will be regained if not increased with tungsten.

Simplified frame and reduced diameter to accept the smaller boiler of the Bull Moose.

Richie, I also bought a Sunset Brass HO scale Bull Moose.  I find an HO brass model to be a very useful tool for sizing and getting the right proportions of a boiler.


Jason Smith
Tomball Locomotive Works

It looks great!! I do think that the step down section needs to be about half the length of what it is. you can see it in the bottom pic. It will be hard to take down but i think that will really bring out the profile. Otherwise, nothing but badassery in here!!!
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Re: Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build
« Reply #13 on: October 26, 2013, 12:52:44 PM »
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Jason, do you EVER sleep?
Another masterpiece on the way...... Just please don't  finish it over the weekend, us mere mortals want to savor the progress for at least a little bit.... 8)
Otto K.



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Re: Bull Moose 2-8-8-0 Build
« Reply #14 on: October 26, 2013, 01:15:23 PM »
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Oh no I don't!  It takes me forever to build one engine.  I build one in the time Jason builds 10.
Honestly, Jason, I don't know how you do it.  It would take me weeks to complete what you have already done in 1
or 2 days on this thing.   I need to go research the Bull Moose and follow along.

Yes, you might build at a much slower pace, but besides Jason and you, there aren't many others who build N scale steam locos and who publicly document the progress.  I still stand by my a$$ertion.  :D

Quote
As for the kitbash vs scratchbuilt question, I struggle with that all the time, for Jason's, my own, and many other engines.
There are so many modifications and handmade parts that it seems unfair to call it a "kitbash".  When I think of
"kitbash", I imagine somebody sawing up a few pieces of a shell or a structure, putting them together, and then
maybe tacking on a few details.  These projects are way more involved than that. 
FYI, the NMRA loco judging sheet doesn't classify it that way.   They break it out as
scratchbuilt - complete, scratchbuilt -partial, modified commercial, kitbash, kitbuilt, and modified ready-to-run.
Those make a lot more sense to me.   To be called scratchbuilt-complete, the engine has to be a greater than 90%
scratchbuilt structure + details.   

I'm afraid as long as the mechanism and drivers are commercial, these (and mine) will always be called
"scratchbuilt - partial".

I know that doesn't bother me, and I doubt it bothers Jason when he watches another one of his beautiful
projects gliding around his layout.  ;)

That breakdown actually makes sense (one of the few things NMRA does that makes sense).   :trollface:

I tip my hat to the partial-scratchbuilders of the Railwire!  ;)
--- Peteski de Snarkski

-"Look at me, I'm satirical!!!"
-"Look at me, I'm anal retentive!!!"
-"Look at me, I have the most posts evahhhh!!!"
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-"Look at me, I have OCD!!!"
-"Look at me, I'm a curmudgeon!!!!"
-"Look at me, I'm not negative, just blunt and honest!!!"