Coupler Trip Pins

[mightypurdue22]

In doing some research on body mount couplers, I ran across the notion of cutting the trip pins off from MT couplers.  Is the sole purpose of the trip pins for magnetic uncoupling?  Or is it somehow supposed to resemble the hose from car to car?  I don't use magnetic uncoupling, and likely never will as I've tried and don't care for it.

Any thoughts on whether I should snip them off?

Thanks!
Dave

[Scottl]

Then they become cosmetic, in a kind of oversized, clunky way.  If you come to removing them, I would pull them out rather than snip them.  Who knows, maybe you will find a reason to put them back in again. 

[wazzou]

Don't you have to keep at least some part of the pin remaining to keep the coupler together and operable?

[Scottl]

Hmmm.  I have some where the trip pin fell out and they seem to work OK. 

[Chris333]

I think the knuckle can open further than it should if the pin is pulled. I clip all my pins. I don't use the un-coupling feature and the pins sort of lock in the cars to each other. So when I pick up a car off the tracks I get the next car as well. That is my main reason to clip them.

[peteski]

Is the sole purpose of the trip pins for magnetic uncoupling?  Or is it somehow supposed to resemble the hose from car to car? 

Both.  Its purpose is to magnetically open the coupler while resembling an air hose.  It was a pretty darn clever idea if you think about it.   Personally, I think that those pins do a pretty good job of simulating the air hoses, but many of the modelers who strive for better model accuracy do not agree.

The pins also restrict how far the coupler opens, so if you don't want them then snipping (rather than removing) them is recommended.

[ednadolski]

Is the sole purpose of the trip pins for magnetic uncoupling?

I sometimes wonder if the sole purpose is to "trip" the cars over turnout frogs and closure rails....   


Ed

[nkalanaga]

Ed:  They won't if the pins are adjusted right and the rails are properly laid. 

I leave mine on, mostly because I'm lazy, but have clipped a few on locos where they got in the way of plows.  The couplers seem to work better if the pin is there, so, like the others, I don't recommend removing them completely.  The Nn3/Z couplers are the same way, except that the pins seem to fall out of the 903/905 couplers with some regularity....

[robert3985]

I don't use the "magnematic" features of Z scale (or N scale) MT couplers, so's I just snips 'em off...all of 'em.   I can see no possible reason to think I might want to have dongles on my cars and engines ever again.  However, as has been amply stated, the inserted portion has a mechanical function, so just snip 'em off about even, or an RCH lower than the bottom of the coupler.

Works for me! 

[peteski]

To add to my earlier post, if this question was about N-scale knuckle couplers in general, not just MT, then I would recommend the following:

1. MT - snip the pin (as it also prevents coupler from opening too far)
2. McHenry - snip the pin (if it is pulled out, the knuckle itself and a little spring will fall out)
3. New Bachmann coupler (Easymate?) - same recommendation as McHenry
4. Accumate - pin can be freely removed without ill effect (it is only needed during uncoupling)
5. Kato - same recommendation as Accumate

I think that pretty much covers all the N scale couplers with metal uncoupling (trip) pins.

[Rossford Yard]

I think there is a trend around here to just remove or clip the pins.  I do find they can catch on the proto size Atlas N track more than C 80, but memory might be fuzzy. I sure recall the occasional trip pin trip up on my old layout, too.

It also eliminates the unprototypical look of the magnet ramps, unless you preplan and put them in before track, and allows you to uncouple anywhere with a  pick.  there was a thread on lighting those (thanks!) and

Has anyone experimented with fitting a skewer/pick with some sort of small magnet that might also separate the couplers with a partial trip pin, rather than simply mechanically wedging them apart, which sometimes leads to derailments itself?

[VonRyan]

If a trip pin is snagging frogs and closure rails, then it is too low.

To remedy, push the pin back up into the coupler and using a good pair of pliers, sorta 'crush' the exposed top of the trip pin to keep it from inadvertently lowering again.


-Cody F.

[davefoxx]

When I cut off my MTL trip pins, I like to first push the pin down so it is flush on the top of the coupler.   Then, once trimmed, it's flush top and bottom and practically invisible.

DFF

[sp org div]

Guess I am the only one that still likes the magne-matic couplers... 
They are a part of operations on my layout.  The main yard has no magnets so operators have to use the skewers or Rix pics for that, and wherever else they are so inclined; but there are a number of industries that are not readily accessible, so electro and under layout magnets are in numerous locations in an effort to protect layout details from mishaps.  Cars for those industries are maintained in an effort to make the use smooth as possible.
Granted, not many options that look as good as Ed's coupler pockets with the Bowsers, but that 30 yr old MT technology is still in use here for now...
Jeff
http://espeeoregondivision.blogspot.com/

[peteski]

Guess I am the only one that still likes the magne-matic couplers... 
They are a part of operations on my layout.
http://espeeoregondivision.blogspot.com/

Oh no, you're not. Far from it!  I operate on layouts where all the trip pins are still installed and magnetic uncoupling is used in the exact way you described on your layout.