Author Topic: ER Models Sharks front Couplers  (Read 971 times)

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absnut

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ER Models Sharks front Couplers
« on: October 04, 2013, 09:39:51 PM »
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I have finally found a pair of D&H Sharks and would like to change couplers. I will replace the rear Rapidos with Unimates since the locos will spend most of their running time lashed together. In my travels around the various forums, I remember reading a thread about how someone had installed MT couplers to the front of these locos. Can anyone point me in the right direction here? I've tried the various search engines with no success. Thanks in advance for any help.

LV LOU

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Re: ER Models Sharks front Couplers
« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2013, 09:45:02 PM »
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Use MTL Bachmann Spectrum F7 couplers on them.I use the Accu-Mates between them,also,much closer coupling.One tip,the Accu-Mates really don't fit the Bachmann  boxes..Use the MTL boxes,they drop right in.I do the same thing on the Spectrum F7's..

brokemoto

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Re: ER Models Sharks front Couplers
« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2013, 11:27:38 PM »
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If you want some really close coupling, try the extremely short shank Rapidos that LL used between the plastic frame FA-FB-2s.  As for the front, 1134 (the long shank version of 1133).  One thing that I have found on these, though, is that you must really work the replacement coupler box back into the slots on the tongue of the truck mount.  At the same time, you must take care not to break the nubs on the MT coupler box. 

Another solution is to use the original knuckle couplers that came on the C-C corrugated cars.  Remember?  Those funny shaped brown things that were worse than the MDC knuckle couplers?  Funny thing, they do stay coupled to MTs, AccuMates, MicroMates and Unimates, as well as to the various 'dummy' knuckle couplers sold by B-mann and LL. You do have to work them onto Unimates, though.

mecgp7

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Re: ER Models Sharks front Couplers
« Reply #3 on: October 05, 2013, 10:16:13 AM »
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Dick,
Congrats on finding the sharks ;). I emailed you how I put the front coupler on. I used the MTL 1015/1016 with the long coupler box (whichever the right number is).
Cut the front coupler arm from the truck. The front of the chassis is plastic so I drilled a hole and mounted the coupler box directly to the chassis. It takes about three shims on top of the coupler box to get it to the right height.
You might get away with the shorter coupler box, but I have found that I get less uncoupling/derailment issues on body mounted couplers (on locos) if I use the longer one.

I think I'll follow your lead on the rear couplers. Unimates. They were seldom ever run separately or elephant style.

rschaffter

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Re: ER Models Sharks front Couplers
« Reply #4 on: October 05, 2013, 11:26:53 PM »
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Hi Dick,

Here's my tutorial on adding bodymount couplers and DCC... 

http://z11.invisionfree.com/N_Scale_Talk/index.php?showtopic=278
Cheers,
Rod Schaffter

absnut

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Re: ER Models Sharks front Couplers
« Reply #5 on: October 06, 2013, 12:21:04 AM »
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Thanks, Clint and Rod. Rod, yours is the article I remember reading some time ago.  :facepalm:

LV LOU

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Re: ER Models Sharks front Couplers
« Reply #6 on: October 06, 2013, 08:15:57 AM »
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 I got so sick of trying to find those D&H sharks,I just painted a set.Bought them when they were 25 bucks a set,now I have two extra chassis for my CNJ Babyfaces,LOL!!

Alwyn Cutmore

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Re: ER Models Sharks front Couplers
« Reply #7 on: October 09, 2013, 03:52:03 PM »
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Hi Dick,
Send me a PM with an address where I can send you a couple of castings that will fill the pilot as well as giving you the coupler mount.
Regards
Al
Al Cutmore
Slobbering Pennsy Shark Nose Freak
Australia