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... I measured my MY gauge. It is right at 0.225". The MT instructions state that the centerline should be 0.216" off the rail head. Which falls within prototype height. My gauge measures 0.225" off the rail head, but that could be due to teh casting as well. So it must be the Atlas pilot is just off a bit to not allow a scale coupler pocket to be fitted. HMMM, just an observation. Not complaining about anything.
Actually, I measure in millimeters because it is more precise, and I use the #1015 box as the housing. Coupler head is 5.5mm over the rail top, and the top of the #1015 coupler box is 7mm for the standard shank and 5.6mm for the offset shank.
There should be enough room in the Atlas pilot to slide in an MTL #1015 spacer, which should drop the coupler head down to .216". The MTL spacers also will work with the Atlas #23015 coupler boxes if you're still using Accu-Mates.
Just curious. Why is measuring in millimeters more precise than measuring in mils?
This is where I find the problem to be with Atlas. Coupler pockets. The Atlas coupler is an offset shank coupler. Not as offset as the Kato coupler, but offset. At least the one they use on the C628/630. When I put an MT 1015 box into the pilot, the coupler center line is 0.020" lower than where it should be. Putting a spacer in there will only lower it more. In order to get the MT coupler centered at the correct height is to have a 0.010" lid on it. Tried it and it does not work well, The lid has no support and collapses. I cannot get anything but an Atlas coupler in an Atlas box in there. I had the same issue wit the GP38. I put in a 1015 and the coupler is 0.020" lower than where is should be.
Use the offset #2001/2004 coupler in the #1015 box. Sounds as if that is the issue.
I guess I'm confused then. If you inserted #2004 couplers in a #1015 box and used the #1015 shim on the Alco, wouldn't that get the coupler centerline to where you want it?
I guess I'm confused then. If you inserted #2004 couplers in a #1015 box and used the #1015 shim on the Alco, wouldn't that get the coupler center line to where you want it?
I work smaller than those numbers and work digitally for the most part, and I deal with European and Asian contractors, so I prefer to work in mm. As an example: it's much easier to work with etched metal thicknesses as being .30, .20 and .05 mm instead of .012, .008 and .002 inches respectively, especially when dealing with the half-etches.