Printing Track Plans... What are some other options?

[DKS]

A 100% sized .jpg must take up quite a large amount of memory, would it be too large to email?

.jpg files are highly compressed. No problems emailing them.

[kalbert]

Draw the 6" or 3" grid on the foam (it's only a HCD!).
Transfer the track from the plan, but really only the key turnout placements.
Everything else should flow from the actual track, not the trackplan.
More "happy accidents" happen that way, as well 

I'd vote this way too. Laying out a grid and putting the turnouts where they go lets the rest of the track flow as needed and look more natural. You'll find it difficult to try to make real world track match up exactly right to your plan, no matter how accurately drawn it just doesn't work that way!

[DKS]

I'd vote this way too. Laying out a grid and putting the turnouts where they go lets the rest of the track flow as needed and look more natural. You'll find it difficult to try to make real world track match up exactly right to your plan, no matter how accurately drawn it just doesn't work that way!

Actually, it can be drawn with very similar natural flowing curves, if you use the software appropriately. Plus, the software can prevent you from accidentally making curves smaller than the desired minimum radius.

[VonRyan]

Actually, it can be drawn with very similar natural flowing curves, if you use the software appropriately. Plus, the software can prevent you from accidentally making curves smaller than the desired minimum radius.

Which I why I'm looking to invest in having the track plan printed. I'm trying to insure that I at least don't make any major mistakes with the trackwork so once it is done I can attend to getting the streets and other details flushed out.

-Cody F.

[mark.hinds]

Which I why I'm looking to invest in having the track plan printed. I'm trying to insure that I at least don't make any major mistakes with the trackwork so once it is done I can attend to getting the streets and other details flushed out.

-Cody F.

I am a proponent of the "draw the final plan on the door" school.  However you do it, though, make sure you have easements for your curves. 

MH

[VonRyan]

I am a proponent of the "draw the final plan on the door" school.  However you do it, though, make sure you have easements for your curves. 

MH

I can't tell from the plan as to whether or not easements are included, and either way I'm not too concerned seeing as how the layout is meant for slow running, heavy on switching.
Whichever way it is, I trust DKS to have done what is best for the plan, which is finally becoming more and more of a reality.


-Cody F.

[Nilmadic]

Yard stick with a pin or nail at one end and notches at the various radi you want...  BAM

And....Boom Goes the Dynamite.

[mark.hinds]

I can't tell from the plan as to whether or not easements are included, and either way I'm not too concerned seeing as how the layout is meant for slow running, heavy on switching.
Whichever way it is, I trust DKS to have done what is best for the plan, which is finally becoming more and more of a reality.

-Cody F.

Easements in a model railroad are mostly for visual effect, and have little to do with the speed at which you run your trains.  I assume you care about visual effect, since you are planning to use code 55 rail.  However, if as you imply, DKS did your plan, you should be good.

MH

[DKS]

Easements in a model railroad are mostly for visual effect, and have little to do with the speed at which you run your trains.  I assume you care about visual effect, since you are planning to use code 55 rail.  However, if as you imply, DKS did your plan, you should be good.

Or not. I don't always incorporate easements into smaller plans, but it's easy enough to make that change... if I only knew which plan we're talking about here...

[VonRyan]

Or not. I don't always incorporate easements into smaller plans, but it's easy enough to make that change... if I only knew which plan we're talking about here...

The industrial-port layout with the out-and-back from a behind-layout staging yard to a small car-float.

The plan is fine as it stands, and no easements is probably better to allow for more use of the space for industries and other buildings.

In case you were wondering, I haven't asked for a full sized file yet because for some reason I'm having trouble receiving emails. I'm glad I caught the problem since soon I'll be dealing with all manners of things coming to my inbox to do with my Eagle Scout project.


-Cody F.

[robert3985]

I'm not familiar with the software your trackplan is drawn on, and I do all of my track planning using Cadrail, but this is what I do when I want to print out a track plan, or anything else that requires precision when joining up the 8.5" X 11" sheets of paper I've printed the plan on.

After I've got my trackplan, or my subroadbed plan finished, I divide it up into 8.5" X 11" sections by creating a figure that is a rectangle exactly that size.  I copy it as many times as I need and drag it over my track plan, and make sure that I overlap the paper sheet sized figures by at least 1", and sometimes more depending on the characteristics of my track plan.

Then, I number each sheet in a progressive, logical manner with big numbers.

Then, I create another figure that's a registration mark, which is basically a big X with a smaller circle centered on the X, and I copy that, and place two of them where each sheet overlaps the adjacent sheet.

Then, I print out the sheets at 100%, making sure that I include every registration mark in the overlaps.

After they're all printed out, I use my big light table to line up the registration marks for a precision assembly of sheets of paper with my drawing precisely lined up. 

I doubt that you have a light table, so, you could use a big window to see through the paper to line up the registration marks.  Use Scotch Magic Tape to tape them together.

Here's a closeup of taped together sheets with a subroadbed drawing on it, and registration marks:


Here's a shot of the trimmed 8.5" X 11" sheets taped and trimmed with both registration marks and numbers:


Since you're laying this up on a HCD, I'd mark a grid on your original drawing (before it's been converted to a JPG) that represents 8.5" X 11" sheets of paper that are overlapped 1"...add the registration marks in the overlaps so the registration marks will print, number the sheets in a logical manner, and print each grid, one at a time...making sure to include all of the registration marks on each sheet.  Should be pretty easy to tape them together since they'll be straight and in line with each other. 

I'm sure you could figure out a way to print 100% sections of the big JPG, especially if DKS puts in a "standard" such as a line that's exactly 6" long in his drawing somewhere.  That way you can make sure the prints coming out of your printer are exactly on.

Maybe it's too complicated since you're not versed in DKS's track planning software, but anybody else here who wants to print out track plans or benchwork stuff can use my method easily if they're using  track planning CAD software.

[DKS]

AnyRail can make your life much easier: it automatically prints registration marks at all four corners when tiling the plan across letter-sized paper. It also automatically numbers the sheets with row/column numbers (plus a date/time stamp so you can avoid mix-ups should you print it more than once). Optionally, it will print gridlines according to a user-specified spacing, and the user can draw any kind of registration or other marking anywhere on the plan, using a snap-to-grid function if desired.

[DKS]

The industrial-port layout with the out-and-back from a behind-layout staging yard to a small car-float.

Ah, this one--



Not much call for easements in this case, although there are "poor man's easements" in it--where the curves terminate at switches, which are (effectively) larger radii.

[VonRyan]

It looks like having the whole thing printed out as one sheet at FedEx/Kinkos is my best option since it turns out someone who owes me a favor has a family member who works at a nearby FedEx/Kinkos location so if at the very least I'll get a good sized discount.

I also figured out my email situation... I set a couple yahoogroups settings to receive not as many emails, and I forgot that I even did it. 


-Cody F.

[robert3985]

AnyRail can make your life much easier: it automatically prints registration marks at all four corners when tiling the plan across letter-sized paper. It also automatically numbers the sheets with row/column numbers (plus a date/time stamp so you can avoid mix-ups should you print it more than once). Optionally, it will print gridlines according to a user-specified spacing, and the user can draw any kind of registration or other marking anywhere on the plan, using a snap-to-grid function if desired.

Well then...there ya go!  Probably wouldn't work for some of my weird shaped printouts, such as what I posted here with both vertical and horizontal rectangles.  Sounds like well thought out software.

Maybe I'll have to give AnyRail a try...just for chits and giggles