Author Topic: Gluing Windows  (Read 1477 times)

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mightypurdue22

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Gluing Windows
« on: March 12, 2013, 05:01:17 PM »
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I've been recently working on a few DPM buildings and am getting around to gluing windows in place.  I'm getting some hazing on a couple of windows from the CA glue, as careful as I am not to get it close to the window opening.  Any recommendations for glue that will adhere fairly quickly and won't haze the windows?

Dave

rogergperkins

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Re: Gluing Windows
« Reply #1 on: March 12, 2013, 05:15:26 PM »
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Try Testor Clear Parts Cement & Window Marker.  Not aggressive when applied to window glazing.

wazzou

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Re: Gluing Windows
« Reply #2 on: March 12, 2013, 05:15:54 PM »
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Canopy Glue, Micro Krystal Clear, Ailene's Tacky Glue...
Bryan

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Dave Schneider

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Re: Gluing Windows
« Reply #3 on: March 12, 2013, 05:42:14 PM »
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All of the other suggestions are good. I have used Future floor wax as I had some one hand. Plus is makes your windows shiny clean!

Best wishes, Dave
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peteski

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Re: Gluing Windows
« Reply #4 on: March 12, 2013, 06:16:05 PM »
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Superglue hazing usually occurs when the glue is left uncured for a period of time. The fumes settle on surfaces creating haze.  I'm a superglue and accelerator addict (mostly because it greatly speeds up assembly  time) and once the glue is set (using the accelerator), then there will be no hazing.  Epoxy also does not haze the clear parts. Or you can use a soldering iron to "spot-weld" the clear plastic windows to the inside of the wall.  I've done that too.
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Alaska Railroader

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Re: Gluing Windows
« Reply #5 on: March 12, 2013, 09:23:13 PM »
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If you were to put a tiny bit of glue on the inside back first, where your window will touch, you can avoid the mess. It doesn't take much glue. I find that the less CA I use the better the finish.

mmagliaro

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Re: Gluing Windows
« Reply #6 on: March 13, 2013, 12:50:25 AM »
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Two words: Walthers Goo.
Just keep it away from the visible portion of the window "glass", and it's magic.  Just a few drops in the corners and
perhaps along the extreme edges.  It is tacky, so it holds the glass in place right away,
and after years and years, it remains flexible.  I've never had one plop out of the inside of a building (like
I have with tape, plastic cement, ACC, and so many others I can't remember them all).


Flagler

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Re: Gluing Windows
« Reply #7 on: March 13, 2013, 09:22:12 AM »
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Use testers glue.....the stuff you paint on & then place the window in place.You can turn it upside down in less then a min.
If you have paint in the way it will need to be cleaned off.

FYI...   this is acetone not glue..   It melts the plastic and when it dries the parts are welded together

peteski

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Re: Gluing Windows
« Reply #8 on: March 13, 2013, 05:37:56 PM »
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Use testers glue.....the stuff you paint on & then place the window in place.You can turn it upside down in less then a min.
If you have paint in the way it will need to be cleaned off.

FYI...   this is acetone not glue..   It melts the plastic and when it dries the parts are welded together

Testors liquid cement is mostly MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone), not acetone.  But acetone and other solvents (like Methylene Chloride and even some citrus fruit extracts) melt and weld the plastic, then evaporate.

Assuming that the clear windows material is styrene (not PET) then a solvent type welding cement will work.

Using Goo is a good idea but it uses acetone as solvent. Depending on how much Goo is applied and how thin the building's wall is, the acetone can soften the plastic and possibly even create a depression on the other side of the wall.  Sometimes the damage does not show up until days or weeks later.
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jimmo

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Re: Gluing Windows
« Reply #9 on: March 14, 2013, 11:39:57 AM »
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My two cents as a professional model maker is Aleene's Original Tacky Glue. I used this glue for the first time by default as I was out of what I had used previously (either CA or Testors window stuff). My wife had brought home a box of crafts supplies from her school. I found this little bottle of Aleene's while was rummaging through all the glitter and whatnot. I had heard of it in the model press and decided to give it a try. I have been using it ever since (primarily to secure clear window material in structures). The inexpensive 4 oz. bottle I purchased after using up all the initial 1 oz. bottle has lasted me quite a while. It takes very little to secure window glazing, so I expect it to last me another couple of years.
James R. Will

Scott Lupia

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Re: Gluing Windows
« Reply #10 on: March 14, 2013, 01:42:22 PM »
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Odorless CA will not haze the windows.  Those fumes have a nasty habit of finding your fingerprints on the glazing.  I use the odorless when I assemble passenger car windows, caboose windows... etc.  It is fast since it is CA and it also won't eat foam too!

scott lupia
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Re: Gluing Windows
« Reply #11 on: March 14, 2013, 02:44:06 PM »
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I like Micro Krystal Kleer for the job.

DKS

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Re: Gluing Windows
« Reply #12 on: March 14, 2013, 03:29:10 PM »
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My personal preference for attaching glazing is thick CA. I'll use just a tiny dab in each corner of the glazing sheet. The only time I've noticed fogging is if I've used too much CA.
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wm3798

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Re: Gluing Windows
« Reply #13 on: March 14, 2013, 05:38:25 PM »
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Clear gloss Mod Podge works well too.  If it gets on the window, it dries clear so no harm no foul!
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CrazyLynx

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Re: Gluing Windows
« Reply #14 on: March 14, 2013, 05:41:37 PM »
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For DPM kits I've had good luck so far simply cutting the clear sheet to cover part of the interior wall, and use double-sided tape on non-visible portions.  No glue running over and glazing your windows that way.
Otherwise I do like Krystal Clear too.