2-10-2 frame build and Brass Castings

[superturbine]

The N scale market still does not have an appropriate driver sized 2-10-2.  A number of us have gone thru the pain staking process of adding bearing boxes, drivers and extending rods to the Kato Mikado.  This option leaves a lot of people (without the frame milling skills)wanting for an ATSF 3800 class 2-10-2, SP F class, and UP TTT... Not to mention you Pennsy guys.  A number of others are currently working on 2-10-2 frames to be made by different methods and I hope thier work continues. So, here begins the journey to build and cast in brass (numerous) castings of the Kato Mikado based 2-10-2's.  The work on the master frame began this morning.
.
Frame milled and driver boxed added..... Yes Pete the frame comes apart!

Engine is up and running and runs really well.  It will be test run thru numerous trial and taken apart and cast in urethane for lost urethane to brass castings.


Jason Smith
Tomball Locomotive Works

 

[Cajonpassfan]

Jason,
making  a casting is a great idea, sure beats "stretching"the frames! You KNOW I'm interested!
Otto K.

[keeper]

Would this work for this steamer?

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=459637

Thomas

[superturbine]

Would this work for this steamer?

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=459637

Thomas

Correction... This option leaves a lot of people (without the frame milling skills)wanting for an ATSF 3800 class 2-10-2, SP F class, and UP TTT, LS&I 2-10-2... Not to mention you Pennsy guys.

P.S.- on the LS& I unsual, but cool sand domes.  Thanks for posting pic

[mike_lawyer]

Wow, can't wait for this project to see fruition!  I've done the extending process, and it takes a lot of precious time to do it right. 

Whenever you get this done, I'll probably purchase 2-3 of them for kitbashes.  I'm really looking forward to your excellent work on this!

How much do you anticipate the final frames will cost?

Mike

[Hornwrecker]

Correction... This option leaves a lot of people (without the frame milling skills)wanting for an ATSF 3800 class 2-10-2, SP F class, and UP TTT, LS&I 2-10-2... Not to mention you Pennsy guys.

P.S.- on the LS& I unsual, but cool sand domes.  Thanks for posting pic

... and the Erie RR R class 2-10-2. The R-1 had two sets of dual sand domes.

http://www.steamlocomotive.com/santafe/?page=err
http://www.steamlocomotive.com/santafe/erie4123-laws.jpg

[chessie system fan]

You've got my attention on this.  Any idea what the shrinkage will be?  And I'm curious about the cost as well.

[Loren Perry]

Jason, you KNOW I'll buy two of these from you! Hope it works out!

[keeper]

As a side note, it seems that the LS&I had three 2-10-2 according to this website:

http://www.steamlocomotive.com/santafe/?page=lv

Thomas

[mike_lawyer]

I believe the total shrinkage rate will be 2-3% at most.  Cost should only be in the 30 dollar range.  But the there are still a number of barriers to cross.

This is awesome.  Just curious - how do you account for shrinkage, and will that throw off the tolerances?

[CodyO]

Totally awesome Jason! Ill be sure to grab at least 2!

Then us Pennsy guys will be begging you for a proper 2-10-2 shell!

[towl1996]

... Not to mention you Pennsy guys.

Does this mean we may see an I1 at some point in the not too distant future?  If so, I'd be in for 2 or 3. Nice work. BTW how's the H9/10 project coming along?

[SkipGear]

Jason,
 Definitely interested. Could make life much easier in the future. One comment though, it seems like the rear frame screw relocation would put it right in the middle of the cab area. I left the rear screw location alone when I did mine and only needed to round some corners for clearance. Where the screw is on the mock up would be hanging either outside or smack in the middle of the cab on the version of the 2-10-2 that I did.



I like to do cab interiors whenever possible and I think that screw may get in the way...

[superturbine]

Yeah, that's the one thing I am not sure about.  I could mill the boxes and put them back in the stock position.  It doest matter because the frame will become urethane then brass.  On other concern of mine with regards to thr box location is decoder in the boiler installations, my frame takes up room.  Part of my reasoning for it's location is... that I know there are a variety of casting this frame could be used on and I would rather loose a backhand that cause a running problem.  What if the frame were used on a 2-10-0 don't you think the boxed would show or say s 2-10-4 it could cause problems with the trailing truck.  Perhaps I am wrong.  What do you think. 

[SkipGear]

The only reason the stock screw blob is so wide is for weight. Kato had the room so they used the space to make the loco heavier and ballance better. Going to a 2-10-? Weight is not as big of an issue so you can make it much narrower, or even use a smaller screw and keep it pretty much in the same space without causing any problems. On a 2-10-0, it just becomes part of the ashpan and other appliances under the cab and isn't an issue at all. A 2-10-4 may need more clearance but it just may end up between the axles of the trailing truck so again, not that big of an issue. Since everything is pretty much going to made fresh in a sense, a smaller blob with a smaller screw just under what would be the cab floor would be fine. I had even considered making a plastic clip that held the frame halves together in the back if the screw was going to interphere with the trailing truck too much. Kato seems to be making that work with their new screwless frames on the diesels.