Gooderham Slab Side Hopper Build

[BCR 570]

I have received and seen quite a few inquiries regarding the new slab side hopper cars from Geoff Gooderham, so I thought I would start a thread documenting my build, and others are welcome to show theirs here too.

I will be building the NSC eight round hatch riveted side version operated by the PGE/BCR and CN (there is also a six square hatch version operated by the CPR).  This is how the kit comes, except that I received mine with the gates separate as I wanted to modify them:




The model is a solid centre core with bottom, ends, sides and roof laminated on, and separate parts for the gates added underneath.  The PGE/BCR cars did not have the gate extensions between them, so my first task was to trim back the gates for a closer representation:




The next step was to get the trucks and couplers mounted.  Geoff engineered the car for Micro-Trains truck mounted couplers, but I wanted body mount couplers.  I had hoped to use Micro-Trains #1023 couplers but they didn't fit without fouling the trucks, so I switched to the #1027s.  I estimated that the couplers would require a shim pad .020" thick for correct height, so I cut some shim pads 4'-0" scale feet long from .020" x .188" strip styrene.  These were glued to the underside of the end platforms with ACC.  I then drilled and tapped the holes for the coupler mounting screws.

I selected Micro-Trains #1001 Bettendorf trucks and substituted Fox Valley #3301 low profile metal wheels for additional weight.  The trucks are to be mounted with #2-56 x 1/8" screws, so I drilled and tapped the holes for the truck mounting screws accordingly.  All of this work is best done with the car upside down and before the running board and brake wheel are added!  Here is the first car with holes for trucks and couplers drilled and tapped, and the parts ready for installation:




And here is the car after the trucks and couplers are installed:




With the trucks and couplers installed, it was time for a coupler height check:




Thats it for tonight.  In my next post I will cover the running board, end brake platform and brake wheel.


Tim

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Wait, that ladder detail in cast resin? Yikes!

[lock4244]

Shall be watching this thread with interest, Tim.

[Puddington]

Yes; I, too, will be watching this thread and, by weeks end, hopefully contributing as my 6 hoppers are in the capable hands (OMG, I actually said that...... ) of Canada Post and are as I type faithfully speeding their way from Vancouver to Peterborough via New Zealand or some other route of most resistance.....

BTW; CP had both types that Geoff has made, the six square hatch and the eight round hatch so I'll be using both; plus one TH&B and a PGE as well.....

[bbussey]

In addition to CP ... CN and TH&B also had the earlier prototype square-hatch version.

Geoff may have designed the model for MTL trucks, but it appears he didn't allow for the offset bolster hole.  You can see in the side photo that the truck doesn't align with the bolster.

[Puddington]

Geoff may have designed the model for MTL trucks, but it appears he didn't allow for the offset bolster hole.  You can see in the side photo that the truck doesn't align with the bolster.

Hmm......interesting observation.......

[BCR751]

A trick I use to keep the truck centered on the 2-56 screw is to use a piece of 1/8" Evergreen styrene tubing, Part # 224. Use the 2-56 tap to thread approximately 3/4" of tubing.  Then, cut it on a NWSL Chopper so it's just a bit higher than the bolster.  Now thread it onto the 2-56 screw and insert this assembly into the bolster hole.  Tighten the screw so it's snug against the styrene.  This will allow free movement of the truck and keep it centered on the bolster.  Works much better than the little chunk of delrin supplied in the truck package by MTL.

I didn't see anything like this in the photos so thought I would pass this tip along.  Works for me.

Doug

[Puddington]

UNBRIDDLED EXCITEMENT TURNED TO PROFOUND SADNESS....

That describes what just happened to me as I went to the mail box and founf both my package from Central Hobbies containing the 6 slab side hoppers I ordered and the Plano package with the walk ways for them.....

Upon opening the hopper package I was giddy to see these beautiful, signature Canadian cars but that giddiness quickly turned to anger and then sadness when I realized that each of the six cars I have received is damaged, some beyond repair....

Whoever packed the cars made sure to carefully use bubble wrap to make sure the medium sized Micro Train boxes did not move; alas they didn't put anything in the jewel box so this fragile little car with it's delicate ladders, sturrups and cross beams bounced around inside the jewel case from Vancouver to Peterborough... one car has a totally detached and destroyed end, all are missing sturrups (found somewhere in the jewel case...) and all have other pieces bent and dingged.....

I guess I will call Central Hobbies to see what they can do about at least the one destroyed car; I will have to do micro surgery on the others.... they are beautiful cars but they need to be packed properly for shipping....

Talk about taking the wind out of your sails..... 

[wcfn100]

I guess I will call Central Hobbies to see what they can do about at least the one destroyed car; I will have to do micro surgery on the others....

F that. Make them replace all the cars.  I'm planning on getting a Slab hopper and one of the Dragon cement cars, but if this is how they ship, then forget it.

Jason

[BCR751]

One of the many (in my opinion) issues surrounding resin kits.  Build them out of styrene and those issues will quickly go away.  Difficult for the home-based kit producer but, just sayin'........

Doug

[lock4244]

Great. Can't wait to see what mine look like on arrival 

[bbussey]

Resin kits can be packaged so that they don't break.  The effort has to be exerted to pack them carefully, simple as that.

[Puddington]

Yes; the entire issue was that the model slid around for 3000 km. Had their been adequate interior protection (foam, paper etc...) the models would have been just fine. An easy fix for Central and I rather suspect that they rushed to get them sent out due to getting calls from guys like me saying "are they here yet".....

[BCR 570]

Mike:

Sorry to hear about your misfortune.  I called Central and mentioned this to Hal; he understands the issue.  He suggests you call them to report the matter, then send them back and they will be replaced.

Tim

[BCR 570]

More progress on my first car this evening.

Having worked on the car upside down to install the trucks and couplers and then removed them temporarily, the next step was to install the running board.  Plano Products offers a #250 etched running board for a 50' boxcar which can be shortened, or you could use their 40' version which would have to be stretched (meaning you would use two per car).  Geoff suggested cutting the running board so that the joint would line up with one of the running board supports cast into the roof of the car.  I determined which exact support would accommodate the joint and marked it with a dot on either side.  I then calculated where to make the cuts and marked the locations.  I believe that I removed 13 sections (ie. the open rectangles in the grid pattern).

I used photo etch shears to cut the running board at the two locations.  I then gripped the end of each section with smooth jaw pliers and filed the ends back to the joint location with a fine cut needle file.  After this I butted the two sections together to verify a smooth and square joint. 

While I had the photo etch shears and fine cut needle file handy, I took a BLMA #403 Type A end coupler platform and cut off the mounting pin.  I then cut it in half and cleaned up the end on the portion to be mounted to the car as an end brake platform. 

I took this photograph to illustrate the steps involved in preparing the running board and end platform:




A final step in preparing the running board sections was required.  I re-gripped them across from the transverse sections and bent them down slightly to match the roof profile.  After a quick test fit, I glued the two sections to the roof of the car:




With the running board in place, I turned my attention to the end of the car.  The supports for the end platform are cast in place so it is easy to glue in place.  I chose the Type A platform as it has the notch for the vertical brake lines.

Geoff envisaged using a Micro-Trains brake wheel for the car, and these are available in a package of one dozen (part #499 05 901 - formerly #1088).  You could also mount one of the numerous etched metal brake wheels available from BLMA, Gold Medal, JnJ, etc.  To mount the Micro-Trains brake wheel, I drilled a #61 hole through the pre-drill and glued it in place.  Here is a close-up of the 'B' end of the car with end platform and brake wheel in place:



In this photograph you can also see that I bent the top corner grab irons from Detail Associates .008" brass wire.  The locating holes for these are etched into the running board.  It is actually easier to mark the spots where to bend the wire on one of the running board sections while it is flat on the mat and not yet mounted to the car.  After bending a right angle in the brass wire, I lay it on top of the running board and mark the bending points with a fine tip Sharpie.  After bending down the leg at each end, I trim them quite short and try a test fit.  This is one of those operations where you want to make a whole bunch and then use the best.

And that it is it - my first car is ready for cleaning and painting.  I will move on with cars #2-5 this week and report back if I come up with any better ideas than what I have related here.  I will also throw car #1 into a train for a test run and see how it performs on the rails.

I hope these photographs will assist others with their build, and I look forward to seeing how others make out with their cars.


Tim