Author Topic: Pecos River Brass 4-6-4 Valve Gear  (Read 881 times)

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WinooskiRiver

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Pecos River Brass 4-6-4 Valve Gear
« on: February 11, 2013, 03:22:39 PM »
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I recently purchased a Pecos River Brass Santa Fe 4-6-4 (Final Rebuild) that was previously used but in good running condition. After fixing the x-connector to the drive shaft that kept popping out, I was testing the engine on my oval test track when the right-side valve gear came undone where the connecting rod and eccentric rod connect to the center driver. It seems that this is fastened to the drive wheel by a rivet and not a screw. If so, what is the best way to reattach it? I have tried to push it back in, but it doesn't go in. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. :?

Thanks,

WinooskiRiver

mmagliaro

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Re: Pecos River Brass 4-6-4 Valve Gear
« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2013, 04:14:41 PM »
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Can you take some close, sharp, photos of the problem area (and the other side, that is not popped out).
I'm a little confused when you say it "won't go in". So a picture would really help.

WinooskiRiver

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Re: Pecos River Brass 4-6-4 Valve Gear
« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2013, 11:23:58 AM »
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Unfortunately, I am so far unable to post the pictures you requested. The online posting manual states that this option is available to administrators and special members.

mmagliaro

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Re: Pecos River Brass 4-6-4 Valve Gear
« Reply #3 on: February 13, 2013, 11:45:49 AM »
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Oh, you must not have enough posts to be allowed to post photos?   You need to
upload your photos to a hosting site like photobucket.com.  Then, on the photos on that site, you can copy
a link string that looks like "", you paste that in here right in your post, and the photo will appear.

If you send me a PM, we can work it out for now so you can email me the photos and I'll post them if you are stuck.


peteski

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Re: Pecos River Brass 4-6-4 Valve Gear
« Reply #5 on: February 13, 2013, 04:52:55 PM »
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Max, this forum does not allow for uploading files or photos (ever).You need to host them elsewhere then just insert a link into your post. YOu know that.  ;)  I don't recall having to accumulate certain number of posts to be allowed to use the [ i m g ] [ / i m g ] capability.

Here is a tutorial (for WinooskiRiver).
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=26436.0

The crank pin looks to be sheared off at the wheel face (at least that is how I see it in that photo). That will be a difficult repair.  Maybe it can be pinned (but it will be difficult to drill into both pieces of the pin). Or maybe just drill the broken piece out of the driver then replace it with a new pin made from a brass rod. The eccentric woudl have to be unsoldered from the original pin and soldered to the new one.
« Last Edit: February 13, 2013, 04:56:58 PM by peteski »
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Mark.S+10

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Re: Pecos River Brass 4-6-4 Valve Gear
« Reply #6 on: February 13, 2013, 10:18:00 PM »
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I have to agree with Pete, the crank pin is sheared off.  I have a PRB 4-6-4 and the crank came unscrewed from the center driver.  I just screwed it back in and it's been fine ever since. 

Have fun, Mark

mmagliaro

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Re: Pecos River Brass 4-6-4 Valve Gear
« Reply #7 on: February 14, 2013, 02:17:41 AM »
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Okay, now that I can see the photo,

Peteski and Mark.S+10 have already observed that the pin is sheared off.  Yes, it is.

Peteski's suggestion about drilling and soldering is the best way to go.

I would use a pin vise to drill out the piece of the pin that is stuck in the wheel.   Unsolder the piece of rod that is still
stuck in the eccentric crank.   Choose a new piece of brass wire that will fit as snugly into the driver hole as you can
find.  Slip the eccentric crank over the tip of that wire and solder, and then insert the new pin through all the
other rods and into the driver hole.  You ought to be able to use a drop of 2-part epoxy or Loctite to make it hold fast.  It
really will help if your new wire fits snugly into the hole all on its own.

There are "cobble together" methods, like drilling an even finer hole into the two pieces of the broken pin, and splicing the
pin back together over that fine wire with some epoxy, but I wouldn't trust it.  You could also tap the hole for a 00-90
screw, put it all back together, and then use epoxy near the head of the screw to hold the eccentric crank in place, being careful
not to get any on the other rods under it.  But who knows if the epoxy would really last in a joint like that.

If you've got some old Rivarossi steam parts lying around, you can use the Riva 4-6-2 center driver threaded crankpin.
It will press into a hole in the driver, and then the inside of the pin itself is threaded. So you can
put your siderods and eccentric rod over it, and then put a screw in to tighten against the eccentric crank.   I wouldn't
worry about it having a relatively large screw head, since this engine appears to have those on the other drivers anyway.
It avoids having to solder, makes is easy to disassemble, and therefore makes it repairable if something like this ever breaks
again.

Personally, I'd go with the soldered wire route.  P.M. If you need help repairing it. It's not that
bad, probably a couple of hours' work.

Oh, and Peteski, yes, I know you can't post photos directly to the forum entries.  I worded it badly.  I just meant that maybe
there was some odd restriction on posting a photo with the [i m g] [/ i m g] tags when you don't have many posts,
which I didn't know about (which is clearly not the case).

« Last Edit: February 14, 2013, 02:19:57 AM by mmagliaro »

WinooskiRiver

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Re: Pecos River Brass 4-6-4 Valve Gear
« Reply #8 on: February 14, 2013, 09:39:30 AM »
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Tusen Tak! (Norske for one thousand thanks). This has been very helpful. I guess I now have my work cut out for me... but that is precisely the reason I enjoy modeling. :D

WinooskiRiver