The border of Insanity... Welsh Narrow Gauge in N-4mm

[robert3985]

I've decided that Nn3 is not suitable for modelling the 2ft 3in gauge railways of northern Wales. I've decided to go with 4mm gauge (exactly 2ft in 2FS) using code 40 rail (unless suitable code 30 with profile can be found... then perhaps)

I just figured that i'd let everyone know that i'm not settling for less than the best.

-Cody F.

Ever tried code 30 "ribbon rail"?  DKS uses some that's even shorter (can't remember what "code" it is), but, that small...even squinting and close up, I don't notice that it doesn't have a "rail" profile. 

Here are some photos of my friend Gregg Cudworth's code 30 Nn3 hand-laid trackage since a photo is worth a thousand words....




Since I took these photos a couple of years ago, Gregg has now weathered and ballasted some of his trackwork.  It's REALLY not noticeable now that there is no "rail" profile. 

However, Gregg is thinking about the lack, and is going to attempt fabricating a tool to put a fine, black line down the middle of the sides of his rail, to imply a shadow, which will imply a "rail" cross section.  When he does that, I'll take some photos for anybody who might be interested.

[peteski]

You can print direct to the transparencies:
https://picasaweb.google.com/ErieChris333/Etching

That is how I do it too. I use the Alps printer for a solid and very opaque black, with very very sharply defined edges.

[VonRyan]

Ever tried code 30 "ribbon rail"?  DKS uses some that's even shorter (can't remember what "code" it is), but, that small...even squinting and close up, I don't notice that it doesn't have a "rail" profile. 

Here are some photos of my friend Gregg Cudworth's code 30 Nn3 hand-laid trackage since a photo is worth a thousand words....




Since I took these photos a couple of years ago, Gregg has now weathered and ballasted some of his trackwork.  It's REALLY not noticeable now that there is no "rail" profile. 

However, Gregg is thinking about the lack, and is going to attempt fabricating a tool to put a fine, black line down the middle of the sides of his rail, to imply a shadow, which will imply a "rail" cross section.  When he does that, I'll take some photos for anybody who might be interested.

I choose the code 40 because of the rail profile and since I intend to have the trains at eye level  and seeing the rail profile is just another of those pedantic habits i have.

-Cody F.

[VonRyan]

Cody, that really is old-school!
But for making a decent looking N scale model, that might be too primitive.  I mean, drawing directly on a transparency. It would be very difficult to draw something like narrow-gauge N scale car photo-mask in 1:1 scale, directly on a transparency.

To repeat what has already been mentioned, the best way to do this is to draw the artwork larger (I used to do that at 400%) using black ink on a white piece of paper, then have it photographically reduced to 1:1 scale onto a clear high-contrast Black/White film.

But even at 400%, doing this by hand is so tedious. Computers make this task so much easier.  My recommendation would be to find a free vector-based drawing program (or even pick up an older version of something like Corel Draw, for 20-30 dollars) and start using it.   You're young guy who probably has been using computers since you were a baby.   Using a drawing program will probably be a second nature to you.

Vector-based graphic programs make the artwork design so much easier!  They allow for precisely sizing the artwork (and easily resizing or manipulating any objects), and they make drawing repeating patterns or duplicating objects very easy.   And most of the photoetched items will have repeating patterns on them.  Then you can accurately print the artwork at any scale (directly on a transparency if you wish).

You might also read through the info in https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=28254.0

We'll have to listen to some 8 Tracks or 45s some time.  (i own both)

I suppose i should learn to do it with a computer for the more complex stuff that may arrise.

How does one draw for laser cutting wood?

-Cody F.

[DKS]

Ever tried code 30 "ribbon rail"?  DKS uses some that's even shorter (can't remember what "code" it is), but, that small...even squinting and close up, I don't notice that it doesn't have a "rail" profile.

It's .025 tall, so "Code 25." I had it made so I could do really light rail in N scale, and also wound up using it to hand-lay Z scale track. Here's a turnout nearing completion--

How does one draw for laser cutting wood?

You can use just about any vector-based drawing program, such as CorelDraw. The process is actually pretty simple once you get the basics down.

[Dave V]

What happened to doing Pennsy in N scale?   

[peteski]

How does one draw for laser cutting wood?

-Cody F.

You use a vector-drawing program (like Corel Draw).  The same goes for cutters like a Silhouette.  For more specific details (like line width or color) you need to contact the company which will do the cutting.  So as you see, it is very beneficial to learn to use a vector-based drawing program.  Then there is of course 3D printing (which uses a more complex vector-based drawing program). 

[VonRyan]

What happened to doing Pennsy in N scale?   

Did I mention that I tend to have multiple things going at once...
I'm still vying for a B-mann consolidation chassis since I found out that I have lucrative contacts.

You use a vector-drawing program (like Corel Draw).  The same goes for cutters like a Silhouette.  For more specific details (like line width or color) you need to contact the company which will do the cutting.  So as you see, it is very beneficial to learn to use a vector-based drawing program.  Then there is of course 3D printing (which uses a more complex vector-based drawing program). 

I suppose you win in a sense.
As is, I probably will need to learn it as more complex things come to bare on me.

I figure that laser cutting will be better for things that would normally be wood anyway.
Let wood be wood, and metal be metal, more prototypical that way.

It could be worse.
I could be trying to replicate the Lynton & Barstaple railway... which has a gauge of 1' 11 1/8"
Or i could try doing Zm...

-Cody F.

[DKS]

It could be worse.
I could be trying to replicate the Lynton & Barstaple railway... which has a gauge of 1' 11 1/8"
Or i could try doing Zm...

Maine two-footers come to mind, something I'd always wanted to try. Closest I've come so far was handlaying a Zn3 switch--

[Chris333]

To laser cut wood you just draw lines in 2 colors. 1 color is for thru cut and the other color for etched cuts. So the border around a boxcar side would be a white line and the scribed siding boards would be red lines.  You have to leave short breaks in the white lines so the parts down blow away after they are cut. Make the gaps about as wide as the wood is thick.

I'll once again recommend switching to HO scale for this type of modeling.

[VonRyan]

To laser cut wood you just draw lines in 2 colors. 1 color is for thru cut and the other color for etched cuts. So the border around a boxcar side would be a white line and the scribed siding boards would be red lines.  You have to leave short breaks in the white lines so the parts down blow away after they are cut. Make the gaps about as wide as the wood is thick.

I'll once again recommend switching to HO scale for this type of modeling.

Eh, since i'm already in N scale, and doing UK modelling in northern Wales, I figure that it simply comes as and addition. It allows for interchange traffic on a combined layout/module as well as comprise a compact stand-alone layout.

That does sound quite easy though, and since usually laser cutting services charge by the minute, N-4mm makes for more wagons, less time.

Maine two-footers come to mind, something I'd always wanted to try. Closest I've come so far was handlaying a Zn3 switch--

 
Exquisite. Apparently in Germany, there is a decent amount of semi-commercial support for Zm modelling.
Actually the main reason behind my switching from "Nn3" to N-4mm is that 6.5mm track is more meter gauge than 3', and 4mm gauge in 2mm Finescale come out to exactly 2ft and 4.5mm being exactly 2'3" as on the Talyllyn Railway.
However, I may return to Nn3 to do some Irish 3-footers in the future. Already with a decent prototype in mind.


-Cody F.

[Wardie]

Maine two-footers come to mind, something I'd always wanted to try. Closest I've come so far was handlaying a Zn3 switch--

Have you ever handlaid an operating stub switch? To me that would be characteristic of Maine two foot trackwork. I know the SR&RL had some typical point rail turnouts, but it also had some stub switches, and if I recall correctly the Monson's switches were stub switches.

[Iain]

Z scale track scales out to about 41.5" in N, perfect for modelling the 42" gauge Dismal Swamp RR.  One of the header images shows one of my DSRR flat cars that I did several years ago.

Edit:  Here's the car in question:

[Iain]

Dismal Swamp trackage out in the swamp.

[DKS]

Have you ever handlaid an operating stub switch? To me that would be characteristic of Maine two foot trackwork. I know the SR&RL had some typical point rail turnouts, but it also had some stub switches, and if I recall correctly the Monson's switches were stub switches.

Yes, eons ago I handlaid a standard-gauge stub switch. In some ways it's easier than a pointed switch.