Author Topic: Code 55 Turnouts  (Read 3198 times)

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Scottl

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Re: Code 55 Turnouts
« Reply #15 on: January 25, 2013, 12:59:01 PM »
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I saw it too, but can't find the reference right now.  I will say, the proto87 frog and points are about $12 per turnout, but they make putting it together very easy.  I did not try it in n scale for a long time, but after doing it, I am quite convinced most people have the skills to do it.  It is definitely an option if you can't get what you want commercially.

Mark W

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Re: Code 55 Turnouts
« Reply #16 on: January 25, 2013, 07:30:14 PM »
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I spent 101 bucks at handlaidtrack.com last week and got a #8 point form tool, 3 bags of PC Board ties, and a bunch of rail and a file.  Spent over 100 bucks so got free shipping. 

For hand-laying turnouts, jigs are helpful but not necessary, however I consider the point form tool to be priceless!  With the tool I can shape rail for a full turnout in literally seconds, a couple minutes if I want to be precise.  Without, it would take a good 45 minutes + and the points would not be anything close to precise. 

Also, I find that you can use the #8 tool to build all turnouts from #4's to #10's.  Simply shape the frog rails to the #8 angle, then solder them together at the angle of the turnout.  9's and 10's need a little teasing as they need to come to slightly more of a point than the 8, but not much.  The point rails can be used for all angles as well.  Heck, you could even use the point angle for the frogs to make 11's - 14's or so. 

Anyways, I got my $101 order about 9 days ago, have built 9 turnouts so far, so already I'm saving money over the price of manufactured turnouts.  Time spent is kind of a zen exercise too. 
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Norway2112

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Re: Code 55 Turnouts
« Reply #17 on: January 25, 2013, 08:12:59 PM »
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I have been looking online and can't find the answer to this, and maybe they don't correlate like I'm imagining they do but.....how do I know what radius a turnout is, I have a 19" radius curve I would like to put a turnout in that allows a spur to go off straight from the middle of the curve without intterupting the radius.  Is there a stock turnout out there that can do this or come close, or does this sound like it would have to be hand laid?

robert3985

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Re: Code 55 Turnouts
« Reply #18 on: January 27, 2013, 12:07:17 AM »
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Fast Tracks PDF files, available free here: http://www.handlaidtrack.com/Fast-Tracks-N-Printable-Track-Templates-for-Turnouts-s/117.htm tells you the effective diverging radius of several turnouts. 

A #5 has a diverging radius (effective) of 14" and a #6 has a diverging radius (effective) of 23", so a turnout with an effective diverging radius of 19" would be about a #5.65 or so.

That help?

Zox

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Re: Code 55 Turnouts
« Reply #19 on: January 27, 2013, 12:35:17 AM »
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I have a 19" radius curve I would like to put a turnout in that allows a spur to go off straight from the middle of the curve without intterupting the radius.  Is there a stock turnout out there that can do this or come close, or does this sound like it would have to be hand laid?

Peco's double-curved turnouts are 18- and 36-inch radius, so if the siding's going to the outside of the curve that could work for you.
Rob M., a.k.a. Zox
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Norway2112

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Re: Code 55 Turnouts
« Reply #20 on: January 27, 2013, 12:47:03 AM »
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Thanks a lot Zox, in my tunnel vision of looking only at Atlas Code 55 track I didn't even look at the Peco stuff.  I know I'll have to do a little filing to make the Atlas track mate to the peco switch, but using the Peco curved turnout is the perfect solution, I'll just lay the curve as an 18" radius instead of 19".

robert3985

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Re: Code 55 Turnouts
« Reply #21 on: January 27, 2013, 12:48:06 AM »
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For all you who think you have to have expensive jigs and fixtures to properly make turnouts, or that it's going to take ten times as long to make turnouts if you don't use jigs and fixtures, I beg to totally disagree with you.

One of the big advantages of making your own turnouts and everything that goes on 'em (frogs, points, guard rails, stock rails, throwbars, etc.) is that it costs about $2.75 per turnout (#5 thru #7).  You start throwing in a jig for every frog, a jig for every turnout and pretty soon, you've got several hundred dollars invested in very expensive jigs and fixtures that you really don't need.

However, if you want to spend that kind of money for 'em, more power to you!  Just don't say that they're necessary to make excellent, consistent turnouts.

Also, you start buying components such as etched or cast frogs, turnout superdetail frets, tri-planed closure points and the price per turnout gets really expensive really fast.  I've used Proto87 Stores N-scale detail parts and a fully detailed N-scale turnout using Andy's parts runs over 30 bucks for a #8, not including the rail, PCB ties, solder, flux, investment cast switch stand, or Tortoise underneath.  However, I get a fabulously detailed model that is perfect for my foreground scenes where I'll be taking ultra closeups of rolling stock and motive power.  Nothing commercially available even comes close to the depth of detail Andy's parts will allow in N-scale...but, it's expensive, and it greatly increases the build time per turnout.

I build "basic" turnouts in about 1.5 hours.  That's with no commercial detail parts except maybe tri-planed closure points.  I prefer to make my own frogs as Proto87 Stores' etched ones take about twice as long for me to solder together, and then...the railheads are about half the width they should be for Code55 rail.  Adding just the tri-planed closure points adds around $10 to the turnout cost.  If I could make 'em myself, I would, but I haven't invested the time to figure that out yet.

Instead of buying a frog filing jig (for each number of turnout), I have scribed various angles on my tool rest on my bench grinder that correspond to various numbers of turnouts (#4, #6, #7, #8, #10, #12)...three angles on each side of the grinding wheel.  Needless to say, my fine wheel on my bench grinder removes material VERY fast...I would guess much faster than a bastard file on a piece of rail clamped in a jig.

However, more power to all of you who roll your own.  It is (for many of us) an extremely fulfilling part of this hobby...with or without commercial jigs and fixtures.

robert3985

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Re: Code 55 Turnouts
« Reply #22 on: January 27, 2013, 01:01:25 AM »
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Thanks a lot Zox, in my tunnel vision of looking only at Atlas Code 55 track I didn't even look at the Peco stuff.  I know I'll have to do a little filing to make the Atlas track mate to the peco switch, but using the Peco curved turnout is the perfect solution, I'll just lay the curve as an 18" radius instead of 19".

Ya gotta be careful with assuming that commercially built turnouts have the radii they're supposed to have if built to prototype specs.  Atlas C-55 turnouts ALL have smaller diverging radii than if you built them yourself to proper spec's.  This cuts down on the overall length of the turnouts, but it also makes them not look prototypical to those of us who look at track closely.

Other manufacturers who list the diverging radii of their turnouts leave little to guess at.  Maybe Atlas doesn't do it because it would make their erroneous build spec's easier to spot.  Probably they really don't give half a damn...take 'em or leave 'em since they're really the only game in town if you want turnouts that look pretty close to US prototypes (except for ME #6's), and Peco turnouts DO NOT look close to US prototypes because of their big, short ties spaced way far apart...which will look odd if you're using Atlas 55 flex.

But, if you don't care what they look like, then by all means, use Peco.

reinhardtjh

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Re: Code 55 Turnouts
« Reply #23 on: January 27, 2013, 06:40:46 AM »
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