Atlas PS-1 boxcars in hand! (INNER HEIGHT CLARIFICATION)

[peteski]

Here are couple more comparisons using Mark's photo.

On this one I tried to line up the top of the roof (not the roofwalk).  This shows where the extra height is.



This photo is aligned on the rail top.  This is to compare ride height.



Draw your own conclusions. 

[Sokramiketes]

Yeah, if only somebody pointed this out two years ago and then this year started a thread about it including modifying a car to show how far off it is.

Jason

I remember the thread but can't remember if you used a different door or just moved the MTL one down... did you decide the MTL door was OK or short?

[wcfn100]

I remember the thread but can't remember if you used a different door or just moved the MTL one down... did you decide the MTL door was OK or short?

I moved the door track down to see how bad it was and then I made new door to see how it looked.  After that I gave up on the car so I never bothered measuring it.  I should have be tipped off to the height issue a year earlier when I lowered a car to the prototype and it looked ridiculous. 



The car on the left is stock, the car on the right was lowered to where the underside of the running board matched the prototype (to eliminate the thickness of the rb).


Jason

[nkalanaga]

Actually, I'm one who ISN'T going to run out and replace all of my MT boxcars, for several reasons:

After spending a lot of time lowering them, they look fine running in a train.

Being on a strict budget, they're paid for, and have been for years.  Why spend money on replacing them that could go for items I don't have?

Many of them are in paint schemes not available on anyone else's cars, including those I've lettered.  In most cases, the decals/dry transfers are no longer made.

So, I'll live with the door track being wrong, and keep running trains.

[MichaelWinicki]

Actually, I'm one who ISN'T going to run out and replace all of my MT boxcars, for several reasons:

After spending a lot of time lowering them, they look fine running in a train.

Being on a strict budget, they're paid for, and have been for years.  Why spend money on replacing them that could go for items I don't have?

Many of them are in paint schemes not available on anyone else's cars, including those I've lettered.  In most cases, the decals/dry transfers are no longer made.

So, I'll live with the door track being wrong, and keep running trains.

You've made some good points.

Yeah, cars that you've already lowered, you might as well hang on too.

And I have a few MT PS1's that I'll keep and at least file down the bolsters, because the cars aren't available elsewhere.

[BN1970]

I finally got my Atlas PS1 in the mail (I am on the West coast).  I'll add a couple of points about the wheels on the other thread.
But from measuring

Model                            Proto Height      Model Height         
MT PS1                         14' 11 3/4"         15’  7”

Atlas PS1                                                14' 11" plus just a tad, the roof walk is just under the 15' mark.

I bought my first Micro Trains PS1 boxcars back around 1973 for $2.50, they were amazing for that point in time.  But its almost forty years later and things have changed.  A month ago I sold off a large number of my older weathered, well run MT PS1's for $5 a car, thats a 50% profit. --Brian

[wazzou]

I bought my first Micro Trains PS1 boxcars back around 1973 for $2.50, they were amazing for that point in time.  But its almost forty years later and things have changed.  A month ago I sold off a large number of my older weathered, well run MT PS1's for $5 a car, thats a 50% profit. --Brian

That's a refreshing take Brian.  Cheers.

[PGE_Modeller]

I bought my first Micro Trains PS1 boxcars back around 1973 for $2.50, they were amazing for that point in time.  But its almost forty years later and things have changed.  A month ago I sold off a large number of my older weathered, well run MT PS1's for $5 a car, thats a 50% profit. --Brian

Actually, Brian, selling a car for $5.00 that cost you $2.50 is 100% profit!

Cheers,

[wcfn100]

You don't really need an excuse to keep the older MTL cars.  In many cases it will still be much more correct than the Atlas one.

When it comes to prototype modeling, 'Ride Height" is amateur hour.  Let me know when you get to the riveted end panels and whether or not they should be welded.   

Oh, and don't forget to lower the end tack board on that Rutland car.  Don't know how Atlas missed that. 

Jason

[CoalPorter]

I do believe the upper photos are of a Micro-Trains car
 before they retooled the roof for a lower profile roof walk.

You are aware that the MT 20000 series has undergone some subtal
changes over the years and is not exactly the same now as 1973?

I don't see any real rush to dump MT's cars. It will eons before Atlas produces anywhere
near the road names that MT / Kadee has. (and if Atlas chooses to
stick with 100% stickly PS1 schemes, then there will be many many railroads
that never get done).

[TrainReign]

You don't really need an excuse to keep the older MTL cars.  In many cases it will still be much more correct than the Atlas one.

When it comes to prototype modeling, 'Ride Height" is amateur hour.  Let me know when you get to the riveted end panels and whether or not they should be welded.   

Oh, and don't forget to lower the end tack board on that Rutland car.  Don't know how Atlas missed that. 

Jason

I'm trying to figure out if the Rutland and MILW prototypes have riveted or welded end panels. I know that they were right on the edge of the change. Any idea what ends they had??

[wcfn100]

I'm trying to figure out if the Rutland and MILW prototypes have riveted or welded end panels. I know that they were right on the edge of the change. Any idea what ends they had??

A car from '55 should be welded from my research (started in '54) and pictures of the Rutland car back that up.  Of course there can always be exceptions.

Again, for anyone interested in the PS-1, the Atlas model and the changes that took place over the years, take a look at the article I wrote.

www.cgwmodeler.com

Honestly, I think the riveted end panels may be a mistake for the Atlas car but I'm always open to a photo of a car with the long Sill Tabs and riveted end panels.  On the other hand, I'm glad they are there for converting to an earlier car.

Jason

[TrainReign]

A car from '55 should be welded from my research (started in '54) and pictures of the Rutland car back that up.  Of course there can always be exceptions.

Again, for anyone interested in the PS-1, the Atlas model and the changes that took place over the years, take a look at the article I wrote.

www.cgwmodeler.com

Honestly, I think the riveted end panels may be a mistake for the Atlas car but I'm always open to a photo of a car with the long Sill Tabs and riveted end panels.  On the other hand, I'm glad they are there for converting to an earlier car.

Jason

Do you have a picture of the Rutland car with welded ends?

The MILW car is from lot #8824 and the Rutland car is from lot # 8825.

I found a picture of a 50' PS-1, SOUTHERN 35658 that was built in lot #8829 that has riveted ends.

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/sout/sou35658ach.jpg

This to me would suggest that the MILW  and Rutland cars in question very well may have riveted ends.

[Robbman]

It will eons before Atlas produces anywhere near the road names that MT / Kadee has.

That would be interesting for someone to figure out... in less than a years time Atlas will have done 15 different roadnames, with two numbers per roadname, that makes it 30 schemes in MTL terms

[wcfn100]

Do you have a picture of the Rutland car with welded ends?

http://searcharchives.vancouver.ca/uploads/r/null/9/2/926914/808f6980-1740-4344-8f10-86059eab567a-A28906.jpg

I know it's fuzzy, but the car behind it you can clearly see the rivets so I think it would show.  There's a better shot in the Pullman Standard 1900-1960 book.

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/sout/sou35658ach.jpg

That car has been shopped, so I wouldn't use it as a very strong example.

The MILW RD color guide has a picture of the same series Atlas is doing and it shows fairly clear that it has welded ends.
Jason