Lets see your Unusual Motive Power

[LN2800]

Actually my questions were in regard to the SCL U18B you posted several pages prior.  It looks like I should be able to cut about 3 feet of length (two engine room doors) out of an Atlas U23B and "weld" the whole mess back together, then substitute a drive with the proper length and bolster spacing under the "new" shell.  I'm just looking for confirmation from someone who has done it already.

[Cajonpassfan]

LN2800,

Chassis is a VO-1000 with the trucks reversed.  Inacurrate by only 6 N scale inches or 3 inches per side.

Shell is stock except for the gyralite.

Only primary shell inaccuracy is on the other side.  A GP7 phase 1a has no box behind the cab on the other side.  Wasn't worth it for me to make that change.

Ron, so what truck spacing do you actually get by turning both VO trucks around?
Thanks, Otto K.

[u18b]

Ron, so what truck spacing do you actually get by turning both VO trucks around?
Thanks, Otto K.

Otto.
From the article I'm submitting.
31’   -          GP7 stock model and prototype
25.5’   - VO-1000 stock
30.5’   - VO-1000 with trucks reversed

Ron

[u18b]

Actually my questions were in regard to the SCL U18B you posted several pages prior.  It looks like I should be able to cut about 3 feet of length (two engine room doors) out of an Atlas U23B and "weld" the whole mess back together, then substitute a drive with the proper length and bolster spacing under the "new" shell.  I'm just looking for confirmation from someone who has done it already.

LN2800.  Sorry I missed it.

U18B has truck centers of about 31'.   I use an Atlas RS-1.

As to doors, yes and no.  Yes you could try to remove two doors but it would probably look right.  For example, what would you do with the roof hatch- each of which spans three doors.  If you cut them, how will you get the hinges to look right?

Instead, I chop down a Kato U30C.  Remove one complete 4-door section at the engine compartment, and then remove a section of short doors behind the cab.  Retain the cab mounting brace.

Now, on the walkway, the Atlas U23B walkway would be good.
I didn't have that when I made mine.

Complete instructions are in my article on Vol 4 CD-ROM of N-Scale Magazine.
(or you could buy one of mine.   

[aquaper]

MOW truck

[/quote]

Wasn't this on the cover of N-Scale magazine about 10-12 years ago?  I remember how awed I was that someone managed to create such a tiny work of art.

[Cajonpassfan]

Otto.
From the article I'm submitting.
31’   -          GP7 stock model and prototype
25.5’   - VO-1000 stock
30.5’   - VO-1000 with trucks reversed

Ron

Thanks Ron. So if I reverse only one truck, I should get 28'.... Close nough maybe for an FM H20-44....
Otto

[mandealco]

Hi
You can also get a 28' frame by milling down a Life-Like FA-1 or FB-1 chassis.  It also has AAR type "B" trucks, which would be closer to the H20-44.  I have one ready for an Alco C-415, and am now looking at how to kitbash the shell for former Rock Island 423, now on the Buffalo Southern. 
Cheers
Steve

[wazzou]

Steve -
RE: the C-415
Is that a low, mid or high cab?
Did the unit have Hi-Ad trucks or just AAR trucks?

[u18b]

MOW truck



Wasn't this on the cover of N-Scale magazine about 10-12 years ago?  I remember how awed I was that someone managed to create such a tiny work of art.

Yes.  That is the one.  I got the initial idea from another author who scratchbuilt one out of solid brass.  My kitbashing brain kicked in and this came out.

It only runs fair.  I plan to add bearings to it to improve performance one day..... one day.

PS- some of you will remember that I did an online clinic on the old Atlas board where I built another one with DCC with operating head lights that flashed like ditch lights.  It was pretty cool.  Never finished it though either.
Ron

[u18b]

Hi
You can also get a 28' frame by milling down a Life-Like FA-1 or FB-1 chassis.  It also has AAR type "B" trucks, which would be closer to the H20-44.  I have one ready for an Alco C-415, and am now looking at how to kitbash the shell for former Rock Island 423, now on the Buffalo Southern. 
Cheers
Steve

Wow!  Milling a wide body loco?
Only a guy with a milling machine/lathe would suggest this.

Milling a little metal with a motor tool is possible- but not on a whole loco like that.

By the way- some kind of lathe for milling metal would be my dream piece of equipment one day.
I know a widow who had one and was cleaning out her garage giving me all kinds of stuff.
I said what about that-  Oh, I think my son wants that-  Dang.  So close.
 

[u18b]

Thanks Ron. So if I reverse only one truck, I should get 28'.... Close nough maybe for an FM H20-44....
Otto

Yes, I would estimate 28"
However, I'm with Mandealco.  Did any FM H20-44 have switcher trucks?  The photos I've seen had ALCo road trucks (or AAR-B trucks).

[mandealco]

Hi Ron
The milling's easy.  My son (oldest of 8!) is in the Air Force machine shop.  If he can make parts to keep our aging air force flying, he can mill the odd loco frame.  He complains when he sees me tackle small scale stuff with an angle grinder!   Yes, an FA-1 chassis loses a lot of weight in the process, but I will get my C-415! 
Cheers
Steve

[mandealco]

Sorry Brian, missed your question.  The C-415 I'm drawing up, is a former Rock Island unit that is now on the Buffalo Southern.  It has AAR type "B" trucks and the medium height cab.  It is also painted a light blue, almost "The Rock" blue.  At present I have a chassis and a plan that I've scanned N-scale.  As with most of my models, one of the longest tasks is gazing at plans, photos and shells, looking for best fits.  I have a few projects on the go, but I expect I'll make a start on it in the next few months.
Cheers
Steve

[LN2800]

L

As to doors, yes and no.  Yes you could try to remove two doors but it would probably look right.  For example, what would you do with the roof hatch- each of which spans three doors.  If you cut them, how will you get the hinges to look right?

Instead, I chop down a Kato U30C.  Remove one complete 4-door section at the engine compartment, and then remove a section of short doors behind the cab.  Retain the cab mounting brace.

Rats, I forgot about the power assembly removal doors on the roof. Guess I'd better look into procuring some U30C bodies.

[TiVoPrince]

Heart  
skipped a beat.  I'm still bummed that I was not yet in N scale back in the height of the resin replacement shell era.  I have four of those in HO stalled on my workbench still pending A-Line steps for the last ten years...