Best consensus for stripping Kato shells - 91% alcohol?

[peteski]

Even cheaper (and more potent) option is to buy 99% Isopropyl alcohol (also called isopropanol 99) in your local hardware store in a gallon can.  I get mine in a local Ace Hardware store. They usually have it in stock (n the paint thinners isle) but if not, they can special order it for you.

To me there is no single best paint remover (even for models from the same manufacturer). I have a whole arsenal of different stripping chemical and I use whichever one works the best for that particular stripping job. Besides the isopropanol I also use denatured alcohol mixed with some acetone, Floquil ELO paint remover, Scalecoat Wash Away paint remover and lye-based strippers (like EasyOff oven cleaner or Castrol Super Clean (or an equivalent generic purple colored degreaser).  Most of the items I mentioned should be handled with care as they are caustic or damaging to human skin.

[Bob Bufkin]

Never stripped a whole engine or car but have used acetone to remove numbers or car names on Kato equipment.  Use a little with a cotton swab and usually a pencil eraser rubbing very lightly to remove.  Haven't had any problems with the paint underneath being removed.  Just work slow.

[bbussey]

Would the same procedure apply if I wanted to remove the lettering only?  Just don't soak as long?  Or apply locally with a cotton swab and gently rub?

It would be nice to make CR 4844 without having to redo the striping.



This rendition actually has an error.  The parts of the keystone that were above and below the stripe were painted out, but the cross section over the stripe survived.

[Bob Bufkin]

Bryan, I removed the lettering and names on the Kato Broadway cars with no problem.  Its nice I had a bunch of Microscale PRR passenger cars names to use on them. 

[Hyperion]

For just letters, I find 91% with a cotton swab works best as it's much harder to accidentally remove paint versus 97%.

[DKS]

Would the same procedure apply if I wanted to remove the lettering only?  Just don't soak as long?  Or apply locally with a cotton swab and gently rub?

I use 91% alcohol for full shell stripping. For lettering, I start with 70% and use a soft pencil eraser. If that doesn't work well, I switch to 91% and work quickly but gently to be sure not to damage the paint underneath.

I like using pencil erasers versus cotton swabs because the control is much finer, and it doesn't shed fibers that can get stuck in surface details. Also, you can carve the eraser tip to work around obstacles and get into tight spots.

[Philip H]

The Ace Hardware in Takoma Park (yes, pnw folks, that's how the spell it here  ) didn't have any chameleon.  Oh well, back to the 91% Iso.

[sizemore]

I use 91% alcohol for full shell stripping. For lettering, I start with 70% and use a soft pencil eraser. If that doesn't work well, I switch to 91% and work quickly but gently to be sure not to damage the paint underneath.

I like using pencil erasers versus cotton swabs because the control is much finer, and it doesn't shed fibers that can get stuck in surface details. Also, you can carve the eraser tip to work around obstacles and get into tight spots.

But dont you end up, polishing the paint unexposed to lettering paint? An eraser is the equivalent to 1000 grit wet/dry.

The S.

[flight2000]

But dont you end up, polishing the paint unexposed to lettering paint? An eraser is the equivalent to 1000 grit wet/dry.

The S.

I use the same method DKS described, and yes it does polish the area.  However, after changing out the decals with what I need, I shoot it with a clear coat and that makes everything the same again, plus it protects the new decal. 

Brian

[C855B]

I also use the wetted-eraser technique. The polishing effect on the paint is certainly fixed with the Dullcoat or whatever matte overcoat you prefer after decaling.

The first time I tried this I screwed-up the striping (UP) near the lettering due to the alcohol spreading. Also, I let the runoff pool too long in a couple of spots and the diluted red tinted the orange. Now, to prevent both, I mask around the lettering first as a solvent dam.

[sizemore]

I use the same method DKS described, and yes it does polish the area.  However, after changing out the decals with what I need, I shoot it with a clear coat and that makes everything the same again, plus it protects the new decal. 

Brian

Understood about the clearcoat, I've just seen some weird things occur with flat vs. "polished" surface areas. I tend to use a satin finish as a result.

The S.

[Packer]

Even cheaper (and more potent) option is to buy 99% Isopropyl alcohol (also called isopropanol 99) in your local hardware store in a gallon can.  I get mine in a local Ace Hardware store. They usually have it in stock (n the paint thinners isle) but if not, they can special order it for you.

How much is the gallon of 99%? If the can is big enough to stick models it then that seems like a really good idea.

Not to derail this thread or anything, but I figured piggy-backing a question of mine onto this thread was a better idea than starting my own thread. (it relates to stripping Stewart/Kato shells and 91% alcohol)

I Just started stripping some custom painted shells about 20 minutes ago. The paint come off fairly easily but some decal were stubborn and others aren't coming off at all. Do decals take a bunch more time in alcohol to remove than paint does?

[Ian MacMillan]

I use 97% for Kato shells, 91 for Atlas. I get the 97% at Rite Aid

[keeper]

I tried to strip the paint of an U30C (old version) with 90% alcohol from the pharmacy. Because the paint didn't come off right away I 'bathed' the shell for some time. The result was a warped shell and paint which didn't come loose... 

Thomas

[flight2000]

Hey Brian, do you happen to have the packaging for your bristle brush attachment and can get a part number?  And which model number of Dremel?

I had poor luck in the past with that method as it seemed to wear the detail a bit too much.  Either my Dremel even at its lowest setting is too fast or the brush I used was too coarse (or both).

I'd sure like a better method to a toothbrush.  I've found that some Kato colors, like Yellow, are a total PIA to get off.

I use the #405 bristle brush by Dremel.  http://www.amazon.com/Cleaning-Polishing-Brush-1-8/dp/B00004UDGU

I also have the 404 brush for larger areas, but haven't used it yet.  http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-404-Bristle-Brush/dp/B0001X0F56/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1338404111&sr=1-4

I have the Dremel 300 series that I use for just about everything.

Just make sure you use goggles.  I haven't lost any details on any engines during the process as long as it stays wet while the brush is working.

Brian