Weekend Update 4/8/12

[up1950s]

Dan that transporter is beautiful .

[wm3798]

Bliggity Blog updated...
http://wmrywesternlines.blogspot.com/2012/04/living-in-modular-age.html

Sign up as a follower so as not to miss a moment ...

Lee

[sizemore]

Mike:
Sorry about your rough time of things latley. I hope it all works out for the best. You can always move to the East Coast and hang out with us asshats.

Bryan:
Can you fast track the autorack to production? I could use a few dozen.

This week I worked on a Japanese auto transporter:

...images removed...

The model is made of etched nickel and measures 8'6" wide, 12'5" tall and about 40' long making it perfect for 1/160. This type of transport is used to move smaller batches of used cars from auctions to dealerships where TrainCat's model is mainly used for new car deliveries.

I still need to add details and paint some parts.

Gotta link for the beastie? It looks like it would work in the late 60's early 70's....

The S.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

The kit was from a company called Pairhands. It was available from 1999.co.jp and Plazajapan, but no longer in production.

[bbussey]

This
could be a serious game changer.  I had always planned autorack loading far back from the aisle deep in a corner to disguise the MT/ConCor weaknesses.  At the very least a second loading area up close with these and a loading ramp and some foreground quality Nissan or Toyota models will have to be aisle side even if it has to be static, this would be just too cool to miss.  Now, I may need to rethink everything track planning wise...

Can you fast track the autorack to production? I could use a few dozen.

I hadn't thought about offering the Portec tri-level auto rack for sale as it would be costly.  Much more than the Red Caboose model, but I haven't compiled all the final costs yet.  Both the RP core and the etched sheet are expensive because they are large.  The tri-fold doors still require extra detail in the form of Evergreen rod and wire; 4" x 1/2" x 1/16" weights must be cut from steel bar stock that still must be procured; BLMA grab irons are required for the "ladders"; and formed staples are needed for the stirrups.  But I certainly can advise what the total cost would be once I know for those who would still be interested in building one.  Also, you definitely would need a bender for the brass wrapper.  There are "fold" lines etched in the design, but a lot of the detail is intricate and it would be very difficult if not impossible to bend the wrapper by hand.

This model is based specifically on The Rock prototype that was acquired by Grand Trunk Western.  I'm building two - one painted as a patched-out ex-Rock stenciled for GTW, and the other repainted in the standard all-blue GTW scheme.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Bryan, I was thinking more in the lines of a RTR version. The MTL tri level underwhelms and i want some variety to my RC cars.

Costly, yes... worth it? I certainly would pay $40 a peice for some.

[bbussey]

Definitely not RTR.  It would require a redesign of the core so it could be injection-molded plastic for that to happen, and I don't know if my Chinese contractor would be willing to mask/paint/bend the brass wrapper.  The selling price would push the model beyond where it would be possible to see the ROE, let alone earn some profit.

A kit?  Maybe.  But even that it questionable due to the cost of the components.  For a couple of personal models, I can write a magazine article and that would cover most if not all of my costs so I personally don't feel the hit.  Sometimes it takes me a while to recoup due to trial-and-error on the model, but eventually I get it back.

For those who are adventurous, I could make extras.  But I don't see how it would be feasible to offer this model at retail.

FYI, the Red Caboose auto racks are at $40 now.  And I did write an article on lowering/adjusting the MTL rack a few years back so that the appearance is much better when next to the RC cars, and it doesn't require much effort.

[jnevis]

A little past the weekend but started fitting my Whait Tower to a DPM Hillltown Hotel.  I also cut a door in the opposite side to become a Starbucks. 
Need to file back the wall the WT sits in a little to bring teh front wall back in line with the window frame but it fits fairly well so far.


"Oh Lord don't let me screw this up"

(Of course I did already but it still works.  I WAS going to sacrifice the front window but leave the door to fit the original window frame but cut back the lower section anyway)

[Ian MacMillan]

Definitely not RTR.  It would require a redesign of the core so it could be injection-molded plastic for that to happen, and I don't know if my Chinese contractor would be willing to mask/paint/bend the brass wrapper.  The selling price would push the model beyond where it would be possible to see the ROE, let alone earn some profit.

A kit?  Maybe.  But even that it questionable due to the cost of the components.  For a couple of personal models, I can write a magazine article and that would cover most if not all of my costs so I personally don't feel the hit.  Sometimes it takes me a while to recoup due to trial-and-error on the model, but eventually I get it back.

For those who are adventurous, I could make extras.  But I don't see how it would be feasible to offer this model at retail.

FYI, the Red Caboose auto racks are at $40 now.  And I did write an article on lowering/adjusting the MTL rack a few years back so that the appearance is much better when next to the RC cars, and it doesn't require much effort.

Could always offer the kit for sale, but have the parts printed/etched as needed, or do a certain run amount like a craftsman kit. Like I've always said I'd wish there were more craftsman level kits in N like in HO when it comes to cars. If this kit was at $50-$70 and the detail quality matched it, I would not bat an eye in spending the money.

[Iain]

Could always offer the kit for sale, but have the parts printed/etched as needed, or do a certain run amount like a craftsman kit. Like I've always said I'd wish there were more craftsman level kits in N like in HO when it comes to cars. If this kit was at $50-$70 and the detail quality matched it, I would not bat an eye in spending the money.

Big +1 there.  While this specific car doesn't interest me, I love building craftsman kits, and would be willing to pay that price for them.  Look at Traincat's work, for example.

[bbussey]

I'll have to see what the final component cost is once I get the model figured out and then see.  I would also have to check with Red Caboose and see if they have extras of the brake ratchet part, since that is what I'm using on my two.  I received a bunch of spare  parts back when I was supplying them with photos regularly when the auto racks were first released, but I don't have enough for multiple kits.  I still have to look into the steel or brass weight that sits in a depression of the bottom deck, and those would have to be cut to size as well.  And the trucks/couplers would have to be the responsibility of the consumer if these things end up being made-to-order.

[GaryHinshaw]

Could always offer the kit for sale, but have the parts printed/etched as needed, or do a certain run amount like a craftsman kit. Like I've always said I'd wish there were more craftsman level kits in N like in HO when it comes to cars. If this kit was at $50-$70 and the detail quality matched it, I would not bat an eye in spending the money.

+1.  That's a beautiful piece of work Bryan.  By the way, why did you go with brass over stainless for the panels?  Curling?

[bbussey]

Brass is easier to manipulate and less expensive, plus the non-etched panel areas of the stainless would have to be brush-polished to kill the chrome-like finish and come close to matching the half-etched areas. Brass holds paint better, especially since masking is required either way.  I also don't have to be 100% precise on the bend angles because the metal is pliable and will conform to the frame angles.  I will paint the wrapper after bending and before application to the frame,  so it can be baked to lock the paint in.  I'll admit the advantages of stainless are the extreme strength and rigidity (no worry about accidentally warping the part or damaging small details during assembly) and the natural color on the panels, but the brass advantages outweigh them in this circumstance.

I got the revised frames back.  The XYZ measurements are now perfect and match the etched wrapper exactly, but I have two new issues to address from the last set of modifications made - the center sill still isn't low enough, and the wheel flanges just graze the bottom of the car.  So back to the RP contractor for two more frames sometime next week.