This week I finally learned how to set my camera up for taking close ups of small things like N scale diesels. I took photos of the process and though I still need more practice with modeling and the camera, here are the results...
I haven't done a whole lot of modeling in N scale. Aside from the layout the only N scale models I have built to date are some building kits for the mockup of Altoona and a kitbash for the New Portage bridge. In the past couple of days I've tried a couple of "bash" projects to wet my feet, so to speak. The first was this double ended PCC cobbled together from two Bachman cars...
Needs a bit of work once the glue and primer dry. I may build a couple more of these for the Altoona & Logan Valley.
The second project is a trial run. The Altoona Northern needs a switcher, which right now is a Trix Fairbanks-Morse H-12-44. The H12-44 was a brand new diesel in 1949-1950. I want the shortline to have something a bit older. The H10-44 was built in 1944 and would be 6 or 7 years old at that time. I took a Trix Fairbanks Morse switcher shell and tried to see if I could work with the tiny parts needed to backdate it to the older H-10-44.
The shell I'm using is pretty carved up already and is essentially scrap. I cut it up thinking I would mount it on a Kato mechanism. That was before I found a deal on complete Trix model. Now I'm using this shell to develop some techniques for modeling in N scale. I'm not worried about scale dimensions just yet, just trying things out.
The first thing I did was scrape the louver detail off the cab side steps. A chisel blade would be the better tool, but I couldn't find mine. I'm getting by with the trusty No 11 blade. The side step is actually indented from the cab so that after the louvers are gone there is just enough space for a 5 mm thick piece of styrene. The side panels will end up flush with the cab sides...
I use the back of the blade tip to score the styrene, rather than cut it. I learned this years ago from an old Alan Armitage article in Model Railroader. Allan used a special scoring tool. I found that if I just turn the No 11 blade upside down it does the same job. Great use for all those blades with blunt tips...
I cut the styrene twice as large as I needed for one side panel...
I then cut that piece in half long ways to get the two side panels...
Looking back on it I might have carved the overall shape of the two parts from the bigger piece and then cut it in two. Instead I shaped one piece by cutting it close to the general shape with the knife (using the cutting side of the blade this time)...
I then used a flat file on the straight edge and the outside curve...
I used a round file for the inside curve at the cab end...
Now I need to make the second side panel match the first...
I applied some tacky glue to the finished side panel...
I glued the first panel on top of the blank for the second side...
I trimmed off any excess and roughed out the general shape with the knife...
After a bit more filing I have two "identical" side panels. They don't have to be exactly the same. A trick I learned from striping and flaming cars is that you can fudge a bit. Nobody can see both sides of an object at the same time. Still, I try to get them as close as possible...
Using a glue pen I applied plastic cement to the steps...
I placed the side panels on the steps and made sure the edges lined up...
I roughed out the general size of the cab roof. Since the roof will be curved the piece needs to be longer than the width of the cab....
On my first attempt I made the roof a little too narrow (piece on the right) and had to cut another piece. I added another millimeter and tried again...
I spread some plastic glue on the cab roof and applied the roof. At first I tried to hold it in place until the glue set, but got interrupted. I realized I could form the general curve of the roof with my fingers and not have to hold in place or clamp it...
The shell now looks more like the H10-44 but it's still not quite right. The side panels need to be larger and the roof overhang curves into the cab sides. I may also need to check the cab windows and modify them. On the next try I'll use actual scale dimensions and cut the roof correctly. I'll also need to make sure the louvers and panels on the hood match the earlier switcher. There is also a slight angle to the radiator end of the hood. The angle is so slight I may be able to file the hood to match.
Next I'll try it on the actual Altoona Northern locomotive.
Frank Musick
