Author Topic: Reworking a Trix U28C  (Read 1243 times)

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Philip H

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Reworking a Trix U28C
« on: March 01, 2012, 10:29:54 AM »
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So as I've been going over all my accumulated stuff, I've been debating if I want to add redoing my Trix U28C to the list.  I stripped and paointed it years ago fro my never realized proto-freelanced NO&R empire, but I am not thinking about redoing it as a stand in for the ICG U33C's that run in the 1970's and early 80's.

Looking over Spookshow's incredible site, he gives it a B grade, and notes that the shell is probably a U30C instead of a 28.  And over on  Trainboard, there is a really nice thread on upgrading the U30CGs.

So here's my question set:
  • Is it worth upgrading if I can get a better motor and turn down the wheels for Code 55?
  • If this is a U30 in disguise, what do I need to do to get to an accurate U33 hood?
  • Anyone here done anything like this to the Trix locos and care to share?
Philip H.
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Baton Rouge Southern RR - Mount Rainier Division.

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C855B

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Re: Reworking a Trix U28C
« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2012, 11:08:53 AM »
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Really? I'd find a good price on the older Kato U30C run on eBay and not look back.

EDIT: There was an article in the Mar/Apr 2001 issue of N Scale Railroading by Ron Bearden about kitbashing a U33 and U36, apparently using a C30-7 radiator section. You might take a look.
« Last Edit: March 01, 2012, 11:22:55 AM by C855B »
...mike

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Philip H

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Re: Reworking a Trix U28C
« Reply #2 on: March 01, 2012, 01:46:03 PM »
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Thanks for the heads up - my main interest in the Trix unit is that I already have it, and if I pursue this I can spend my budget on detail parts and a better motor.
Philip H.
Chief Everything Officer
Baton Rouge Southern RR - Mount Rainier Division.

"Yes there are somethings that are "off;" but hey, so what." ~ Wyatt

"I'm trying to have less cranial rectal inversion with this." - Ed K.

"There's more to MRR life than the Wheezy & Nowheresville." C855B

wm3798

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Re: Reworking a Trix U28C
« Reply #3 on: March 01, 2012, 02:22:06 PM »
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Plan to invest in some new handrails at the very least.  Katos are thick, but those old trix things are Lincoln Logs.
You'll also have flange issues if you're running c55.

Lee
Rockin' It Old School

Lee Weldon www.wmrywesternlines.net

Mark5

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Re: Reworking a Trix U28C
« Reply #4 on: March 01, 2012, 08:17:14 PM »
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Ugh, I had one of these dinosaurs about 30 years - I was gonna use it to re-power a Mehano SD45. :scared:

This is the chassis with the lily white inner "idler" axles, right? (8 wheel drive). Plus 3 poles at the race track!

I think the shell is something like a U30C ph 1b or something like that - compare it to this U30C and let us know:

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1174286

Personally, I'd sell it on the bay and get the Kato.

Mark

atsf_arizona

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Re: Reworking a Trix U28C
« Reply #5 on: March 04, 2012, 07:43:48 PM »
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Hi, Philip H,

I'm one of the guys over on that Trainboard thread about the Minitrix U30CGs on Kato U30C mechanism.

For what it's worth, the various posts over in that thread seem to imply that while some Minitrix U28C mechanisms run OK,
by today's standards most of the mechanisms are very noisy and prone to electrical pickup problems.    At least on that other
thread, many have said that remotoring the Trix is unlikely to produce anything near what a standard (an relatively inexpensive)
U30C / C30-7 Kato mechanism will give you right out of the box.  The original run Kato U30C / C30-7 non-DCC ready mechanisms
can be had for not too much given the newer DCC ready mechanisms are now readily available.

If you are dead set on keeping the same shell, you could put it on a Kato U30C / C30-7 mech.

Anyway, hope that helps, of course, please do as you see best, more power to you. :-)
John Sing
Sarasota, FL
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Modeling the Santa Fe's Peavine Line (Ash Fork -> Phoenix, Arizona) during the 50s and 60s