H12-44

[Iain]

Another route that I have done is to grind down the sides of a LL SW1200 mechanism.  A fair piece of work, but you get a good running model as a result.

[SkipGear]

The VO1000 chassis is perfect for the older long wheelbase H10 and H12. The newer version H12 that the Trix seems to be is from what I can find about 2ft shorter.

Dave,
 I have considered splicing the shells, sanding off the doors and using the cutter to create new door skins. Maybe even use BLMA etched doors if anything is close enough (haven't looked to find out yet). The hardest part is to replicate the louvers in the doors and those aren't done all that well in the model anyhow.

[bbussey]

Thanks for the suggestions Bryan. Do you think that producing the core without the door details, etc might solve some of the stepping problems as well since it could be sanded?

That said, I don't have the skill set currently to produce a core in CAD. Then there is the issue of not having any drawings to utilize. One of the Mod-U-Track guys (who doesn't post here) has measured an H10 or H12 recently so that would be a big help.

You have experience in brass etchings though.  A simple core shape such as the FM switcher could be fabricated from styrene with brass details applied.  The roof and nose could be salvaged from the Trix model and filed/sanded smooth of detail, with new styrene sides to form your core.  A little more sweat equity involved, but not beyond your skill level, so that's another option.  All you need is a good master to render castings from, and it only has to survive the mold casting process.

[bbussey]

... I have considered splicing the shells, sanding off the doors and using the cutter to create new door skins. Maybe even use BLMA etched doors if anything is close enough (haven't looked to find out yet). The hardest part is to replicate the louvers in the doors and those aren't done all that well in the model anyhow.

Tony,

Archer has louvers along with their rivets that would work.

[rschaffter]

I used an Kadee conversion pilot kit for the old Atlas RSD4/5, IIRC, and turned down the flanges on mine.  I have some VO100 handrails for the long hood...



One of these days I need to find a better motor, and repaint it in its original Brunswick Green...


EDIT:  Archer has louvers now?  That's pretty cool...

[wazzou]

The original Minitrix chassis can be re-motored with the motor and worms from a Life-Like SW-1200.  It makes a fine running little switcher.

[LV LOU]

 I apparently haven't been here long enough to post pics yet...I just did a Trix FM up,put on a VO-1000 cab and updated the whole thing,painted it as a CNJ blue B&O lease unit.
  Tony,I scrapped an extra Reading VO-1000 I had for the chassis,took an Atlas H-15-44 shell,cut the nose off,and made a PRR H-20-44 out of it..I gotta go look at it,I seem to remember cutting off the entire front of the cab,and using a LL SW cab back for the windows/steps.

[Zox]

I apparently haven't been here long enough to post pics yet...

Lou, you should be able to post pictures here (use the button just above the row of smilies), but Railwire doesn't host pictures. You'll need to upload them somewhere, then link to them.

[LV LOU]

 Got it!! Here's the shortened Atlas shell on the VO-1000 chassis.Sorry for the crappy pics,my camera doesn't seem to be cooperating.Hey,guys,did Photobucket get goofy,or is it just me? This seems to be the biggest pic I can post,even my old ones shrunk?
.

[LV LOU]

Here's the Trix/CNJ..I used a VO-1000 cab and glass,I think I also used the VO railings/pilots.Both aren't quit finished,I need to repaint the railings a little better,and touch both up a little.The blue on this one is actually a lot lighter,they were always faded pretty bad..

[LV LOU]

 Bye the way..You guys that have the old TRIX FM,or any TRIX diesel,for that matter..I found ca simple way to make them less "cammy",and have better low speed performance.One at a time,I pry the motor magnets loose.After you get it free,mark it so you know exactly how you took it out.Take it out,and clean up the glue on the magnet and the can as best as you can.Now,put it back in,and push it all the way to the other end away from the brushes.Shim it up to the can with an appropriate piece of paper/plastic,ETC,and then glue it to the can with ACC.Do the same with the other magnet.You end up with about a 20% reduction in magnet to armature interface,and if you clean the glue out really well,the magnets get a little farther away.It really smooths them out,the CNJ unit ran like it had with square wheels,way better now..