"Shoo-Fly" Free-moN Module (2'x6')

[M.C. Fujiwara]

But you must explain why a long-hood forward Hustle Muscle is dragging a disabled passenger train backwards across Sonoma County.

The driver is lost.
Imagine his surprise when, a minute later, he found himself in Lockhart, TX!!
Ah, the magic of Free-moN.

Jamie: the static grass is a combo of 4mm Heki and 2mm WS.
I altered the ratio depending on what effect I wanted.
Still got a bit of practicing to do
(Darn, guess I'll have to build another module...)

Haven't been posting because I've had to tackle the backlog of work I let slide while getting the staging yard module operational.
 When we set up at Hiller Aviation Museum we realized that we had only one runaround / passing siding besides the turnback loop, and that was Steve Williams' Lockhart, TX module.
 We had more modules past Lockhart, but it was all single track with no turnouts.
 So on Sunday, April 8th I started cutting wood for a 16" x 10' staging yard module so we could at least run around some trains and so use Lockhart as a meet rather than staging / passing / runaround / terminus.
 The module is two 16"x4' sections with a 12"x24" 15 deg. curved insert so we could bend the yard in either direction if we had to (the slight curve also makes the yard increadibly stable):
 


[The gap on the far left staging track was filled in with temp flextrack on double-sided tape to be operational]
 


While I wasn't able to get all 7 tracks laid (final will have a main, two staging and a runaround on each side, but two LHS didn't have enough #7 turnouts!), I was able to get the main and about 3 1/2 staging tracks done & wired, so on Sunday when 5-6 guys showed up we could all run trains continuously, so good times all around.
 


We clamped the 4"x24" detachable extension on at the end for clearance & runaround.
 
But we were able to run some pretty good-sized trains!
 


Considering my "home" layout is a little under 2'x4', it was a real treat to be able to run long trains through groovy scenery.
 Major Free-moN plus!
 
The Caboose Ind. ground throws are just temporary: now that the show's over I'll pop those off and install Bullfrogs underneath with control rods running to both sides.
 There'll also be a diesel service area, machine shop, wreck crane train siding (we need it!) and an 8"ish manual turntable with steam service for the steamers and F-units.
 
And of course, a video:
 

Thanks for looking.

[S Class]

MC An idea if I may for the Vine yard.

Get some twine and ***** to lengths, at one end hit it with some CA or similar to bind it.

Then unravel the other end and "comb" it out so you have a series of 'vines' that you can then paint or use glue to stiffen and bend to the shape you want, then hit with foliage material and thread over and through the trellises.

It's and idea I've wanted to try but had no time or buildings to do it on.

[M.C. Fujiwara]

Thanks, S-Class.
I had actually tried that same technique, but thought the twine came out a little chunky to my tastes.

Used small stranded wire to create the vines, which I painted with ceramic stucco paste and then with Grimy Black:
 


You might have seen me use sawdust & whiteglue to create the bark on my oak trees, but that takes too many coats and too long to dry for the vines, and the stucco is easy to work with, sticks to the wire in one coat, and comes out with almost the same texture.
 (And with a couple hundred of these to make, easy & quick wins!)
 
Here's about 80 vines planted:
 


Only about 100 more to go!
 Used floral wire for the irregation hose.
 
Not a super-fine detailed vineyard, but creates a good impression:
 


Why no grapes?
 It's early-/mid-spring.
 Plus, an N-scale grape would be 0.00315".
 No thank you!
 
Might put some of those big fans you see among the vines in Sonoma, though that might date the module a bit modern.
 We'll see.
 
And, of course, a "how-to" video:
 

Hope it comes in handy.
 Thanks for looking.

[PRRATSF]

MC...outstanding job on the vineyard. We have several hundred of arbor in our back yard. very convincing scene.

Sam

[Philip H]

Well done sir, as usual.  Thanks for editing the video together.

Now I have to figure out how to adapt this technique to make Kudzu.  sigh.

[M.C. Fujiwara]

I think it'd be pretty easy to mimic kudzu with polyfiber and fine groundfoam.
Look into AMSI for some non-WS colors and textures that would visually separate the kudzu from the rest of the ground cover.

Finally finished planting Lush Vineyard:
 








That's 182 individually made & planted vines.
 At about 3 hours per batch of 40 vines, it was a bit laborious, but the end result is worth it.
 Especially as this is a Free-moN module, and both sides are the "front" and close to the viewer.
 
If I ever make a vineyard again, I'm puttin' towards the back of the layout and just detailing the first row or two and fakin' the rest.
 Still, I think it turned out alright, and, with the oaks, definitely says "Sonoma, California".
 
Now just got to finish the bridge-building scene and this module is d-o-n-e!
 Thanks for looking.

[M.C. Fujiwara]

Been working on the last scene on the Free-moN "Shoo-fly" module: bridge construction.









Still have a ways to go.
Currently building a bulldozer and crane car (to be perminantly positioned above the yet-to-be-poured abuttment.
Need to figure out how to make churned dirt / dozer tracks / mud (thinking brown paint and some Durhams water putty, or maybe just paint and matte modge podge).
Workers, water tank, tools, more wood, more framing, more rebar, etc.

Any other construction detail suggestions appreciated.

Last will be a final water pour to raise the creek a smidge and cover all the crap & scratches there now.

At least I won't have to explain the lack of bridge there anymore 

[M.C. Fujiwara]

Been trying for a churned-earth / muddish ground that shows evidence of the bulldozer / tractor that I'm assembling.
So I tried some Liquitex Brown with some dirt and Durham's Water Putty mixed in.
Painted it on the area, let it set a bit, then squished the tracks of the tractor around the muck to get prints and piles.



Not sure if it was a success, as it seems to be drying a bit light tan instead of darker brown, but I can always paint over / stain that as long as the texture is good.
That's the problem with real dirt: even fine sifted it's still a bit grany for N.
That's why I think the paint / water putty works alrighty.
Was first experiment: will refine!

[Micke C]

Looks fantastic! 

//Micke C - http://crawfordjct.blogspot.se/ - US-modules in Sweden

[LKOrailroad]

Love the rebar! The plastic culvert indicates current era. That being said, shouldn't the rebar be green or rust?

[dnhouston]

Impressive, I really like how the rebar and treadmarks came out.

[M.C. Fujiwara]

The GHQ kit tracks are what I used to make the imprints above
 Dried very light, so I stained the area, and it turned out nice & muddy / churned.
 
I know that a real construction company would build both abuttments at the same time, but I wanted to have "progress" in progress, so one abuttment "done" and another in medias res.
 The eye zero's in on details one at a time anyway, so I was hoping that each bridge side would frame the eye like a comic panel and divert from the slight diversion from reality.
 Alas, buddy Michael Rountree (WP&P: http://wpandp.com/Home/), in addition to being a fine MMR, is also an architect, and called me on the concrete reality of the lack of parallel concrete progress, so I had to add to the scene and show the first "mis-cast" abuttment being carted away:
 


Concrete chunks made from balsa foam painted & stained with "rebar" embedded.
 


Concrete trash not planted yet: think I need to weather a wee bit more.
 
Currently building an older rail crane to perch above the build, and surveyors are a great idea!
 
Fun with a small scene like this: so many little details to make it real!

[packers#1]

Love the miscast; adds another panel to the comic strip

[davefoxx]

M.C.,

I'm no bridge expert, but did you build your "completed" abutment too tall?  It looks like there's no room for the bridge structure to fit on top of the abutment and allow the track to cross at the elevation of the approaches.

Hope I'm wrong,
DFF

[M.C. Fujiwara]

M.C.,

I'm no bridge expert, but did you build your "completed" abutment too tall?  It looks like there's no room for the bridge structure to fit on top of the abutment and allow the track to cross at the elevation of the approaches.

Hope I'm wrong,
DFF

Nope, you're right.
Pushed it down into the foam but it came a bit back up.
First I went "meh" but now it's beginning to bug, so thank goodness for Dremels 
Cheers!