Seaboard Central 2.0

[davefoxx]

Otto,

It's not a terrible idea at all.  My concern would be as soon as the decal solution is applied, it will become painfully obvious that the painted brick detail doesn't match up with the model's brick pattern.  But, this experiment can always be done later, and it's something that I wouldn't be afraid to try.  I just don't have the know-how to make those decals at this time.  Oh, and we'd have to figure out how to match the paint color I choose for the windows to the decals.  That might be tough.

DFF

[John]

Here's the link for the PDF of the tinted file if you want to see how it compares when printed.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B035pd0mZNKgTUVkeFpKUE5Zd2s


Jason

I bet it would work if you printed it on photo paper .. then hit it with some dullcote .. or better yet, send to costco for printing ..

[davefoxx]

I bet it would work if you printed it on photo paper .. then hit it with some dullcote .. or better yet, send to costco for printing ..

Hi, John,

I've already printed the roof shingles on decal paper for laser printers.  I clear-coated the decal, so, hopefully, it will apply to the building with no problems.  I'm painting the station today, so decaling is coming soon.  But, my paint color choices and techniques  may be quickly turning this project into a three-foot model.

DFF

[davefoxx]

Base paint for the body of the station and the windows and doors are finished (except for the baggage room door that has to be masked and painted when the brick paint cures):



Ugh, that picture came out poorly.  I'll try to get a better shot later.

Still to go:
1) White fascia
2) Red drip edge
3) Red chimneys
4) Decal roof shingles
5) Light weathering and semi-gloss or flat clear coat
6) Window glass

DFF

[Rich_S]

DFF

Dave, The red trim looks close enough for my tired old eyes to say, I think you nailed it.  two thumbs up.

[Cajonpassfan]

Otto,

It's not a terrible idea at all.  My concern would be as soon as the decal solution is applied, it will become painfully obvious that the painted brick detail doesn't match up with the model's brick pattern.  But, this experiment can always be done later, and it's something that I wouldn't be afraid to try.  I just don't have the know-how to make those decals at this time.  Oh, and we'd have to figure out how to match the paint color I choose for the windows to the decals.  That might be tough.

DFF

I try hard not to have terrible ideas. But there are times I can't help myself
Otto

[wm3798]

You need a one bristle brush, a magnifier, and about an hour or two where the kids are asleep.

You can do it.

It's kind of a distinctive feature.  Don't chicken(45) out...

Lee

[davefoxx]

It's not chicken(45)ing out.  The bricks don't line up with the window and door openings, and it will look worse.  I agree that it's a distinctive feature, but I fear that my clumsy hands will just make it look like garbage after spending days building the structure.  I can always add it later, if I come up with a better method.

DFF

[wm3798]

Regardless, the overall effect you're achieving is top drawer!

[conrailthomas519]

you can DO IT!

[davefoxx]

I received a small order from MBK today to allow me to do some work on the layout.  Sadly, I won't have much modeling time this weekend, due to family commitments.  But, in the meantime, I finally bought some containers to load my Twinstack train.  Yeah, they're probably not era-appropriate, but I grew tired of waiting for DI to release the proper containers announced almost two years ago.  I also violated my rule of no duplicate road numbers, but, if you can read the numbers on the containers under normal viewing, more power to you!

Here, we're running a test train for clearances on the Seaboard Central.  Hey, this IS my first double track train.  Ever.  I'm still very appreciative of Atlas releasing the B36-7s in Seaboard System paint.  Perfect, this is 1980s railroading right here!



Truthfully, the former SAL line through North Carolina probably wasn't set up for double stack clearance, but, hey, Rule #1, right?  That said, I did only buy ten containers, so I could test running double stacks in one car, or, for now, I could load them as single stacks in two cars, which would be more appropriate for my line.  I'll tell you this, the crossing lights I installed to protect automobile traffic in Aberdeen really like the loaded cars much better, as the open bottom of the Twinstack cars confused the signals, which are operated by photocells.

I've added no weights to the containers, as suggested by the manufacturer, but I have to say that the Twinstack cars are running great- even when double stacked!  The only modification to the cars that I have made is the replacement of the plastic wheelsets with Fox Valley metal wheelsets.

DFF

[Scottl]

Looks great Dave, especially with double stacks.  I have not found it necessary to add weight to containers, although I add magnets to build up the stacks and they add a bit of weight.

[davefoxx]

@Scottl,

Good call, I can see the advantage of the magnets.  What kind of magnets do you use and where do you buy them?

Thanks,
DFF

[davefoxx]

Around family obligations, I modified five (so far) Bachmann telephone poles, to turn these . . .



into something a little more appropriate for rural eastern North Carolina and a little less just-out-of-the-box look.  I cut off the base, but not just lopped off.  I actually trimmed the base flush with the circumference of the pole and sanded it to the cylindrical shape of the line pole.  This not only added 6-12" to the height of the line pole (I wish they were taller), but left a dimple on the bottom that allowed me to start a drill bit to insert a wire to plant the poles on the layout.  I also cut off two of the arms and sanded the poles to get rid of that cheap plasticky finish.  They look much better, so I may not even paint them.  Besides at least one or two will get the kudzu treatment:





I have EZ Line, so, hopefully, I'll have time to get back into the train room to attempt running the wires.  But, before I run the wires, I'll research the placement of the line poles.  For now, they're about 125 scale feet apart and about twenty feet off of the closest rail.  Looks good, but I'm no expert.

DFF

[Scottl]

I use 1/4" rare earth disc magnets, many sources but I have had a lot of ebay packages from China never arrive (probably stuck on a sorting machine somewhere!).  I cut a length of thicker paper about 30' scale feet and give it a twist, and then place two magnets on either end sandwiching the paper.  When these are installed, they can rotate to the appropriate position to secure to the other container.  I just put two magnets together loose in a 20' can.  It works great.