The original Boston Line BACK on track!

[GaryHinshaw]

Running Tally:
French Drain and Sump Pump:  $8200
Filling in Windows and Cement Work: $300
Ceiling Removal: $600
Plumbing Related Issues: $7500
Dumpsters: $550
--------------------------------------------------
$14450 out of a $22000 budget (for finished room only, not layout)

Finished room for the layout: priceless.

There's a lot going on there!  That's going to be a huge improvement.

[sirenwerks]

That's going to be a huge improvement.

To the house, which is an investment beyond layout.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

To the house, which is an investment beyond layout.

And that is the reason why I started stuch a large project. I am converting a house (bought off a foreclosure) that would not pass plumbing, electrical and structural (some joists are cut though and not reinforced) inspections, and modernizing everything I am working with to exceed codes PLUS add 600 more usable square feet.

Before the layout goes in but after the room is finished, I plan on getting a new assesment of the house. It will be designed to look like a massive media room during the assesment. Now I just need to borrow an 80" plasma.

I hope to boost its current value (between 230-260) by over $40k.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Just a quick update. I have one more 4' section of wall to remove and demo is done. Sewer is almost in and water lines have been installed in the second bathroom and kitchen. We still have no water to the fridge though.

The gas and water lines hang just below the joists. This wasn't my idea. I had wanted them to go through the joists so I could drywall directly into the joist and avoid strapping. I will now need to use 1/2" strapping throughout the ceiling.

Becasue of this, I have decided to use 1/4" drywall for the ceiling instead of the 1/2" I had planned on. The areas below the main bathroom will be sealed with Killz paint to make them more moisture resistant prior to instalation.

I still plan on using 1/2" green board for the walls, and have started pricing this out.

Now, how about studs?
Here is some fun math:
Walls (approx)
15', 32', 32', 12', 15'
That equals 106 linear feet.
Multiply that by three (two beams on the bottom, one on top) and we have 318 feet. That is 40 standard beams.
There will need studs every 16 inches, plus 8-10 for wall ends and doors. so 106 feet times 12 inches gets us 1272 linear inches, devided by a stud every 16 inches equals 80.

So I will need a total of 130 pressure treeted 2"x4"x8' beams to stud out the entire basement.
I don't think that will fit in the 'stang.

[davefoxx]

Becasue of this, I have decided to use 1/4" drywall for the ceiling instead of the 1/2" I had planned on. The areas below the main bathroom will be sealed with Killz paint to make them more moisture resistant prior to instalation.

I think that 1/4" drywall on the ceiling, especially if not installed over something solid, e.g., another layer of drywall or plaster, is a bad idea.  It's likely going to sag between the joists and the fasteners.  There's a reason why 5/8" drywall is often recommended for ceilings.  Heavier, yes, but not a problem with a drywall lift, and this thickness will minimize sagging.

DFF

[Ike the BN Freak]

I still plan on using 1/2" green board for the walls, and have started pricing this out.

Now, how about studs?
Here is some fun math:
Walls (approx)
15', 32', 32', 12', 15'
That equals 106 linear feet.
Multiply that by three (two beams on the bottom, one on top) and we have 318 feet. That is 40 standard beams.
There will need studs every 16 inches, plus 8-10 for wall ends and doors. so 106 feet times 12 inches gets us 1272 linear inches, devided by a stud every 16 inches equals 80.

So I will need a total of 130 pressure treeted 2"x4"x8' beams to stud out the entire basement.
I don't think that will fit in the 'stang.

I'd use 24" centers for the studs, there is no reason to do 16" centers for non load bearing walls.  These are non load bearing walls correct? Just walls to cover the basement foundation walls?

[daniel_leavitt2000]

They are non-load bearing, but the local code requires 16" centers for all walls. Even though I do not plan on getting a permit, I do want it to be fully compliant.... which is why I need the strapping on the ceiling.

[LKOrailroad]

If you are placing the studs against the foundation in preparation for sheetrock then they are not considered walls. They are furring. I am not aware of any codes governing furring centers. Might save you some lumber to put your furring on 24" centers which is plenty close enough for vertical sheetrock installs.

[wazzou]

I think that 1/4" drywall on the ceiling, especially if not installed over something solid, e.g., another layer of drywall or plaster, is a bad idea.  It's likely going to sag between the joists and the fasteners.  There's a reason why 5/8" drywall is often recommended for ceilings.  Heavier, yes, but not a problem with a drywall lift, and this thickness will minimize sagging.

DFF

I couldn't agree more here.  Go with the 5/8".

[Scottl]

We used 1/4" off the ceiling joists in an early project.  It sagged noticeably.

[wazzou]

1/4" is for like, decorative stem walls or things of that nature.

[Dave Schneider]

To continue with "This Old House" addition of this thread, you might strongly consider framing in an access panel under your bathroom plumbing. I don't think that priming drywall with Kilz will cut it if you have a leak. By the time you see evidence of a leak on the ceiling beneath the bathroom, it will be too late. An access panel will give you peace of mind if nothing else, and facilitate repairs if needed. The ripping out the ceiling to fix a leak is that last thing you want to do once your RR is in place. You ARE building a RR, correct? 

Best wishes, Dave

[Ike the BN Freak]

If you are placing the studs against the foundation in preparation for sheetrock then they are not considered walls. They are furring. I am not aware of any codes governing furring centers. Might save you some lumber to put your furring on 24" centers which is plenty close enough for vertical sheetrock installs.

And if this is the case, why not use 2x3s? Get yourself an extra "2" inches in overall room width and length.

[Scottl]

2X3" are too narrow for insulation if you are using fibreglass batts, and strangely, they are more expensive than 2X4" studs.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

The studs will be about 4-6 inches from the wall. Are these still considered furring?