Design me some benchwork

[DKS]

Being incarcerated in a condo for the past 5-1/2 years, I still prefer no layout to one on a door... it's like a tease, or going to the t*ty bar and leaving with the fat waitress. I'd rather get none than settle for the best I can get.

Not sure if this is worded right... "I'd rather get none than settle for the best I can get"?

Anyway, I think it's kind of sad that you may never have a layout. I've always been of the mind that something is always better than nothing. I've had a few layout-less stretches in my life, and I also have had quite a few stretches where I had a "make-do" layout of some sort, be it a little shelf thing, a portable, a door (I've never had a door layout, but I've had similar things, and I can understand the appeal), etc. But those times when I had something to work on were always better than the times I had an empty room with some boxes of rolling stock. If I elected to never build anything unless I could have the absolute best, I think I'd never have a layout at all, ever. I say to each his own, of course, but this all-or-nothing-at-all approach just does not make much sense. Heck, the waitress might be fat, but she could be good company on a lonely night. A card game with a friend is better than just chokin' the chicken by yerself, so to speak...

[oakcreekco]

I always like the "less is more " approach to "benchwork", but not on aisle space.

I like about 18" or less for the actual "layout" on the walls for two reasons. You can do a ton in 18" or less depth, and it will cost less.

Using the above approach, and utilizing insulation foam for construction material, you'll be able to wall mount your modules or sections on simple 90^o /"L" shaped brakets. These are available at Lowe's etc and are very sturdy. Just a couple of large screws to mount each bracket to a stud. Easy to install, and easy to remove.

The same type bracket can be used for mounting upper facia/lighting.

This "approach" will let you make your scenery go "above or below" the actual brackets, so tall steel trestles or large stone viaducts or easy to fit into the track plan.

I would also suggest using the full 8' length of foam for your "module" length. No need to have it to "N" track standards

Hope that this helps a little

[lock4244]

DKS, by the close of the year (if not the summer), I'll have a basement with a house on top of it. Not sure about the house, but I've got some ideas for that basement!

I went from a 14 x 20 layout, to a 3 x 5, to nothing. I'm no stranger to privation, and nothing is survivable knowing something is coming eventually. If I knew it was a door or nothing, I bet I'd have a double decker door layout!

[bigford]

my problem is the room is 9' X 9.5  and the one car garage is full
of crap. I too do the NS so long coal drags are out

[lock4244]

my problem is the room is 9' X 9.5  and the one car garage is full
of crap. I too do the NS so long coal drags are out

Iain models the original NS... the one with the silver diesels in North Carolina, not todays NS.

[Iain]

I always like the "less is more " approach to "benchwork", but not on aisle space.

I like about 18" or less for the actual "layout" on the walls for two reasons. You can do a ton in 18" or less depth, and it will cost less.

Using the above approach, and utilizing insulation foam for construction material, you'll be able to wall mount your modules or sections on simple 90^o /"L" shaped brakets. These are available at Lowe's etc and are very sturdy. Just a couple of large screws to mount each bracket to a stud. Easy to install, and easy to remove.

The same type bracket can be used for mounting upper facia/lighting.

This "approach" will let you make your scenery go "above or below" the actual brackets, so tall steel trestles or large stone viaducts or easy to fit into the track plan.

I would also suggest using the full 8' length of foam for your "module" length. No need to have it to "N" track standards

Hope that this helps a little

I'm liking this idea.  If I do, say, six feet of the Albemarle trestle, it should be enough to give the general impression and for photography, and it would fit on the standard foam board, so I could in theory move it.  I'm thinking now that the thing to do would be to model Edenton to the division point at Marsden, with staging for Norfolk and the electric division to the north and staging for everything west of Marsden (Raleigh, etc.) and for the New Bern branch.

Marsden (Chocowinity):
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=35.516177,-77.107104&spn=0.004157,0.006856&t=h&z=17
If I model from 1964-on, I can also include the phosphate line, wich was built with heavy rail, concrete ties, etc. to make an intersting contrast to the sleepy, branchline feel of the rest of the railroad.  Of course, several 100 car trains a day pulled by three or four Baldwins or EMDs rock as well.

my problem is the room is 9' X 9.5  and the one car garage is full
of crap. I too do the NS so long coal drags are out

Iain models the original NS... the one with the silver diesels in North Carolina, not todays NS.

The Baldwins and GEs came red; it wasn't until the railroad started buyin EMDs in the 1960s that the gray scheme was introduced.

[sirenwerks]

In my one bedroom apartment, I must have no furniture covering one of my two windows in the bedroom so I can have access to it in case of a fire.  I don't know if this is a city code or just rules my complex has.  Just something to keep in mind.

Less rules of the complex or city, more common sense. Egress is always a good thing in case of fire.