Track that joins modules

[unittrain]

I have completed laying track on my 1980 Chessie System thanks to Lee on this forum for the info on wiring Atlas turnouts! Know I need to join the modules with small joiner tracks I'm considering using larger N scale rail joiners so they will slide easy on the ME code 55 rail making them easy to install. Only problem that I'm concerned about is if someone bumps into my modules and they shift slightly and break the track!! I'm going to clamp them via N-track standards with C-clamps. Will this work or is there a better way?

[seusscaboose]

clamps are temporary, hence the n-Trak concept.

if your Chessie System is a home layout why not secure them together with screws or bolt them together?

EP

[mmyers]

I'm with Eric on bolting them together. If they will always be set up in the same order, skip the c-clamps and just use nuts and bolts.
One thing to remember is to remove those connector tracks before loosening whatever is holding the modules together. I've seen some rails ripped out on NTRAK modules because someone jumped the gun and pulled the clamps first.

[wm3798]

If you're not beholden to some standard like Ntrak, I would forego the connection tracks altogether.  Run the track, secure it well near the module joints, and make sure your bolted connection is secure and stable.  Then take a Dremel, and cut the rails.  You'll have a tight, even track joint, a little bit of "clickety clack" action, and no worries about those dumb little unballasted sections.  Just use some under-table connectors to maintain electrical continuity.





I make sure everything is aligned, wired and ballasted before I cut the rails.  So far I've been pretty happy with the results.  I've got 4 or 5 more joints like that to build, it's really not too bad.  I believe Midwest Modutrak does this as well on their traveling modular layout.

Lee

[seusscaboose]

the oversized joiners are another concern.  the purpose (aside from keeping gauge) is to ensure electric connectivity in the joiner tracks which typically (i have never seen it) do not have individual power drops.  

To accomplish the "easy install" of the joiner tracks, a solution i have seen used is to trim one end of the joiner track's ties back (say 3 ties or so) and then slide the joiners all the way "down" the rail so it allows you to install the "other" end of the joiner track "as usual" and then simply drop the end with the trimmed ties (and joiners on it) into place and slide the joiners into place.

Your concern about ease would only be an issue on one end of the joiner track.

from a scenery perspective, a quick sanding down of 2 or 3 ties to "thin em up" a little and then a quick "slide em under" the gap in the ties and you should be good to go.

Martin has a good technique for ballasting joiner track "areas".  His method includes wrapping a piece of joiner track in masking tape a few times to create an "oversized piece" and then he goes to town on ballasting the area.  when complete, he pulls out the "joiner track" that was covering the intended place to set the track.  The end result is a really nice looking continuous build of ballast with a joiner track area "ready for use".  When he explained it to me, it seemed so obvious.  Then again, live and learn.

my 2 cents.

[TiVoPrince]

Back
when I didn't know better and modeled HO.  I was using these cool little Fleishmann expanding tracks (between my sectional modules) that had thier own ballast profile.  I sanded most of the ballast profile off leaving in only ties and directly related ballast. Worked teriffic for several years until I quit the HO module game.

Kato Unitrak seems to have a similar 'expansion/adjustable' track section in thier line...

[Hiroe]

Kato Unitrak seems to have a similar 'expansion/adjustable' track section in thier line...

Trust me, those are *not* worth bothering with. Kato sliced the running rails with a lengthwise slipjoint down the center of the railhead, so when you extend it to fill a space, you're left with an area of overly-wide gauge. I've seen people try to use them on the mains at Ntrak setups, and they don't last long before the majority of runners come through and replace them with standard joiners.

[seusscaboose]

Quick Question regarding using them for N-Trak modules...  were they used "at full extension" or "only a minimum distance" (i.e. less than .25 of an inch).

I would think that using them a minimal distance (far less then they were designed for) would limit the "thin rail" issue to a large extent.

At least that has been my experience.

I agree thin rails are not good, however i never had operational issues (only one man's experience, i am sure some people do have those issues)

I would think N-Trak module level issues PLUS thin rails could have potentially a deal breaker for unitrack solutions.

sorry for hacking the thread.

EP

[Hiroe]

I don't recall the precise details of the math, but i do remember that they were unreliable to the point of necessitating replacement.  Of course, YMMV.

[mcjaco]

If I believe Midwest Modutrak does this as well on their traveling modular layout.

We run our track right to the end.  The leg sets are a "pre" clamp, and the we use c clamps to tighten them up.

Skibbe or Jamie can probably get more detail specific. 

[Denver Road Doug]

Quick Question regarding using them for N-Trak modules...  were they used "at full extension" or "only a minimum distance" (i.e. less than .25 of an inch).

I would think that using them a minimal distance (far less then they were designed for) would limit the "thin rail" issue to a large extent.

At least that has been my experience.

I agree thin rails are not good, however i never had operational issues (only one man's experience, i am sure some people do have those issues)

I would think N-Trak module level issues PLUS thin rails could have potentially a deal breaker for unitrack solutions.

The club I belonged to in the early 2000's used these and had ZERO problems with them.  I was amazed at how well they worked, in fact.   The difference in gauge is negligible, and certainly no worse than the wide Peco turnouts.  And talk about quick setup....I HIGHLY recommend the Kato expansion tracks.  They've now used them for well over 10 years without major incident.

Extension was somewhere near the middle to last 1/3 of the range, but definitely closer to full extension than minimum.

[seusscaboose]

Doug

Which Club was that (please).

I would like to reference it in our Club's discussions.

thanks (in advance)

Eric

[wazzou]

I do similarly to what Lee has done but, I widen the slot on smallish standard screw heads, enough so that the base of the rail fits snug in the grooves, screw them into the sub-roadbed to a point that the rails can be soldered in those grooves.  Ballast like normal, hardly notice them.

[Denver Road Doug]

Which Club was that (please).

I would like to reference it in our Club's discussions.

North Texas N-Trak Club in Irving, TX.  Their modules are N-Trak spec track spacing and can be incorporated into N-Trak setups (although I'm not sure if they ever have) but they are "narrow" modules. (14" maybe?)   Their thing is running LOOONG trains...the modules themselves are very basic, very little scenery.  But they are popular at the shows running 120 car freight trains and long passenger sets.  They've actually added a fourth track now just to have more trains running.  (not N-Trak spec)

I can put you in touch with some of the active members if you want additional testimony.

[seusscaboose]

no need... the name of the Club is enough!
thanks Doug!