Weekend Update - 10/18/09

[NorfolkSouthern9708]

Or just send it to you... 

[Zox]

I added a layer of foamcore to the north-end scenery on my bridge module, to bring it up to the correct height:

[Midniteflyer]

Still working on scenery on my modules...................

[sizemore]

I've been getting in the WAR ROOM between putting in a 100hr's per pay period so time to make a post after a couple months.

Just a mockup of the bridge on the BYR, its a Walthers Overpass, but I'm converting it to concrete opposed to steel truss.

I am attempting to make a mold of a coupler pocket but I doubt it will work...not to mention it's taking forever.

ACME Labs Locomotive Works received GP-20's from the Laurel Valley for repainting here they are getting their original paint removed before body and paintwork.

The S.

[Guilford Guy]

Is it a crime to strip a N&W locomotive of its paint? Or does that just apply to Conrail?

[Catt]

My contribution for this week is a N scale version of the Wisconsin & Southern Breast Cancer awareness boxcar.It is by Micro-Trains and just like Athearn MTL is making a donation for Breast Cancer research just like Athearn did for the HO car.



 These cars are inportant to me because my wife is a Ovarian Cancer survivor.

[Ian MacMillan]

I'm still stuck at Penn Station...so I havent done a damn thing....

Oh wait...I did get some street trackage done on the Pemi Industrial Track before I left for Philly.

[Chris333]

That twitching is Youtube. I just watched the original on my computer and it is fine. In person the locomotive runs very smooth.

The capacitor/flywheel will only work up to 5.5 volts and from what I hear it may blow out if used in both directions. It is just like momentum. At 5.5V it will do a whole lap on that oval with the power cut off. At less voltage it shorter.

If a Nn3 layout ever shows up it will just be a small loop display so the "train" will only go one way and will be powered by 4 AA batteries in a Tomytec controller:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Tetsudou-Collection-Tram-Type-Controller-Green-Tomytec_W0QQitemZ360199671028QQcmdZViewItemQQptZModel_RR_Trains?hash=item53dd92ccf4

Just another fun project that will sit on a shelf after it's done...

[altohorn25]

Here's what I did this weekend.  Took two stock Kato E9's and improved them.  I removed all the factory lettering with the exception of the MILW heralds and replaced with Microscale decals.  I also filled in the green on the upper nose so that it goes all the way to the cab window as per prototype.  Installed decoders, changed couplers to MT on the noses and unimates on the rears, and put on a light coat of weathering.  Now they're ready for my Afternoon Hiawatha.


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[Dupesy]

Hey Ian, where did you get that soldering unit?  :

[C855B]

Here's what I did this weekend.  Took two stock Kato E9's and improved them.  I removed all the factory lettering with the exception of the MILW heralds and replaced with Microscale decals.  I also filled in the green on the upper nose so that it goes all the way to the cab window as per prototype.  Installed decoders, changed couplers to MT on the noses and unimates on the rears, and put on a light coat of weathering.  Now they're ready for my Afternoon Hiawatha.

Looks good, Nate.

Exactly how did you remove the factory lettering? I've seen a bunch of generic advice about removing Kato lettering, but have been really reticent about doing it to my own fleet after seeing pictures of marginal work where you can easily see the paint damage. Your re-lettering looks great, so, clearly, you have it down.

[altohorn25]

Looks good, Nate.

Exactly how did you remove the factory lettering? I've seen a bunch of generic advice about removing Kato lettering, but have been really reticent about doing it to my own fleet after seeing pictures of marginal work where you can easily see the paint damage. Your re-lettering looks great, so, clearly, you have it down.
[/quote]

I just used a bright boy to scrub off the factory lettering (took a while and I was careful, but it works pretty well without taking much of the underlying paint with it).  I have also used on some of my other kato units some rubbing alchohol (the stronger %).  Even with the light rubbing, it took just a shade of the yellow paint off.  I touched it up with the brush (model flex armour yellow) and you couldn't even tell.  It looked good before I weathered it and after the weathering, you really can't tell.  Hope this helps you out.

[cv_acr]

Spent a couple of hours on Saturday running trains at the club for our fall open house, and some time on Sunday adding some photos to my freight car website. Other than that, not too much for me.

[Iain]

Chris, to solve the capacitors blowing up if you apply voltage in the wrong direction, use a diode between the wheels and cap/motor.

For 5.5 volts, use a 5v voltage regulator between your controller and track.

[Ian MacMillan]

Hey Ian, where did you get that soldering unit?  :

Oddly...I have no clue what you're talking about ... I'm still keeping it up here to get you to come up!