Grafitti Decals S*ck!

[ljudice]

I consider myself a pretty accomplished decaller - I can get almost any decal down on a surface nearly perfectly every time - and I've been doing it for many years.

But these Microscale Grafitti decals are something else (Blair line seem to be the same, BTW, if not worse).  With the exception of the single color ones - they appear to be printed with a process that makes them much thicker - I guess it's the extra layers of ink. But I've used other decals with multiple colors and never the same problems. Most have a white background, which I suspect is the major culprit since it is very thick to block the underlying color.

At any rate they are impossible to get over ribs without a lot of cutting and slicing, which in the end sometimes ends up destroying the decal.

I use Micro-Sol, which I thought was the strongest softener - anything out there which is stronger?

Thanks!

[bigford]

try solvaset i heard it was stronger. i had the same problem with
micro's norfolk southern diesel set

[TiVoPrince]

Little wonder
I make my own grafitti decals...

[Dave V]

My favorite grafitti is on a wall in Richmond, VA, visible from Amtrak....



I'd always told my wife after I finished my PhD that should be my new nickname.

[chuck geiger]

I found a new way to spit up beer through my nose after reading that Dave.

[Bob Bufkin]

And the whole time you thought it was you gall bladder causing the pain.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

I am having the same problem with my Alaska RR set. The decal would not coontour to the rivet strips on my F7. I finally used solvast, but it distorted the "L" a bit. This is my 3rd attempt to decal the unit so i'm gong to keep it, but it annoys the hell out of me.


BTW I can't find Solvast on the Walthers website. Anyone know of a good alternative?

[Pomperaugrr]

My favorite grafitti is on a wall in Richmond, VA, visible from Amtrak....



I'd always told my wife after I finished my PhD that should be my new nickname.

They sell topical creams that can help you with that condition!   

Eric

[Bob Horn]

Lou, I have finally run out of my bottle of Solvaset with the glass applicator that I think I got at our favorite train store in Piscataway over 30 years ago. The new Solvaset with the brush seems to make the decals "float" or shift  some times. Do not really have a good answer. Bob.

[ljudice]

hey thanks - thought it was me!

I'll give a try to solvaset - the distortion isn't quite as much a problem with grafitti I suspect...

Speaking of grafitti - although some of it is pretty elaborate - a lot of it seems to be just mindless tagging - usually with one color. (I submit Dr. Hotballs as evidence) Everyone seems to ignore this type.

This stuff would be much easier to conform on a model I suspect.

[MrKLUKE]

.

[Walkercolt]

Try using Micro-Sol (to position the decal) then Solvaset. Straight Solvaset will dissolve some decals totally. Now 25+ years ago,we used Heet linament liquid to melt-down the cardboard thick Revell aircraft decals. Don't try it today, or you'll have decal jelly. Find a diabetic and grab a few used micro-syringes or "pen" needles. If you're nutsy, put them in some 50-50 bleach/water mix for 10 minutes then rinse them, or just pour some rubbing alcohol on them. You can make micro holes or use the "edge" of the needle to slit decals and put more Solvaset on them. The decals will settle-down, and you can't see the holes under a 10x loupe. I'm a good source for the super-tiny 31 gauge B-D pen needles, just give me some notice so I'll keep the needle protector and I'll sterilize them. These are MUCH smaller than a #80 drill, and are SHARP!

[Kisatchie]

I've used Champ Decal Set with good success.

http://www.minot.com/champ/other.htm

It's pretty strong, although Champ toned the strength down years ago.

[SkipGear]

I have had best luck with the Microscale product.

Apply the decal with Microsol and then let it dry completely.

After the decal has dried, apply the Microset. Brush it on heavy, one stroke only, then walk away,
leaving the decal face up so that gravity does it's best to help the process. Again, let the decal dry
completely.

If that is not enough, I will try 2-3 more applications, each time letting the decal dry before the next
application. 95% of the time that will settle the decal in.

If that doesn't get it then I will try one last time, but blotting the decal with a wet paper towel to help
press it into the details. You have to be careful to not shift the paper towel. I usually just roll over the
with my thumb behind the towel or fold it over one corner of the model to hold it in place.

The only time I cut a decal is between the joints on wood sided cars or over seams of hatch doors.

[TiVoPrince]

Really
this was rather easy.  The texture of the blocks makes the name pop so i worked around it.  Possible to just do a blackline (spraycan) but it looked a bit raw.  Natively it scaled out to about 20 Nscale feet long so I left it undisturbed.  Trimmed the black lines kind of close so it scales well but you could fill in some thin areas with a gel pen if that is the look you wanted.  This seemed a lot cooler and could be applied to rolling stock for a more "artistic' look and feel if desired...