IM F-7 Digitrax DN163

[sizemore]

Wired like the diagram yellow/green etc, programmed and still no lights...help!

[wcfn100]

First of all why a 6 function decoder for an F unit?  ???

If you are wiring one light, generally the wires used would be white (F0 forward) and blue.  A second light could use yellow  (F0 reverse) and blue.   You can, of course, use whatever wire you want, but it'll be paired with the blue wire.  I don't know what you mean by "yellow/green".

Anyway, if you are using and LED w/resistor for the light you may have the polarity reversed.

Jason

[wcfn100]

Ok, I guess I can assume you mean the DN163I1c for the IM units.

Did you test the bulb, does it work without the decoder?

Did you test the function pads to make sure they work?

Jason

[wm3798]

I nuked the first one I did with a solder blob.  Everything else worked, but I killed the light function.  Ended up taking a Model Power street light apart and hardwiring the bulb to the screws you mount the board with.  Loses the directional function, but I've never really considered that more than a convenience when switching.  I've never seen a prototypical engine where the headlight cuts off when reversing direction.

In my B units I just hardwire a DZ125 to the factory light board after cutting the appropriate strips to isolate the motor.

Lee

[sizemore]

I nuked the first one I did with a solder blob.  Everything else worked, but I killed the light function.  Ended up taking a Model Power street light apart and hardwiring the bulb to the screws you mount the board with.  Loses the directional function, but I've never really considered that more than a convenience when switching.  I've never seen a prototypical engine where the headlight cuts off when reversing direction.

In my B units I just hardwire a DZ125 to the factory light board after cutting the appropriate strips to isolate the motor.

Lee

Well now I have a B-unit decoder.... Are they really that sensitive? I tinned the connection, then retinned the wire...then got the tip hot so all that was needed was a touch of the soldering iron.... I was thinking about using the DZ125, however I lower the shells on the chassis (so they dont sit like 4*4's plus those grills/fans should be changed on the 200 series) so I'd have to mill the frame just a lil.

DCC (as simple as it's supposed to be) is ANNOYING.

T

[wm3798]

Get over it, Timmah!

Lee

[sizemore]

Get over it, Timmah!

Lee

KMA  ;D.  You'd cry too if it was your $60 clams to end up with two stinking B unit decoders!

[wcfn100]

"I nuked the first one I did with a solder blob.  Everything else worked, but I killed the light function.  Ended up taking a Model Power street light apart and hardwiring the bulb to the screws you mount the board with.  Loses the directional function, but I've never really considered that more than a convenience when switching.  I've never seen a prototypical engine where the headlight cuts off when reversing direction."


This makes no sense as there are 5 other function pads you could use for the headlight.  ???

Now that you bring this up, I think I nuked one of the functions on an FT board and had to go to an alternate output and just remapped the function so it worked just like the other units.

"then got the tip hot so all that was needed was a touch of the soldering iron"

Having the soldering iron blazing hot isn't a great thing.  Too much heat can delaminate the traces on the board.  And soldering too quickly can create a cold joint.


Jason


Jason

[wm3798]

Jason said "Now that you bring this up, I think I nuked one of the functions on an FT board and had to go to an alternate output and just remapped the function so it worked just like the other units."

Those words you said must mean something to someone.  Not to me, unfortunately!  It took less time to install a lightbulb (and it only took one of me!) than to learn enough about electronics to carry out your instructions...

Lee

[wcfn100]

Those words you said must mean something to someone.  Not to me, unfortunately!  It took less time to install a lightbulb (and it only took one of me!) than to learn enough about electronics to carry out your instructions..."


Yeah, I guess something like that would be for someone who has more time than money to spend on the hobby right now.

Jason

[wm3798]

It didn't take any money!  I had the lightbulb laying around in the junk box!

Lee

[sizemore]

This makes no sense as there are 5 other function pads you could use for the headlight.  ???

Now that you bring this up, I think I nuked one of the functions on an FT board and had to go to an alternate output and just remapped the function so it worked just like the other units.

Well DCC Swami don't hold out, tell us how you remapped the function....

"then got the tip hot so all that was needed was a touch of the soldering iron"

Having the soldering iron blazing hot isn't a great thing.  Too much heat can delaminate the traces on the board.  And soldering too quickly can create a cold joint.

Jason

I didnt state blazing hot, I stated hot. Like I stated before I tinned the contacts -so that I wouldnt have to leave the iron on the board and well delaminate it. Which has lead me to the board to see if others have had the same issue with the lights, maybe I did something wrong...maybe I didnt and have a bad board....

Yeah, I guess something like that would be for someone who has more time than money to spend on the hobby right now.

Jason

I must have a lot of money, as I dont have much time.

T

[wcfn100]

"Well DCC Swami don't hold out, tell us how you remapped the function.... "


I just follow the instructions.

http://www.digitrax.com/ftp/remap.pdf


Jason

[sizemore]

I just did two more and acheived wonderful B-Unit decoders. On the second I got crafty and soldered the LED's leads to a the F0R/F0R+ swapped values for 33/34 and it worked. After I reassembled the loco...no lights. WTF. I tinkered. Negative contact works, positive is MIA for the count. Any ideas on why this is burning out (outside of solder)?

[wcfn100]

"Negative contact works, positive is MIA for the count."

How did you test that?

OK, nevermind, I forgot that board has multiple + pads.

Jason