Track realignment?

[Erik W]

I need some feedback from you guys.  When I designed and laid the track on my layout, the only Atlas code 55 turnouts available were straight #5s and #7s.  I have a section coming off the end of my yard that never quite looked right to me and because of the need to use a straight turnout; it shortened two of the yard tracks that would ideally be longer. 

So, I'd like to use one of these curved Atlas code 55 turnouts

to replace the left most turnout is in this photo.


The curve at the far left is 18" radius but if I use the curved turnout at the base of the curve, the 21" radius of the turnout would effectively be an easement into the curve.  I would then be able to move the above right turnout farther to the left which would make the two yard tracks a fair amount longer.  I would leave the lower turnout where it is since the track is for a passenger station siding where the length is not an issue.  I think in general this would just look better and I'd gain extra yard length.  What are your thoughts?

My other question is in regards to the stub yard ends.  Do you think it looks better as is or should I lengthen some of those track a bit, if so which ones? 

Erik

[Chris333]

If you used the curved turnout you might need to rip up the whole yard to get it to fit. Everything would shift a hair. I think it would look better, but do you wanna go through all of that?

[davefoxx]

Erik,

I would not hesitate to replace that ladder with a new ladder, starting with a curved turnout.  The easement will be a good thing, assuming you can make the turn without having to tighten the radius in the curve to fit the easement in.  As you pointed out, you could extend the body tracks, which is a good thing, if you need to add capacity.

As far as the stub tracks, I would extend the tracks, again, if capacity is an issue.  If not, I might find another use for that space.  Look to prototype yards and locomotive facilities for inspiration on all of the "other" equipment lying around the yards.

Hope this helps,
Dave Foxx

[Ed Kapuscinski]

How does the yard "work"? I think that'll tell you if you need the capacity. Otherwise, if it's just for looks, I'd say leave the straight ones, I think they're more prototypical.

[Chris333]

The adjustment would be something like this:

The red is 18" and the yellow is 21.25" & 15". To get both straight tracks to line up at the same spot (off page to the right) you would need to shift the angle of all yard track. It is just a little.

Sorry the drawing is so dark CAD only exports in bitmaps and once they get converted are lower res.

[Erik W]

The adjustment would be something like this:

The red is 18" and the yellow is 21.25" & 15". To get both straight tracks to line up at the same spot (off page to the right) you would need to shift the angle of all yard track. It is just a little.

Sorry the drawing is so dark CAD only exports in bitmaps and once they get converted are lower res.

Chris,

Yeah, that was my main reservation.  It's hard to visualize how this would work (or not work) geometrically speaking.  That drawing helps.  If I have to do more then pull up the two turnouts and a section of the main where the curved tunrout would go, I think I'll pass.

Erik

[DKS]

If you used the curved turnout you might need to rip up the whole yard to get it to fit. Everything would shift a hair. I think it would look better, but do you wanna go through all of that?

I don't think you need to get that radical. If the curved track leading into the switch was realigned a bit, that might be all that was needed. And it looks like there's enough real estate to adjust the position of the arc. A slightly wider angle photo would tell for sure.

[Chris333]

The problem is the 21.25" radius. There is no way you can make if fit in a 18" curve, but this will work:
http://www.handlaidtrack.com/templates/tt-n-r-8-18-14.pdf
18"/14".

Or:
http://www.handlaidtrack.com/templates/tt-n-r-10-18-15.pdf
18"/15"

If you realigned the curve then the Atlas TO would work, but the curve might not end up being 18"R any more.

[Chris333]

If you do what David is talking about and leave the angle of your yard tracks as they are, just couple the Atlas TO right to the main yard track and go 18" curve off of the TO you would get something like this in blue:

That shifts the curve to the left about 1.68" but looks to line up pretty good up at the top so it may work. To offset the 1.68" you could cut the straight yard track back that much so that the new curve would end up the same distance from the layouts edge. You would probably need to adjust the TO going to the furniture factory:
http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/500/acx_1_.jpg
You may also be able to use two curved TOs and get even more room, but more tweaking.

I just sort of guessed here since I don't know the total length of the Atlas TOs, but it gives an estimate and the curves are drawn to scale.

[oakcreekco]

I remember seeing in Omaha somewhere, a "curved" yard that just followed the lay of the land.

It always interested me, and I think that the curved turnout you're looking at would model nicely through your scene.

Hard to decide for you I'm sure, but I really like your idea.

[Erik W]

I agree with Chris on this.  I think the difference between the 18" radius and the 21.25" radius is big enough it would call for either a mainline curve realignment (which I don't want to do due to space limitations on the edge of the layout) or a realignment in the yard.   

Operationally, if those two yard tracks were longer it would be greatly beneficial.  The more I think about it, the more I want to add a curved turnout there.  I think the conclusion I've come to is to hand lay my own with an 18" outside diameter.  Ultimately this would be less time consuming and less difficult (I hope) than tearing up and relaying so much track.  I would build it in place. 

That said, I've got lots of info on handlaying turnouts and all the different philosophies and techniques.  Do any of you hand layers out there have advice for a detail oriented modeler who only needs to hand lay 1 turnout?  Meaning, what's my best plan of attack without buying jigs or tools I'll only use once.

This would be one of those "sometime in the future" projects.  I'm working on scenery now, literally, in between checking this thread and eating girl scout cookies.

Erik

[Hyperion]

I remember seeing in Omaha somewhere, a "curved" yard that just followed the lay of the land.

It always interested me, and I think that the curved turnout you're looking at would model nicely through your scene.

Hard to decide for you I'm sure, but I really like your idea.

The BNSF yard in Omaha is sort of curved:

http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Omaha,+NE&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&ie=UTF8&split=0&gl=us&ei=h3agSdurKdrG-Qa_u9m1Dg&ll=41.227886,-95.915505&spn=0.005995,0.013947&t=h&z=17

It's actually as perfect a yard to model as probably exists anywhere.  It's small enough to be portrayed semi-accurately, has unique and pretty geography (it's along a leveed riverbank very green around it, with a several hundred feet sheer cliff on the opposite side, unusual for the Midwest), has a small intermodal facility, an even smaller automotive facility, work equipment storage, a single-track RIP, and (until recently) a single locomotive service track and even a turntable.

[Hyperion]

I agree with Chris on this.  I think the difference between the 18" radius and the 21.25" radius is big enough it would call for either a mainline curve realignment (which I don't want to do due to space limitations on the edge of the layout) or a realignment in the yard.   

Operationally, if those two yard tracks were longer it would be greatly beneficial.  The more I think about it, the more I want to add a curved turnout there.  I think the conclusion I've come to is to hand lay my own with an 18" outside diameter.  Ultimately this would be less time consuming and less difficult (I hope) than tearing up and relaying so much track.  I would build it in place. 

That said, I've got lots of info on handlaying turnouts and all the different philosophies and techniques.  Do any of you hand layers out there have advice for a detail oriented modeler who only needs to hand lay 1 turnout?  Meaning, what's my best plan of attack without buying jigs or tools I'll only use once.

This would be one of those "sometime in the future" projects.  I'm working on scenery now, literally, in between checking this thread and eating girl scout cookies.

Erik

For just one?

Buy it on eBay. 

This user:  http://stores.ebay.com/JSW-custom-trains_N-scale-track-Atlas-code-55_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ19186729QQftidZ2QQtZkm

... sells FastTrack built turnouts of all varying sorts and sizes, though he doesn't have any listed right now that are the dimensions you're looking for.  Some of his listings refer to FastTrack being "his" site, so I presume he's affiliated there somehow.  I'm sure you can email him and ask.  His prices are somewhat reasonable as well, with his curved turnouts being in the $35-ish range as I recall.

[DKS]

I tend to think the engineers here are over-engineering the problem. I do not think the curve needs to be displaced much at all; when you shift the turnout along the line of the yard track ~1.68 inches or whatever to the right, the curve on the left only needs to be gently displaced in order to accommodate the change in tangent at the turnout.



You might end up with some portion of the curve that has maybe a fraction of an inch less than an 18-inch radius, but this will not have any adverse impact on appearance or function. Trust me, using CAD to answer a question like this can sometimes make an insignifcant issue seem like a mountain. This kind of problem is better solved by eyeballing it, IMO.

[Erik W]

Even though I may be able to get the Atlas turnout to fit, the easiest option might be to spend the extra 20 bucks (more than the Atlas curved turnout) for this   http://cgi.ebay.com/N-scale-8-LH-curved-switch-Fast-Tracks-18-rad-code-55_W0QQitemZ370030887597QQihZ024QQcategoryZ19121QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262   as Hyperion suggested.

Erik