BNSF's Wenatchee to Quincy, Wa "Spud Local"

[Robbman]

The M4D reefer is the PC&F reefer the NRDX ColdTrain reefers were rebuilt from... also good for PC&F R-70-19 through R-70-25 classes (the funky roof... earlier classes were similar, just with a peaked roof)...

I haven't really tried to compile a roster... here's what I do have:


PFE/UPFE/UPRX/SPFE obviously the largest owner... PFE bought 3000, UPFE and SPFE each bought 600 after the PFE split.

The original ARMN had a few (maybe 25), but since all their classes got lumped into a single UPFE number series, with no order.. I don't know how many

The reincarnated ARMN, i.e, UP, has a boatload of rebuilt former UPFE cars.

SPFE sold at least 450 cars to FGE, these had the FGMR mars on them... they also sold some 180 to REMX, and 140 to San Luis Central (SLC)

Right before the UP/SP merger, they sold another 400 to Greenbrier, these became the Golden West Srvice (VCY) cars... 200 of these came back to UPFE



NPM/WFCX/BNFE had 700... 400 bought new by BNFE, 50 coming from NP, and the rest from GN.

Sante Fe had 400 as well (SFRC)... BNSF sold 15 of them to SLC... these may be the BNSF marked cars today.


Milwaukee Road had 200... 60 sold to SLC.

BAR had 100.. all to Wisconsin & Southern, who sold 50 to Green Bay & Western

Soo Line had a whopping 10...

Great Lakes Central, under Tuscola & Saginaw Bay has at least 10... somebody's former cars (UPFE?)

Wisconsin Central has/had some... 11xxx series... unknown how many or where from.

[Sokramiketes]

Awesome info Robb.  I was going to be searching for BNSF stand-in's next so I'll have to track down the BNFE/SLC/BNSF series.  Good to know they are perfect for ColdTrain.  I know you're busy working up the energy to mail caboose drawings... but maybe you want to cut out the end and add a reefer unit to the Inventor model???  Should build OK with the enclosed end down and reefer/cutout to the top? I'm an outcome based modeler now...

[Sokramiketes]

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=779399

May still need a BNFE example anyway... Spud Local in Quincy, WA

[Sokramiketes]

Playing with decals on a second GP35... trying to make the lead unit a whiteface by modifying the stock MTL scheme. 



Not too bad, though a slightly smaller nose logo would be better.  BN nose logo is from an ED Models decal set.  BNSF cab lettering is from the Micro Scale HO BNSF patch set.  Hood numbers are from the MS N BNSF patch set.  White pin stripe is also from Micro Scale. 

[shamoo737]

Mike, Robert made some BN decals for the GP39M. I think those would be a better choice. Talking about GP35s, I just received a H1. It looks great.

[Sokramiketes]

Up to 42 decals...



Still have to do the individual numbers in the numberboards, but I wanted to play with the weathering first. 

[shamoo737]

Looks good, Mike. I see you added a lot of details to the engine.

On the reefers, you do know about the one from MK4D. It looks very close to the one from the picture.

[Sokramiketes]

Looks good, Mike. I see you added a lot of details to the engine.

On the reefers, you do know about the one from MK4D. It looks very close to the one from the picture.

Thanks!

I did pick up two of the M4D reefers.  They're really nice, though I'm trying to decide on the best way to remove some of the leftover 'goo' on the shells.  Did you do anything to prep yours?  Some of the detail is filled in, and I'm hoping a stiff toothbrush and some soapy water will do the trick without harming the acrylic body.

[wcfn100]

They're really nice, though I'm trying to decide on the best way to remove some of the leftover 'goo' on the shells.

There was a post on Trainboard that specifically mentioned a cleaner for RP stuff, but I'll be damned if I can find it.

If I can find the post, I'll link it here.


Jason

[wcfn100]

Ok, found it.

http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?t=108336&highlight=rapid+prototyping&page=11

http://papercement.com/bestine.html


I haven't had a chance to get to buy any yet.


Jason

[shamoo737]

Mike, I didnt do anything to the car to clean it up. It was already clean. I did have couple of cars that were deform, and Mark replace it. In his defence, its hard to see the defects in the its rp orange color. I dont think its a waxy substance that you can clean up.

[Robbman]

Thanks!

I did pick up two of the M4D reefers.  They're really nice, though I'm trying to decide on the best way to remove some of the leftover 'goo' on the shells.  Did you do anything to prep yours?  Some of the detail is filled in, and I'm hoping a stiff toothbrush and some soapy water will do the trick without harming the acrylic body.

I used a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol... after making sure the shell is clean and free of goo... sit it in the sun for a few hours (or under a UV lamp if you want to speed it up)

[Sokramiketes]

I used a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol... after making sure the shell is clean and free of goo... sit it in the sun for a few hours (or under a UV lamp if you want to speed it up)

Yeah, there's a bit of a stickyness that the UV should take care of, but I'm worried about pulling out all the half cured goo, especially in the end ribs, without wiping out too much detail.  I'll try the alcohol first, then up to more drastic measures.  Though the rubber cement thinner sounds like it would be for processes, other than Perfactory, which leave a wax behind.  The M4D parts just leave some uncured acrylic goo in the crevises.     

[Robbman]

Don't worry too much about wiping away detail... there shouldn't be any half-cured detail at all.

[DKS]

I used a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol... after making sure the shell is clean and free of goo... sit it in the sun for a few hours (or under a UV lamp if you want to speed it up)

Yeah, there's a bit of a stickyness that the UV should take care of, but I'm worried about pulling out all the half cured goo, especially in the end ribs, without wiping out too much detail.  I'll try the alcohol first, then up to more drastic measures.  Though the rubber cement thinner sounds like it would be for processes, other than Perfactory, which leave a wax behind.  The M4D parts just leave some uncured acrylic goo in the crevises.    

Rubber cement thinner should work quite well. I use it all the time. Since it dissolves the wax more effectively than alcohol, you can use a softer brush, so you'll have less chance of doing any mechanical harm to the model. Some details are fine enough that you can easily break them off with a toothbrush. Also, you can be fooled into thinking the solvent has harmed the surface; actually, what's happening is that the surface becomes so clean that you may see the "raster lines" of the RP machine, depending on what kind it is. Here's an example from MakeMyModel (now defunct); their products were kind of crude-looking owing to the low-res machine they used. When their products were thoroughly cleaned, they looked like they were carved out of old driftwood--