Author Topic: N&W E2a "(& WM K-2) Pacific kitbash thoughts  (Read 9937 times)

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Chris333

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Re: N&W E2a "(& WM K-2) Pacific kitbash thoughts
« Reply #45 on: December 13, 2008, 07:31:47 PM »
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Hey don't forget that wide mouth smoke stack!

RLW W-3 parts:

GHQ_55-010/11-01 Cab parts complete $20.00     
GHQ_55-010/11-02 Cab roof $3.00     
GHQ_55-010/11-03 Cab floor $3.00     
GHQ_55-010/11-04 Engineer Cab side $3.00     
GHQ_55-010/11-05 Fireman Cab side $3.00     
GHQ_55-010/11-06 Engineers cab side w/recess $3.00     
GHQ_55-010/11-07 Fireman cab side w/recess $3.00     
GHQ_55-010/11-08 Windows/Eng Walkway $3.00     
GHQ_55-010/11-09 Cab Awning/air filter $3.00 
« Last Edit: December 13, 2008, 07:39:16 PM by Chris333 »

wm3798

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Re: N&W E2a "(& WM K-2) Pacific kitbash thoughts
« Reply #46 on: December 13, 2008, 07:52:22 PM »
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Looks like your boiler is pretty spot on, with just a few bits of "jewelry" to set it apart.

If the spoked wheels are available, I'd go for it.  That's a pretty key identifier for that locomotive...
Tell me, how does the pick up work in the MP drive?  It looks similar to the Rivarossi in dimensions...

Lee
Rockin' It Old School

Lee Weldon www.wmrywesternlines.net

brokemoto

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Re: N&W E2a "(& WM K-2) Pacific kitbash thoughts
« Reply #47 on: December 13, 2008, 09:55:32 PM »
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One of those detail manufacturers does make the domes.  It looks like you will have to get rid of that USRA sand dome.  You may get away with doing a 'bondo-job' on the USRA steam dome:  build it up and sand it to give it the rounded off top.

The tender pick-up on the RR and MP are the same.  This is why I complain about MP's '1970s construction methods'.

The Bachpersonn tender should improve the performance and pulling power of this locomotive.  I have not affixed a B-mann tender to a MP pacific or mikado, but I have affixed same to MP eight-wheeler and mogul.  It makes a real winner out of the mogul.

I did get away with using the MP drawbar on the eight-wheeler, but I did have to fashion a new drawbar for the moguls.  I only did it for one. I did use the stock MP drawbar on the other one, but the gap between tender and locomotive reminds of the LL berkshire.  At some point, I will have to rectify it. 

The contact strips in the Bachmann tender are held onto the tender floor by nubs.  The ends are melted and flared to retain the strips  If you do not want to R/R them and do not want to risk ruining the tender by soldering while the strips are still in place, you can get away with jamming wire under the contact strips.  Kato has a much better system.  You can remove the strips from the tender after you remove the retaining clip.  There are, of course, other possibilities.  You could use some very small nut/bolt sets or even glue.  I would shy from the latter, as you may need to remove the strips at some point down the track.