Kato L-1 Conversion

[Bob Bufkin]

I've decided to make the jump and try and do a Kato L-1 conversion.  I've ordered the engine and the conversion kit.  I know some of you have done this.  Any thoughts on how hard this it and what I should know before I start.

I've never tried a conversion like this before so any help would be appreciated.

Bob

[71jeep]

Hi Bob...

Here is a good link to Jerrry Britton sites on the conversion http://kc.pennsyrr.com/model/ghq_l1/index.php

I have three of these but have not had a chance to finish one yet , They are next on my list.



Allen......

[Dave V]

Patience.  Lotsa patience.  Otherwise, fairly straightforward.

I used the Max Magliaro optical fiber trick to illuminate the headlight.  I drilled a large hole into the headlight casting, and then a smaller one at 45 degrees down through the smokebox and inserted a fiber optic thread.  I used a soldering iron to flatten the outside end of the fiber optic and form a "lens."  Be careful not to actually touch the iron to the fiber optic.

[Bob Bufkin]

Just what I needed.  A great thanks.  Since these were a regular on the Cumberland Valley line, I definately need at least one.

[Chris333]

I've never built one, but the parting line running through the center of the tender seems like the hardest part. Did the lastest release of this kit fix that?

[Dave V]

Yes, apparently the new release has a resin tender casting that eliminates that frustrating seam.

[Bob Bufkin]

Before Iforget, are there any special tools I should have to help this along? 

[Dave V]

Just the usual...

Pin vise with micro drill bits, tweezers, good sharp hobby knife, jeweler's screwdivers, jeweler's files, soldering iron, CA glue, etc.  You'll also want some tape on hand to insulate the metal boiler from the frame.  I used a few layers of transparent tape, but if you have Kapton tape, that's great.  Electrical tape is too thick in this case.

Good luck!!!

[Bob Bufkin]

Thanks Dave.  I have most of those.  Need to get some of the tape.  Be awhile before the parts arrive and I've got several other things to do ahead of it anyhow. 

[3rdrail]

IIRC, GHQ recommends using .040 styrene to isolate the shell from the frame, drilling and tapping 00-90 for a screw to hold the styrene to the frame and another drill and tap of 00-90 to hold the shell to the styrene. I got to that point, had no .040" styrene and stopped. Later got the styrene when visiting my daughter but have not yet resumed assembly.

[Kiasutha]

Guys:
I'm assuming this kit is meant to build up as these locos appeared fairly late in their careers/transition era; yes?
If so, how hard would it be to back-date them to the "as-built, up to the late twenties" era? I'm no "expert" on Pennsy steam.
I know, that still covers a lot of time too, but it's a start...

I bought 2 Kato Mikes for this a long time ago, but never got the kits; one reason being I felt they would make my minitrix based Hippo's look anemic. Hippo's gone now, so...
I'd still rather have the I1 or H8/9/10, but GHQ seems to feel sales were so sluggish on the L1 that it isn't worth the effort.
Too bad. There's no easy chassis for the I1, but I'd think with the Spectrum Consol around, the H class would do quite well.

BTW-what is the soldering iron for? Nothing pewter I hope!

JimR.

[Dave V]

I used the soldering iron for the headlight trick using fiber optic.  I assembled the kit using gap-filling CA.

[dougnelson]

Hi Bob:
Like Dave said, its a fair amount of work, but nothing extraordinarily difficult.  The Kato Mikado is an excellent runner, and with the added weight of the boiler and tender, the pickup is even better.  My L1 is one of the smoothest loco's I own.  The result is well worth the effort.  Short of buying brass, this is one of the best choices for a PRR steamer.

[ai5629]

When I see the photos you guys post of your PRR steamers, I really want to model that era.  The 1950's steam/diesel era is so interesting compared to todays boring railroading.  I have one of those GHQ converisions my father bought when GHQ first produced them.  He never did put it together.  Maybe I'll attempt it some day.   By the way, were either of you who posted the photos the one who had photos of there PRR layout in the Keystone Modeler?  One more thing, I see Alto in the background.  How difficult was it to put an NSA kit together?  I bought Alto and MG, but they are way down the list of things to do.  Thanks.

[Bob Bufkin]

Thanks Doug. 

Don't know if you remember of not but I was talking to you at the last PRRT&HS meeting.  I asked you about the decals you provide with you cars. Was wondering when you would do the class B70a and B74b. 
Bob