Proto87 Street track for N?

[bradb]

One of the modules I've been wanting to do includes about 5' of street running, including 3 switches.  I've been struggling with the appearance of the switches in the "street" - it's a little hard to hide the fact these aren't the correct type of switches.

I've been looking at the Proto87 street track system (http://www.proto87.com/street-track.html) with considerable interest now that they're finally adding switches (the "Easy Street" stuff mentioned at http://www.proto87.com/new-products.html).

So, any thoughts about using this stuff (minus the actual street surface, I'd use styrene) for N scale street track?  I'd think if they've got an HO compatibility mode that this would work for lo-pro's in N.



Or am I just trading one odd look for another?

Brad.

[3rdrail]

What code is the rail? Most railroads did NOT use "girder rail" for street trackage, that was used principally by traction lines. Some did use single point switches, though, which more or less require girder rail to work properly.

I'd say buy components for a switch and some trackage and test it thoroughly before committing to anything.

[bradb]

What code is the rail?

I couldn't find the actual code used, it almost looks like they are etching this stuff (in the picture below they mention removing parts from the 'fret')



I suspect you are right about simply placing a small order and seeing how it looks, for probably less than $20 I could get 32" of straight rail plus joiners (and shipping).

Brad.

[Chris333]

I think they etch it and stack 3 pieces together. It still has a height though. Code 55 rail is .055" tall, code 40 is .040" tall, etc.

[wm3798]

Outside of joining the street trackage to the private right of way, does it matter how tall the rail is if it's buried in the street?
This will be an interesting experiment.
Lee

[3rdrail]

Outside of joining the street trackage to the private right of way, does it matter how tall the rail is if it's buried in the street?
This will be an interesting experiment.
Lee

If it's girder rail, it sure does matter how deep the flangeways are, unless you want your cars and locomotives to ride on the edge of the flange instead of the tread. Not much current pickup though the edge of the flange... I'd estimate the flangeway depth would probably be about 1/3 of the rail height.

[bicknell]

It claims the flangeway depth is 0.7mm, which is 0.027in.  Pizza cutter flanges are pretty much that, so they may be an issue, other than that other wheels should work.

Code overall is not an issue, since it's buried.  The rail head may look a little wide though, not sure.  Also, once you narrow the track the turnout geometry (the X shaped bit) is going to be off, not sure if it will be enough to matter.

[Mark5]

It claims the flangeway depth is 0.7mm, which is 0.027in.  Pizza cutter flanges are pretty much that, so they may be an issue, other than that other wheels should work.

MT pizza cutters are 0.033"

Mark

[jmlaboda - RIP]

"I think they etch it and stack 3 pieces together. It still has a height though. Code 55 rail is .055" tall, code 40 is .040" tall, etc."

Burried in a road the hieght won't be a factor unless you don't make your roadway deep enough.  Getting the gauge right will be the real problem... especially so with turnouts.

[bradb]

Just for an update:  I got a response from Andy at Proto:87 and he mentioned at least one person has used the street track system for N scale, and that there shouldn't be any issue in using the switches.

The switch parts are now available for purchase, so I'm getting ready to pop for a quick order for enough rail to do 5' of track, plus 3 switches (including the frogs), the alignment pins, and the flat wiring system. 

I'll post photo's and more details as I progress.

Brad.

[jmlaboda - RIP]

"The switch parts are now available for purchase, so I'm getting ready to pop for a quick order for enough rail to do 5' of track, plus 3 switches (including the frogs), the alignment pins, and the flat wiring system."

In looking at the points of the switches this is one part that railroads have in common with trolley lines, in that there is a built up area around the single point.  Had found a really good shot of street trackage recently in the RRPA site but didn't save it or the link but it showed the same type of point being used, along with a few other parts, while simply rails were in place in between point and frog assembles.  Hope to be able to find the shot once again but it may be a crap shoot.

[jmlaboda - RIP]

Not the shot I wanted to find but it shows that parts can be used to make two point switches as well...

http://abpr2.railfan.net/abprphoto.cgi?may08/05-08-08/Hand_thrown_switch.Basin_Street-07-05-08_c.jpg

Note that the inside guard rail has an angle end, where the guard rail would continue, but overall either type of switch should be possible with this system, providing that the gauge can be kept right.  Hopefully Brad will be back to us on this very soon!!!

[3rdrail]

I notice that switch has two points and that the rails outside the point areas and the frog areas seem to be girder rail as well. It's all so well filled in with dirt that it is clear it hasn't seen a train in many a moon...

[bradb]

Just a quick update (finally) on this...

I placed an order a few days after the last post in this thread, and it just arrived this week.  (It seems there was a problem with the order when it was being packed and it was set aside and essentially forgotten until I e-mailed.  To make it up to me, Andy refunded me twice the shipping cost  - so my order shipped for free, as well as my next order)

I've only spent about 15 minutes playing around with it, and had intended to do a test this weekend and post pictures, but went to watch my son's band competition on Saturday and spent all day today working on cleaning my garage (I'm very late on getting that done as promised) so nothing yet, sorry.

I'll get back to this later in the week and post a few pictures - so far I think it's going to work out pretty nicely, but then again I'm somewhat of a 3-foot modeler so YMMV.

Brad.

[inkaneer]

Just a word of caution.  Be sure to insulate.  In the larger scales when overhead is used both rails can be the same polarity so there is no need to insulte them.  If no overhead is used you will have to insulate one rail from another.