Lowering FVM cars...

[ljudice]

I really like the new FVM boxcars - but I think they are a bit too high...

I found that replacing the trucks with Atlas accumates - and sanding down the bolster to be level with the rest of the underframe pretty much solves the problem.

But - what is the right tool - etc... to get a level sanding of something like the bolster? I always feel I am off a little and end up with a slightly tilting car. There must be a systematic way of doing this.

[tom mann]

I would like to know too.  I file a little, test a little, file a little, etc.

[Chris333]

I finally got the correct tool... a lathe with a milling attachment! 

[160pennsy]

But - what is the right tool - etc... to get a level sanding of something like the bolster? I always feel I am off a little and end up with a slightly tilting car. There must be a systematic way of doing this.

Would something like this do the trick?

http://www.nscalesupply.com/NWS/NWS-57-4.html

[DKS]

But - what is the right tool - etc... to get a level sanding of something like the bolster? I always feel I am off a little and end up with a slightly tilting car. There must be a systematic way of doing this.

Would something like this do the trick?

http://www.nscalesupply.com/NWS/NWS-57-4.html

I've got one of these, but it's not really set up well for something like filing bolsters (difficult to hold a frame rigidly in place). What I've done is clamp the frame (using cardstock as a buffer to prevent damage) in a vice such that the frame is parallel to the jaws and the jaw tops are the height I need to file to. Then I just gently file down until the file is in contact with both jaws.

[tom mann]

I finally got the correct tool... a lathe with a milling attachment! 

How many underframes can I send you?
 

Do you have a link to the model you bought?

[Chris333]

Instead of buying a mill. I bought a lathe with a milling attachment since I want to turn steam domes and things like that.

I bought a Taig Mini lathe:
http://www.cartertools.com/
http://www.cartertools.com/catalog.html
Everything I bought without a motor was $450. I got a new motor at work (saved $90) You can also get motors on e-bay and from old tread mills.

One slight problem is just how small this thing is. The side to side travel is only about 4". So A lot of times I need to mill one bolster then flip it and mill the other.

If you just wanted a mill this one is nice:
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82573
Max has it.

[tom mann]

If you just wanted a mill this one is nice:
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82573
Max has it.

Ok, but how can I file a bolster with that?  It looks more like a drilling press to me?!

[Chris333]

It is a drill press, but with heavy duty bearings to be able to take a load sideways.

You would chuck it up with a end mill bit:
http://www.efunda.com/processes/machining/images/mill/end_mill_types_1.gif

/>
Now if you have a drill press that is pretty heavy duty you could just get a X-Y table for it and buy a few end mill bits.
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_focus.php?Focus=X-Y+Tables
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82389

You bolt that to your drill press. Clap the underframe to it upside down. Set the depth you want to cut and lock the press in the down position.  Now you use to 2 dials on the X_Y table to move the under frame around.

If you get a end mill a little wider than a bolster you would just need one swipe. And since most underframe are only cast metal you could probably get by with a drill press.

I'm still learning mine, only had it for a few weeks now.

[tom mann]

It is a drill press, but with heavy duty bearings to be able to take a load sideways.

Excellent! 

[ryourstone]

Poor man's way - take a block of wood and drive two screws in about an inch apart down to the level you need. Hold frame between and file, when you start hitting both screw tops it's level. I made lots of wobbly cars before I figured this out, and it works perfectly.

[wazzou]

I've done over two hundred and fifty Micro-trains underframes on a Craftsman Belt/Disc bench top sander combo.
I found that with a medium grade paper on the disc portion, good lighting, my Optivisor and a good digital caliper, I could knock out about 10 per evening in roughly half an hour.  I converted all to low-pro wheelsets and lowered frames in just under a month.  Once on a roll it was really easy to recognize the location on the bolster that you wanted to sand to before measuring with the caliper.

[UP_Phill]

Here's my setup. I purchased this quite cheaply at the Brisbane Train show and mainly use it to mill frames and lower freight car bolsters.

Made by Proxxon in Germany btw.



Sorry about the crappy pic.

[wazzou]

Phil -
Is it just the picture or does that bolster slant toward the front some?  In other words, it appears to be thicker nearer the center sill and thinner toward the end of the car.

[UP_Phill]

Yep, the bolster is level with the frame sill.  The slant of the frame makes it look like it's not level. Again, sorry for he pic quality.