Is Code 40 worth "the trouble" (if there really is any)?

[Hyperion]

So I'm finally building my layout, and I've got the benchwork a large percentage of the way done.  Ever since deciding I was finally gonna take the plungs I've been on the fence between Atlas Code 55 and hand-laying my own track (I'd be using FastTracks).  And with hand-laying I have either the choice of all Code 40 or with a Code 55/40 mix.

When you work on/around the rails all day, even Code 55 looks out of place (though not that bad).  So Code 40 certainly appeals to me.  But that means hand-laying.  Which I don't think would be a problem for me to do.  But I am worried about the operational aspects of it.  One of the reasons hand-laying appeals to me is that I always hear how much more reliable the switches are, and I'd hate to trade added switch reliability for an overall decrease in reliability because of the rail size I chose.

I hear about problems even with Code 55 (which could be manufacturer design defects more than anything, I dunno) and I worry about how much worse Code 40 would be.  I know I've got to go with lo-pro wheelsets, and that's fine.  I don't foresee my trains ever being that long -- probably 8 feet at most.  But there might be some pretty long backward movements -- when dealing with Auto-Maxes and 89' Hi-Cubes, it doesn't take many cars before you're backing up a pretty long cut. 

I guess I'm looking for insights, opinions, whatever, on the following choices:

1>  Just lay all Atlas Code 55. 
2>  Atlas Code 55 on the Mains and hand-lay Code 40 everywhere else
3>  Handlay Code 55 everywhere
4>  Handlay Code 55 on the Mains and Code 40 everywhere else
5>  Handlay Code 40 everywhere


And, just to note, all my hidden/staging track will be Atlas Code 55 no matter what.  Haven't decided on whether I'll handlay hidden switches yet or not.

[John]

I thnk the major problem would be wheels .. Chris does this code 40 all the time ..

[wcfn100]

The wheels shouldn't be a problem with c40 if your already going to use Atlas c55.  I would suggest either going with Atlas c55 or hand-laying c40.  The c55 rail without the tie plates and spike head details can really look big, especially in photos.  And I've moved out of the camp that would suggest using c55 on the main so you can use the smaller c40 rail on sidings.  First of all, you rarely ever notice it when people do it, and secondly, why would you want the closer to scale track to be on your sidings?  Most photos (and general viewing) will be of your locomotives somewhere on the main, so make that the best looking track you can.

The only problem I've had with c40 is how fine it is compared to c55.  You need a bit more caution or maybe make a few more templates to take out the human factor.


Jason

[Walkercolt]

You're reaching towards the "Proto 160" group who had Micro-Engineering make up a special run of Code 33(!!!!) rail for them to handlay. As you go smaller in scale, the defects in track are magnified. It's very easy to get defects in handlain N trackage, epsecially with lighter rail. Kinks, vertical bends, misaglainments all cause bigger problems, hence the popularity of flextrack. Backing long cars with lo-profile wheels, on code 55 or below, even with body mounted couplers can very easily turn into a nightmare of derailments. Add curves and switches(unless they're #10's or more) and things get worse. Can it be done? Sure, if you're willing to spend the time to get your trackwork PERFECT. The Z-scale guys make Z-TRAK work with modules they drag around to shows, so it's possible. Look at your wheel flanges and the height of the rail you're using. The closer they are to the same size they are, the easier it is to derail a wheelset. There are people doing Proto87, running code 55 track and micro wheel flanges, but it weighs more, too. Take a step back, and decide how deep into this you really want to get. Flextrack will get you up and running much faster, and finding Kadee N-scale spikers on eBay is a challenge, and exspense. From 2 feet, will you REALLY notice the differnce? That's for you to answer. Whatever you decide, best of luck to you.

[Chris333]

I use code 40 rail for Z scale:
http://picasaweb.google.com/ErieChris333/ZScale
Haven't used it for N yet though.

[jmlaboda - RIP]

Only you can really make the decision of what to use and where.  Personally, Atlas code 55 is the way I would go for all of my mainline, with some code 40 flex track (and possibly some switch kits thrown in) but that is a good ways down the road since I haven't started working on any physical layout yet (and my virtual railroad isn't going anywhere either).

If there were someday in the hear-after flex track that featured something like code 33, yah, I would use such on old spurs that are intended to represent trackage that was put into place decades before my modeling period... but really it is up to you what you choose to use.  If you feel comfortable trying smaller rail and turnouts, go for it... but if you are not then be careful, it could call into question all that you feel about N-scale.

[John]

Backing long cars with lo-profile wheels, on code 55 or below, even with body mounted couplers can very easily turn into a nightmare of derailments. Add curves and switches(unless they're #10's or more) and things get worse. Can it be done? Sure, if you're willing to spend the time to get your trackwork PERFECT.

You are drinking someone's cool aid .. I back long trains all the time on code 55 using lo-pro .. no more problems than any other track

[tom mann]

I would do this:

Atlas code 55 turnouts
ME code 55 flex on mainlines
ME code 40 on sidings (and for variety, cut out 20% of the ties).

Where can I get some of this code 33?

[DKS]

I would do this:

Atlas code 55 turnouts
ME code 55 flex on mainlines
ME code 40 on sidings (and for variety, cut out 20% of the ties).

Agreed on all points.

Where can I get some of this code 33?

Yes, yes! Where?

[Ryan87]

Where can I get some of this code 33?

The British 2mm Association sells code 30 rail in 10 meter bundles for about $14 + shipping.

http://www.2mm.org.uk/index.shtml
http://www.2mm.org.uk/products/shops.php?shop_num=1

[bambuko]

The British 2mm Association sells code 30 rail in 10 meter bundles for about $14 + shipping.
http://www.2mm.org.uk/index.shtml
http://www.2mm.org.uk/products/shops.php?shop_num=1

- it is not really a "rail" just rectangular cross-section wire (similar to Dave's code 25)
- it is £3-50 per 10m coil (which is more like $7 not $14)
- all 2mm association products are on sale to memebers only
- I know of nobody who sells sub code 40 rail? so I would be very much interested to hear more about this code 33 ....

Chris

[Ryan87]

Oops Oops & Oops...

Their goes my idea of getting some...

[Boiler-man]

In my opinion "No" Code 40 is not worth the trouble.

I would go with Atlas Code - 55 on all my track, they have the largest assortment of components available and that minimizes the hassles.
There was a problem with their #5 turn-outs but that was resolved.
My whole layout is done with the Atlas Code - 55 track, I like it, the price is right, it looks and works good as well.
Only issue that I can recall is loco and rolling stock wheels must be in gage, you will need a NMRA gage no exceptions!

Hope that I have shed a little light on the subject, however the bottom line is; you should do what works best for you .

[RockGp40]

...however the bottom line is; you should do what works best for you .

Code 80 and Bachmann RTR it is then!!!!!!!!!!!!
 ;D

[tom mann]

...however the bottom line is; you should do what works best for you .

Then I'll quit the hobby and exercise more... ;D