Atlas Code 55 Switch Control Options

[Dave V]

Lee,

That does look neat, although since many of my turnouts would be "interlocked" and controlled by a tower, I'd have to come up with a better disguise than an old-fashioned tall switch stand.

Any details on construction and wiring with that option?

[Bob Bufkin]

In the navy we used to call them weather guessers.  Got a Lt reservest working in the office who is a met guy.  He says the USAF doesn't do weather over the ocean.
Bob

[John]

Lee,

That does look neat, although since many of my turnouts would be "interlocked" and controlled by a tower, I'd have to come up with a better disguise than an old-fashioned tall switch stand.

Any details on construction and wiring with that option?

That slide switch thing is pretty easy .. use the center contact to run the wire to the frog .. the other two contacts on either side go to the track ..

[CVSNE]

Marty,

I've seen those, and they definitely look cool.  Question: about how far below benchwork do they hang?  Also, can you wire two of them together for a crossover?  Independent switch control in a crossover is kind of a dumb idea.  I've T-boned trains that way before.

Dave,

I will check the exact measurements tonight but they are considerably smaller than Tortoises -- and I think they will clear your 3" requirements - maybe with some room to spare.

You said "T-boning" like it's a bad thing  . . . think of it as a way to replace all those older cars and locomotives - and even some new ones - in a random manner.  ;D ;D

I been thinking through using these to control a crossover and believe I've got it figured out. I need to look at the mechanism again and make sure I've got how they work firmed up in my head.  If so, it should be fairly easy to get two of these to operate a crossover with one actuating lever provided everything is oriented correctly.

Marty

[wm3798]

You're using a hollow core door, right?  It's feasible to cut out the surface of the door under the crossover area, and install those Atlas under-table machines.  They should work pretty well, being as the door's "skin" is only about 1/8" thick.  Use blocks and screws to re-install the panel, and wire the machines to a modular plug on the edge of the layout.  You can mount your push buttons on a removable panel that could be packed separately when you move.

Failing that, you could "sculpt" the micro switch to look like a remote control switch machine...

Lee

[RDG_Rich]

I have an "over engineered" method using masonite turnout "pads", micro slider switches and push pull rods. Later tonight I will post pics and explain. The beauty is that the turnouts are easily saved if you decide to rip them out later. 

[chuck geiger]

Dave this will work fine:

[Wlal13again]

[Before I hear the chorus of "on my taxpayer's dime?," I pulled my fair share of deployments to get this job! ;D
[/quote]


Thats OK Dave, Taxpayers paid for my college and now my pension as well....

[chuck geiger]

The only think that comes close to working without a lot of sweat and toil is Ed's article
on his website.

[RDG_Rich]

Thats OK Dave, Taxpayers paid for my college and now my pension as well....

Taxpayers are PAYING for my overpriced degree, and will pay for my pension starting in 11 years... Thanks...um... ME? 

Okay, so I said I would post some pictures So here dey be:



That is 1/8 masonite, which should mate up nicely with standard cork or WS foamy road bed. Mine are (were) buried for the no graded roadbed logger look. (don't ask for done pictures because this is as far as they got...although I did wire them up to polarize the frogs.)



The linkage between the two is just a plain ole atlas track nail.

[Greyryder]

I use micro switches set into the top edge of my layout. They're connected to the turnouts by piano wire running through brass tubes. I gives me good pressure on the points, and the option to wire for power routing is always there.

Mine are wedged in between the fascia (with the mounting tab on top of the fascia) and a piece of sheet styrene that keeps the switch from digging into my foam scenery base. They stay in place great, and I can remove them easily, if I need to do maintanence. I've got them all mounted in recess, to minimize their impact on the scenery.

My one ground throw operated TO uses a recessed throw (ala Ed Kapuscinski's method) with the handle cut off and replced with a short piece of piano wire for a semi scale look.

[bsoplinger]

Question: about how far below benchwork do they hang?  Also, can you wire two of them together for a crossover?  Independent switch control in a crossover is kind of a dumb idea.  I've T-boned trains that way before.

Just thought I'd point out that the link has a picture for size comparison to a Tortise.

Since they're controlled by a push rod, I'd assume if you used a flexible shaft you could attach it to 2 at once to get a ganged throw for crossovers or any other use.

[Dave V]

Guys,

Thanks for the photos and info!

Essentially I just wanted to know if I had options that would work within my constraints before deciding to go with Code 55.  This is now on my "to-do" list, but like I said, not until after the upcoming move.

[Pomperaugrr]

I use micro switches set into the top edge of my layout. They're connected to the turnouts by piano wire running through brass tubes. I gives me good pressure on the points, and the option to wire for power routing is always there.

Mine are wedged in between the fascia (with the mounting tab on top of the fascia) and a piece of sheet styrene that keeps the switch from digging into my foam scenery base. They stay in place great, and I can remove them easily, if I need to do maintanence. I've got them all mounted in recess, to minimize their impact on the scenery.

My one ground throw operated TO uses a recessed throw (ala Ed Kapuscinski's method) with the handle cut off and replced with a short piece of piano wire for a semi scale look.

Greyryder, can you post a photo of your switches near the fascia?

Eric

[Greyryder]

I'll try to get a picture of them, in the next few days. Just found out last night, that the reason my computer's been sluggish, is that my C drive is dieing a slow and horrible death. I gotta deal with that, first.