A moment to vent and rant

[pnolan48]

I use acetate for the windows. I also paint the windows first. I find it easier to paint around the windows.

[sparky]

Don't DPM kits come with clear acetate for the window glazing?

[DKS]

Yes, the DPM kits should include sheet acetate for window glazing.

BTW, I do most all of the painting after the kit is assembled. The joints often take quite a bit of sanding and test-fitting as the edges are not square. I start by spraying the whole thing with the brick color, then I apply the window paint with a brush. I find it easier to cut the window color up to the brick than vice-versa because the window frames are smoother. After some weathering washes, any minor irregularities along the cut lines disappear in the dirt.

[tillsbury]

Yes, paint the frames first -- always easier to get an accurate paint finish up to an edge (from the existing brickwork).  It gets quicker.  Try doing the sills a different colour if you want real trouble!

Ed, don't use acetate for large windows (i.e. the shop windows on the ground floor).  Use glass from http://www.ngineering.com/details.htm, the reflections in the glass make all the difference. 

Charles
 

[bsoplinger]

Real glass is mighty nice in windows I agree, but a pain also.

I like the pre-printed window treatments that are out there. Neal's has the shire scenes ones and there is another company also. Check out the thread over on the Atlas forum, I listed a few companies that make window treatements, printed clear plastic for the DPM buildings along with a company that makes paper cutout interiors for them which also look nice.

If I knew how to make a link to the A board I'd post it. 

[Lenny53]

I guess I'm really strange, because I don't mind painting the DPM windows.

I don't mind painting the windows either, having DPM modular sections totally warp out after gluing and painting turrned me off totally.

[pwrr-eric]

Wow, my first post.

I've had good luck using the largest brush I can possibly use for the job.  Seriously.  Something like a size 0.  It has to be a decent, stiff brush with a thin, flat tip.  I use those sideways and get good results.  I tried the 10/0 and 20/0 route and used the brush the way you're "supposed to" (in the direction of the handle) but it flared out too much and made a mess. 

I've been on the site for a few days now and really enjoy it.  Great tips and always an interesting read.

Eric

[Train Nutz]

When ever I run across a kit that either doesn't have or not enough clear acetate for the windows I'll gab for a MT box and remove the clear acetate inset from it. Cut it to size and glue into place. If you got plenty of MT cars then you'll have loads of clear acetate to use for window glazing on what ever project you may need it for.
Train Nutzzzzzzzz

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I haven't done it yet, but I've got some clear presentation covers for the windows. I really need to get around to it, but I've got a lot of module prep going for the upcoming Timonium show.

Good tip on the MTL boxes though.

[Wlal13again]

A friend of mine came up with the idea of using glass slide covers, you know like you use with a microscope, for large windows.

[asciibaron]

what is the road number and herald of the model you are painting?   wait, it's a structure? Model Power makes some really nice pre-builts that would look awesome on your layout Happy Ed.

-'67 sniping

[bsoplinger]

A friend of mine came up with the idea of using glass slide covers, you know like you use with a microscope, for large windows.

Ngineering sells ultra thin glass to use:
http://www.ngineering.com/details.htm

How about real window glass in N-Scale that approaches proper thickness? Our picture is shown with Athern's new N-Scale Ford C-Series Tractor for size and clarity. Imagine being able to bond a thin, clear material using any type of glue, epoxy, or adhesive without worrying about it being attacked (softened or crazed). If you accidentally get adhesive where it doesn't belong, wipe away the excess and wait until the remaining film is dry, then (gently) scrape it off! Try that with acetate or styrene. It can also be painted with virtually any type paint.

Unlike some microscopic cover-glass products, this is manufactured from clear, borosilicate glass which is very superior in strength. This glass has super clarity and is perfectly flat. Each sheet is uniform in size and thickness. It can easily be "scribed and snapped" to required size (see How to... above for details).

It really does make a difference, it has that 'ghost' image thing going for it just like real glass and unlike so many of the plastic substitutes.

[ryourstone]

Some brick building got a complete coat of paint, making it a little easier    This one is finished like a prototype in Elizabeth NJ:



-Rich

[amato1969]

I like that billboard.  Period signage like that adds a lot to the "theme" of the layout...