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That's .010 styrene to make a pocket on the frame; motor is 90-degrees from the original. On this one I didn't tinker with the wheelbase. On the later Shay and Climax B conversions I did. You can change the driveshaft length by cutting it and stuffing it into a piece of square K&S tubing. It works. On this one I also stuffed in the original resistor and I'd never do that again either.You're going to have to replace the motor contact strips with wire; not a killer, just get used to it. And you 'probably' could simply goo or epoxy the motor right on the frame instead of trying the pocket thing.Chris made the masters for his sideframes, which was the original inspiration for me starting to cast resin. I got my sideframes from him; also the one hood end that turned into the GE 25-tonner. Chris did a GREAT job on those sideframes - that's what convinced me to try to learn to do this.
On another note, what kick-a$$ shortline heavily weathered scheme should I choose?
Quote from: tom mann on May 05, 2006, 09:24:53 AMOn another note, what kick-a$$ shortline heavily weathered scheme should I choose?Not sure but the scheme on these looks familiar ;Dhttp://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=94499
Nobody can't ever say that 44-tonners aren't versatile and historic. Here's a shot of them during the Battle of Antietam, bringing up fresh troops. Supposedly General Grant is just off-scene to the right.