44 Tonner

[tom mann]

Richie,
Those sideframes ain't to shabby!

Richie,  I agree with Chris here.  They look great.  Just as a backup, what number are the sideframes on the RLW site?

[Chris333]

http://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ItemID=791

[nscalesteve]

Well , theres the both trucks for better or worse .

...I'm just a lurker here in this thread (and an instigator if I can
trust the words of a wise man and water diviner...) and I don't
need a 44 Tonner (no I don't need one...) but this little engine
with this sideframes looks awesome, well done Richie, well done !  ;D

[tom mann]

Richie,

You also did an awesome job on the cab windows.  How are you planning to weight it?  Did you notice the drastic performance increase when weight is added?

Someone asked what tools you need.  Well, in addition to the needle files, I've also used a Xuron cutting tool.  I may also get some fine grain sandpaper for my next one, since the shell has a lot of imperfections due to the casting process...that paint does not cover up :-[

[up1950s]

You guys are much too kind .

 Tom I haven't weighted it yet . While waiting for those Trainmaster handrails I am gluing in a forward / aft chassis blocking system so along with the center section that I left in place to stop side play , the chassis will have no place to shift or rock . After that I will devise a screw attachment somehow , as I would rather not use Goo . Then comes the weight . I don't think mine will be as weighted as yours , you really have a big chunk in there . I may just fill the center sub-sill area . I'm not intending on this to do anything except pull its own weight or a car or two . Its just for roundhouse activity . This is a loco that didn't need to be turned on a table but found itself there as a way of moving dead loco's and tenders in the engine facility when needed . I believe the weight or lack of made this a one man loco also .   

[randgust]

Richie, I think you're doing great.

Any weight you add to the center increases electrical pickup but doesn't increase pulling effort; the weight adds as much drag on the the pickup truck as it does power on the geared truck.

Whatever you can jam over top of the gearbox up in the hood area translates directly into tractive effort - that's the payoff area.  Works great.

Anything you put over top of the motor may increase pickup but decreases traction.

The other thing you can do - if you're trying to make one of these things actually PULL, is to sacrifice a second critter mechanism and put a second traction tire wheel on the opposite corner of the front gear truck.  Holy smokes, what a difference that made in the Class B Climax!  It didn't really affect the electrical pickup much, either.

Tom, if you're having any difficulty in sourcing the A&A decals with some accurate photography, I can put you in touch with the A&A - PM me if interested.

[tom mann]

Thanks guys.

I spent just a few hours with my 44 tonner today.  Some thoughts and updates:

1.  I used a plastruct I-beam to fill in the pilots, since I had to remove the existing foot board because I lowered it too much.  This looks pretty awesome.

2.  I painted the bottom half black like the MILW Rd prototype.  Randy, thanks for the offer.  The A&A was my original plan due to Simon's find, but I discovered that the Milwaukee owned some of these:

http://rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=354247

...and it was obvious what to do

3.  Painting the model shows a lot of flaws in the casting.  Richie and Simon and everyone else, go over yours with a fine tooth comb before painting.

4.  Since I can't file the windows straight, I'm looked for a grant line window that I can modify and "plop" in place.  Any suggestions?

Anyway, a big welcome to the Atlas forum visitors, who no doubt find it amazing that more than 1 ge 44 tonner was posted to snff.  Maybe we'll light a fire under the Kato engineers, too.

[Chris333]

Tom,

Is your frame thin enough to fit inside the hood?

I filed my frame down, but it is still to wide to fit.

Oh yeah you know that MILW 44T is one of the first ones...I expect you to add those side vents

[kiwi_al]

You guys have got me started now ;D


http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/5000/cat/558

[up1950s]

Ok , in the first shot you see I added 2 white , 060 x .060 cross bars on either end of the chassis . They are crooked , but it doesn't matter . I have no idea how that one side got so un-square to the chassis , I must have moved it when I went to do the other side . It wont be noticed when the model is on the track , so it wasn't worth redoing to me . They act as a fixed chassis bolster , and a point where blocking can abut . On the next 2 shots you can see the 4 blocking blocks with some green paint on them . This keeps the chassis from sliding fore or aft . I put them on extra long , then when dried I centered the chassis , and with a 0/5 itsy bitsy paint brush I marked the blocks with green paint . I then removed the chassis and cut the blocks to size with a thin chisel . After cut adjustments the chassis fits perfectly . Now I added some .010 plastic to the inside sides of the cab and against the seated chassis that abuts the inside of the cab wall . I carefully glued that thin plastic to the cab wall only . After 5 minutes I carefully removed the chassis , added more glue and let set over nite . This morning I thinned that plastic enough so I can snap in the chassis and pull it out without prying apart the shell . It just needs to lightly retain the chassis . This shell is short so there is very little flex . I was going to try a screw mount , but wherever I thought a screw would work ultimately presented a problem , and I rather not Goo the chassis in place , thats why I went with the shim plastic that created a recess for the chassis .

Weight was next , Randy said to heavy up the area over the driven truck , so I made a dam at the forward cab wall , I then filled it with Loon . After making sure it didn't interfere with the truck gear box movement or the drive shaft , I put a coating of Krazy Glue all over it to help it stay in place .

Total weight of chassis and shell is about 7/8 oz . I was able to push and pull 10 freight cars , but 8 is less strainful . For something this size , and only having 4 on the floor , thats better that double of what I was hoping for .

Handrails have been ordered , and I have no idea at this point if those will work , or if I will just get down and dirty with the solid brass scratch fabs . Either method is a stick in the eye to me . After that , its off to the paint shop to emerge as UP 1399 . I have another to do , but I want to bag this first before setting my sights on the next beast .

   

[tom mann]

then filled it with Loon

What is Loon exactly?

[up1950s]

Tungsten fishing weight in a clay like form .

[3rdrail]

Since I came upon a real 44 tonner Saturday, thought some of you building one might like a photo. The Southeast Railroad Museum has two from the Hartwell Railway. The other was in the shop and is a former NYO&W unit repainted in O&W colors.



I had to pretty severly reduce the size of the photo to get it on here. if you are interested in a larger copy, ~700K, PM me and I'll email you one.

[bsoplinger]

Since I came upon a real 44 tonner Saturday, thought some of you building one might like a photo. The Southeast Railroad Museum has two from the Hartwell Railway.

Is it me or do those side windows look as uneven as the castings (which I'm hoping to get my 3 of any day now)?

[up1950s]

Since I came upon a real 44 tonner Saturday, thought some of you building one might like a photo. The Southeast Railroad Museum has two from the Hartwell Railway.

Is it me or do those side windows look as uneven as the castings (which I'm hoping to get my 3 of any day now)?

Some look even and some don't .