Author Topic: Walthers 130 foot turntable track  (Read 327 times)

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mike_lawyer

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Walthers 130 foot turntable track
« on: September 22, 2026, 07:21:43 PM »
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Hey guys,

I just ordered a Walthers 130 foot turntable.  I know that the track on the bridge is Code 80.  I use ME code 55 on the rest of the layout.  Can anyone recommend specific Code 80 flex that matches best with the bridge track to create the approach tracks?  Thanks for any help on this.

Mike

nickelplate759

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Re: Walthers 130 foot turntable track
« Reply #1 on: September 22, 2026, 08:02:18 PM »
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I've got one as well, and also am using code 55 on the layout.   I'm hoping that I can replace the bridge rails with code 55.  Anyone ever tried that, and if so how?
George
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I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.

nickelplate759

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Re: Walthers 130 foot turntable track
« Reply #2 on: September 22, 2026, 08:06:45 PM »
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Well, a quick search turned up this thread:

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=57627.0

Most popular approach seems to be leave the turntable alone and shim up the approach tracks by .025"   
George
NKPH&TS #3628

I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.

mike_lawyer

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Re: Walthers 130 foot turntable track
« Reply #3 on: September 22, 2026, 09:23:33 PM »
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I've got one as well, and also am using code 55 on the layout.   I'm hoping that I can replace the bridge rails with code 55.  Anyone ever tried that, and if so how?

I had a friend who tried that, the electronics in the bridge are VERY delicate.  He said it is better to stick with the stock Code 80 rail on the bridge and either use Code 80 approach tracks or shim up Code 55.

sschnabl

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Re: Walthers 130 foot turntable track
« Reply #4 on: September 23, 2026, 01:07:59 PM »
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I converted the c80 rail that came with the turntable to ME c55, and it really wasn't that hard.  There are two wires, one soldered to each rail for power.  I simply unsoldered the two wires, slid out the c80 rail, replaced it with c55 rail, and resoldered it.  My biggest worry was the delicate plastic railing along the bridge.  I didn't want to inadvertently touch that with the hot iron and melt it.  So I took a wet rag and draped it over the railing and it worked.

One thing I will mention is make sure to remove as much of the solder as possible before sliding out the rail.  Otherwise you will run the risk of breaking the little spike heads that hold the rail in place.

Also, the thickness of the lip of the pit is a bit thicker than the thickness of ME ties, so you will still need to shim up your approach tracks a little bit.


Good luck,

Scott