Bachmann Streamlined K-4 conversion

[delamaize]

I'm sure I'm not alone here, but I needed a standard K-4 for my Broker consist I'm working on. One problem: Find one, let alone one that isn't though the roof expensive. Well, I did an experiment. I bought a inexpensive streamlined K-4, and sat down with the parts diagrams for both the Streamlined and non-streamlined versions. Conclusion? As expected, basically the same locomotive. I did the conversion, then decided that I liked the streamlined one, and put it back, which was simple. I found another, Inexpensive Streamlined K4 and ordered it, so I'll have both, once this one gets here.

So, For those of you that want/need a standard K-4, and don't mind doing some work, Here is the minimum parts list, as of writing this all parts are available directly from Bachmann's parts department.

Cylinders - Black (N Scale K4 4-6-2) 00L01-00L02-B
Pilot (N Scale K4 4-6-2) 00Q01-0AC04 (If you want the cast pilot, the Part number is 00Q02-0AJ06)
Loco Shell - PRR#5448 (N Scale K4 4-6-2) Model: 00A01-52853
Tender Shell - PRR#5448 (N Scale K4 4-6-2) 00K01-52853

If you want an earlier, Brunswick Green one, the shells, cylinders and specific parts are available for it also, just different part numbers.

Some Notes on the conversion:
1. The deckplate under the cab on mine had to be trimmed a tiny amount, as the streamlined shell is a little longer.

2: There is a spacer of the front of the mechanism, kinda above the cylinders, but below the smokebox area, that is different between the 2 versions. to get the standard shell on the mechanism, I had to remove that spacer. I protected the area with Kapton tape, to prevent shorting. when the new locomotive gets here, I may try modifying that spacer this time around.

3: Headlight, There might be an issue with Where the LED is on the board. When I did the conversion the first time I noticed that the headlight was not lighting. I took the smoke box front off the non-streamlined shell, and checked if the LED was working, which it was. I also noticed that the light pipe had a little paint on it, cleaned that up, but still didn't have light. There is a plastic shield that sits on the light board, that is held down by the same screws that hold the board. I have not investigated more, but that shield might be the issue. I did notice that the Streamlined and non-streamlined boards have 2 different part numbers.

4: Tender Light. The streamlined version has a rear tender light, the non-streamlined one does not. Save yourself some hasle, Unsolder the tender light board from the main tender, and leave it in the streamlined tender.

5: Cylinder block: The streamlined version has a little centering pin cast into the frame, where the non-streamlined one does not have said pin. 2 options with this: Option 1, Drill a small hole in the cylinder block, beside the mounting hole, and open it up with an xcato knife to the right shape. Option 2, File off the centering pin. When I did this conversion, I drilled and cut a hole in the cylinder block. This time around, I think I'm going to file off the pin, this seems like the better way overall. Just a note on that also, Getting the pistons and valve gear lined up in the cylinder block is a fiddley, time consuming process. Take your time, and work slow. Also, I staged mine so the pistons were each as far forward in their rotation as they were going to go. This helped because it gave a little more slack to work with.

6: Pilot. Bachmann did not have the pilot supports available on their parts list. I'm just going to make my own out of some piano wire.

I think that's pretty much it. As soon as I receive the next streamlined K-4, I will take some pictures as I do the conversion, and update this topic.

Cost overall, Well I got both K-4s for $225, and I'm about $70 in parts, So total is about $295. Considering the last 4 or 5 standard K-4s I saw on eBay sold for $350+, to me it was worth the work. Finding a cheap streamlined K-4 is the key.

[delamaize]

Alright, New Streamlined K4 showed up today, so I got pictures. So, here we go...

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Here we have our Vict...Err.....Donor, Yeah lets go with that.

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We are going to start with the tender, Remove the 2 phillips screws that are close to the middle of the tender, Just behind the rear wheelset of the front truck.

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Next, disconnect the plug from the board, and feed it back though the tender. We will be re-routing these wires in a minute. Also, De-solder the red and black wire. This will allow us to take the tender shell away.

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Next, remove the front truck and drawbar, and carefully feed the wiring harness up though the hole in the tender floor. Re attach the draw bar and truck.

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Route the wires like I have them here, With one change, Where the wires go past the white plug, Divide them into 2 groups, and route them to either side of the white plug. clearance is tight here.

Now we are going to put the new shell on to the frame. There is clips on the back of the Shell, that index into holes on the frame, and the screw lugs need to drop down thought slots in the decoder and board. I found it was easiest to locate the lugs into the notches on the decoder, then rock the clips into the holes on the back, then set the shell the rest of the way down. Replace the screws. A note on this, which was interesting. For this one, When I tighten the screws down all the way, the tender sat front low on the frame. when I did the experimental conversion on the other one I have, this wasn't the case. I compared the 2 shells, and everything is the same for mounting, so I'm not sure why this one allowed the front to sit lower. For now, I just didn't tighten the screws down all the way. I'll probably make some spacers to put in later. But for now, that is the tender finished. Just because, I test ran it after I was done, just to make sure everything is good to go.
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Next up, the locomotive.

[delamaize]

Ok, Here we go with the locomotive.
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remove the 2 screws from under the cab, When you do this be sure that the plastic spacers come with the screws. remove the shell by lifting the back of the shell, and sliding forward.

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Remove the forward most screw from the bottom plate, and pull up slightly on the plate, and front truck to remove the truck. Alternately, you can remove both screws, and remove both trucks. I prefer this way, because it keeps the plate in place, and insures nothing falls out, and comes out of quarter.

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remove the screw holding the cylinder chest, lift slightly, and pull forward, all the valve gear will slide out. The Arrow is the centering pin I was refering to in the original post. File this off flush.

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With the pin filed down, Carefully slot the crossheads into the guides on the cylinders, feed the valve rod back into the holes, and make sure the valve link off the crosshead is pointing forward. This is finikey, and precise work. go slow, take your time, and be careful. Set the cylinder block back in place, and add your pilot, use the original screw to secure everything together.

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Reinstall the front truck, and test run. Everything should be smooth. If not, start looking though the valve gear and see if something got misplaced. This is where pictures from before you started are handy.

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This is the shroud on the headlight LED I was referring to in the first post. Remove it, and make sure the headlight tube is clean on your new shell. I was able to get the headlight working by doing this. Also, you will need to either Shorten the stock screw about half, or replace with shorter screws. I had some shorter screws that were the right size in a screw kit I got off amazon.

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This is the spacer I was referring to in my first post. I ended up just removing it. Also, removing it, gave enough space that I didn't have to trim the rear Deckplate.
Put the shell on the mechanism by inserting the front into the smoke box, and while rocking in down into place, gently pull reward. If everything lines up correctly, you should be able to thread the 2 screws from the first picture back thought the mechanism, and into the shell.
And that is it!

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Do your finial test run, program, and add to your fleet!

some thoughts; I really like this mod, because it is 100% reversible. I'm keeping all the original parts in the original box, and storing it. If for some reason, I want 2 streamlined K4s, and no Un-streamlined ones, I can easily put it back.

Yes, I'm aware the loco is brunswick green. I ordered the wrong shell first time around. I've got the right one coming. If anyone needs/wants a brunswick green K4 shell, this one is going up for sale once the new one is here.

I don't think this is a first timers project. But if you have successfully disassembled, and reassembled steam in the past, this is very doable.

I wish I would have taken a few more pictures.

Overall, I'm glad I found another cheap Streamlined K4, and decided to do this mod again. It's nice to have both in my fleet. Although, I think I still like the streamlined one more.

Front Coupler, The part from Bachmann didn't come with one, or the pocket. I ended up mounting a MT 2004 into the pilot. It did take some trimming, but it's not distracting. If I remember I will get a picture tomorrow and post it.

the only thing I see myself doing to this, besides swapping the locomotive shells when the new one gets here, is making the front pilot supports out of piano wire, and making some spacers for the tender, so I can get the screws tight.

Thanks for letting me ramble on about this. JFRTM

[Dave V]

Heh, I totally missed this thread the first time!