Re: Weekend Update 5/31/26

[peteski]

Apart from the Tichy decals looking like they're cut out of 3/4" plywood, I think it's serviceable.

Unfortunately they use an early UV-cure inkjet printer which lays down rather thick ink.  Works well for billboards or other stuff they make, but not so much for waterslide decals.  Actually, it would probably be good for printing N scale rivet or panel lines decals like the ones made by Archer.

[nkalanaga]

I have quite a few custom decal sheets from Tichy, and I agree that they're not the best.  They look good on paper, but are definitely too thick.

And, yes, I have thought about working up a sheet of rivet decals for them to print.  If I felt like rebuilding my main bridge (again) I'd do it.

[wm3798]

Unfortunately they use an early UV-cure inkjet printer which lays down rather thick ink.  Works well for billboards or other stuff they make, but not so much for waterslide decals.  Actually, it would probably be good for printing N scale rivet or panel lines decals like the ones made by Archer.

My biggest beef is they are virtually insoluble using any of the standard techniques.  In a fit of desperation I tried using a tiny drop of Plastruct cement on the fireball, which crazed the paint underneath, but barely softened the decal film.  In the end, I slid a new decal on, it laid reasonably flat just with water, blotted it, and immediately applied the dullcoat. 

It looks like the railroad might have used a cheap vinyl applique, or even a big magnet, rather than paint for the logo, which I was informed by a WMSR staffer, is NOT the case with the prototype.  Until something better comes along, it's done, and I can have fun posing it in front of my Cumberland Station module!

Lee

[nkalanaga]

Yes, I had that problem as well.  The decal film is fine.  The lettering simply won't soften.

And, yes, I also tried plastic cement (Testors), which had no effect.  In my case it didn't damage the paint, but it didn't affect the decal, either.  My first decal order from them was end reporting marks for all of the older cars I had (several hundred), so many of the decals went on less-than-flat surfaces.

[peteski]

Yes, I had that problem as well.  The decal film is fine.  The lettering simply won't soften.

And, yes, I also tried plastic cement (Testors), which had no effect.  In my case it didn't damage the paint, but it didn't affect the decal, either.  My first decal order from them was end reporting marks for all of the older cars I had (several hundred), so many of the decals went on less-than-flat surfaces.

In my experience with UV-cure inks is that they often are solvent resistant.  The printer Tichy uses is not really a good choice for what supposed to be very thin and flexible waterslide decals which (often with decal setting solutions) are supposed to conform to uneven surfaces.

Some time ago you sent me a sample fo their decal and I was actually able to measure the ink thickness with my digital caliper (with 0.005" resolution).  I think the ink was 0.001" thick, which is magnitudes thicker than other inks used for "good" decals are.

[wm3798]

@albabe63 sent me a link that provided their instructions, which are not typical practice.

For logos, the recommend sliding the decal off onto a paper towel, then putting a dab of Solvaset UNDER the decal on the model surface to position it.  This will dissolve the decal film under the printing, which I suppose will assist with adhering the art to the model.
However the ink itself will still be an issue.  I'll give it a try and report back the results
Lee

[up1950s]

Unfortunately they use an early UV-cure inkjet printer which lays down rather thick ink.  Works well for billboards or other stuff they make, but not so much for waterslide decals.  Actually, it would probably be good for printing N scale rivet or panel lines decals like the ones made by Archer.

Is there anything you don't know ?

[nkalanaga]

Lee:  I tried that as well.  Like you, Solvaset under the decal didn't help the lettering at all.

Fortunately, most of my decals from them have been "reweigh data", just numbers and letters for reweighing older cars, a common sight through the 1970s.  They go on smooth surfaces, so work fine.