N Scale 1960's Wagner L60 Log Stacker....

[Sumner]

Log Stacker -- Pt. 1

This is an N scale model of a 1960's Wagner Lumberjack Model 60. Well as close as I could get from a couple pictures of one I found on the internet. There are a lot of pictures of the 90 and other later ones that were designed and made in the 70's and onward to today. I needed something from the 60's so with a few basic measurements that were published created this with a lot of guesswork about a number of the components on the log stacker.

I'll use two for my sawmill scene. One to unload trucks and the other to unload rail cars.

 

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These were and are huge machines capable of lifting 60,000 to 120,000 lbs depending on model. This is a 60 ton/60,000 lb model. I modeled this off of a couple distant, only one angle shots of one the Hull Oakes mill had.

I talked to the owner recently and they said the sold it and moved to a model 90 later as the 60 was too light and would pivot down to the ground with a load that was too heavy leaving the back wheels/tires off the ground. I did hollow this one out and have a bottom cover and hope to fill the cavity with weight.

 

There are 3 pivot points in the model allowing one to position three of the components in different positions. .025" piano wire is used at the pivots.

 

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If the model was in a fixed location I can see away to operate the movement shown above from under the model/layout but won't pursue that at this point.

 

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This was the first print of the model and it came out good but plan a couple minor changes to it. When those are done I'll put the print files up on my thingiverse account ( HERE ). I'll also come back and post links.

Sumner

[Sumner]

Logstacker Build -- Pt. 2

There isn't a whole lot to the logstacker build. There are only 4 parts, the body, main truss, front carriage, hold-downs and a bottom cover.

 

There is a cavity in the body where one can add weight. Probably needed it you are going to have logs in the carriage and it up in the air unless you are going to hold it down some other way. I put some BB's in but will get some smaller fishing weights or shot as that will fill the compartment better.

 

Drilling the pivot holes can be tricky especially if you are using a brittle resin (not recommended) I was drilling them all the way through by hand but then found that if I just drilled in a bit by hand to center the hole I could use a hand drill at a high speed. That worked great and no parts were broken. There are holes in the print file but they still clog some but do help you guide the bit through.

I use Siraya Tech 'Build' resin for all my prints. Never have problems with it and it can be drilled and tapped. I only cured these for 2 minutes in my wash-n-cure station. The 'Build' resin stays somewhat flexible for some time if you don't cure too long. I can say it works great for this model and everything else I've used it for.

I used .025" music wire for most of the pivot points but also some .020" wire.



I was going to air brush the body and parts but got lazy and bought a can of spray paint. I find that most of the time I can mist a light coat on and have good coverage that doesn't cover up the detail with the newer paints. This one paints on all surfaces including plastic and worked fine for me.

 

Three of the main parts can move. You could/can glue them in any position that you want or leave them movable.

 

With the three movable parts you can make hydraulic cylinders of different lengths to put the parts in different positions.

 

For now at least I made the hydraulic cylinder out of 22 gauge solid core wire for all of the centers. For the larger part of the cylinders I used the larger solid core insulation (left it on) for the larger main truss cylinders. The 22 solid core was also used for the other two cylinders but the insulation was removed and some insulation from 22 gauge stranded was slid onto the solid wire. This gives the impression that these cylinders are a little smaller than the ones used for the truss.

 

Two different lengths of the truss cylinders were made to hold it at different heights. More might be made in the future. Also the other two cylinders can be made in different lengths as needed.

 

I'm happy with how the model came out and again spent more time on it than I though I would going in. A big shout out to Autodesk for the ability to use Fusion free for the CAD work if you are a hobbyist. If you aren't commercial I really recommend it and if I was commercial I'd for sure pay the yearly fees to be able to use it. It is that good.

More info on the sawmill and links to all the print files for it and the machinery in it ( HERE )

 

The model will be a nice addition to the sawmill scene and I think the mill is going to put in an order for a second one.

 

The logstacker is huge in real life but even a scale size is small in N scale as seen perched in the palm of my hand above.

There is a short YouTube video ( HERE ).

You can find the print files on my thingiverse account ( HERE soon after I make a few minor changes for the hydraulic mounts).

Sumner

[samusi01]

Nicely done, sir, very nicely done. Perhaps something for you to consider - after a while - is to revisit and have the wheels and tires as a separate part for easier painting.

spent more time on it than I though I would going in

I believe that's customary for a project like this. At least, it's how mine go...

[Sumner]

I made some minor changes to the logstacker and time to put the print files up on thingiverse but first a few more images.

 

Since I was working off only a couple pictures and had no detailed dimensions there are probably errors compared to the actual Wagner Lumberjack logstacker that I'm trying to model.

 

These are large pieces of equipment in real life and fairly large in N scale but I've got detail on it that is close to the limits of even a resin printer.

 

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With all the angles and such I learned some new things using fusion. I couldn't of designed these the first year using it. If you start using a CAD program (highly recommend Fusion) have patience, you will learn more and more as you go along.

 

Hope to get this scene finished someday but now trying to get track down on the upper and lower levels is going to take priority.

 

The sawmill scene will probably end up with only one or maybe two at the most logstackers.

You can find the print files on my thingiverse account ( HERE ) .

Sumner

[John]

Nicely done, sir, very nicely done. Perhaps something for you to consider - after a while - is to revisit and have the wheels and tires as a separate part for easier painting.

I believe that's customary for a project like this. At least, it's how mine go...

I modified the files to separate the front/rear wheels I downloaded last night for easier printing and painting.  I'll send the files to @Sumner if he wants to include them in his distro as an option.

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[Sumner]

I modified the files to separate the front/rear wheels I downloaded last night for easier printing and painting.  I'll send the files to @Sumner if he wants to include them in his distro as an option.

(Attachment Link)

Thanks John I'll add them but.............I've found it quite easy to paint the wheels/tires since the body gives me something to hold onto  while doing it. 

I had considered making the rear wheel separate so that it could be rotated into different positions but didn't at this point as I really need to get back to wiring and laying track on the layout.  Might still do that  but maybe your separate rear would work.  If I do it I'll make it so one can insert a rod into the body and the wheel assembly would rotate on it at any time so the tire/wheel wouldn't be fixed.

Sumner

[Sumner]

Thanks John I add them but.............I've found it quite easy to paint the wheels/tires since the body gives me something to hold onto  while doing it. 

I had considered making the rear wheel separate so that it could be rotated into different positions but didn't at this point as I really need to get back to wiring and laying track on the layout.  Might still do that  but maybe your separate rear would work.  If I do it I'll make it so one can insert a rod into the body and the wheel assembly would rotate on it at any time so the tire/wheel wouldn't be fixed.

Sumner