Kato U30C shell swap/new chassis old shell

[mecgp7]

I read on Spookshow's site that the shells for the Kato U30C and C30-7 can be swapped so that an old shell can go on a new release chassis and vice versa. So I bought a new release chassis for an old shell and there ain't no way it will fit without altering the chassis or shell or both. Perhaps I misunderstood. What have others found?

I did search and found how others said it was an easy swap, bit I don't understand how. The chassis is too wide so that the body will only slide into the chassis about 3/4 of the way.

[mecgp7]

I read on Spookshow's site that the shells for the Kato U30C and C30-7 can be swapped so that an old shell can go on a new release chassis and vice versa. So I bought a new release chassis for an old shell and there ain't no way it will fit without altering the chassis or shell or both. Perhaps I misunderstood. What have others found?

I did search and found how others said it was an easy swap, bit I don't understand how. The chassis is too wide so that the body will only slide onto the chassis about 3/4 of the way.

[central.vermont]

Clint, don't have any first hand experience but on other old shell to new chassis I have found that the number board glass interferes.
So try removing the number boards and give it another try.

Jon

[spookshow]

I never said it was a straight swap. But I did say -

Shells can be swapped between the two versions, although the forward numberboard detail (with its arm of light-conducting plastic) is very different between the two versions, and as a consequence, a bit of a sticking point. Based on my experiments, the old numberboard part does not work with the new chassis (and vice versa). Consequently, I had to leave said numberboards with their original chasses when performing said shell swap. Also, the old shell has a raised section on the inside that tends to interfere with the lightboard on the new chassis. Sanding down said ridge definitely makes for a better fit.

-Mark

[mecgp7]

Jon, the issue is dead center on the shell. As Mark explains there is a ridge or added thickness in the old shell.

Mark, looks like I did misunderstand. Grateful we have your site for reference.

Curious how others have sanded down the interior of the old shell. Kind of tight in there.

[randgust]

When I run into situations like that I use a rotary cutter bit (barrel-shaped, round, flat nose) in a dremel that can reach down inside and run along the inside.   Do it lightly, use eye protection, it will blow up a lot of shavings.   But it works.
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/385b3e86-4346-45e7-b224-e9ef45c56db0_1.4eadeccc0a8b013668385d52bf4e3720.jpeg

[mecgp7]

Thanks to all involved, I now have the shell resting comfortably on the chassis. I sanded down the ridges on the inside of the shell and also rounded the top edge of the chassis frame where the issue was located. We are up and running; three custom numbered PRR U30/28Cs. I don't even model the PRR!

[OldEastRR]

Are you talking about putting a U30C on a C30-7, or the old shell of the same type of loco but new frame? U30C old shell on U30C new frame? I did this.

[mecgp7]

Yes, old U30C shell on new release chassis.

[sandypsj]

Apologies for reviving this old thread! I find myself in the situation described here--I have a DCC-equipped C30-7 chassis onto which I'd like to swap a shell from the DC-only run. Where I'm coming up short is figuring out *how* to get the window glass/light fixture plastic piece out of the respective shells. Can anyone advise on the safest way to go about that?

[nkalanaga]

On most Kato locomotives they push out fairly easily from the outside.  I use a blunted toothpick to avoid scratching the plastic.