Bambu Labs 3D Printers - Experience/Opinions?

[JeffB]

For that price you can get a resin printer.  https://us.elegoo.com/collections/lcd-printers?utm_source=officialmenu&utm_medium=referral&utm_id=usstore

Jeez...  And I thought that the Phrozen printers were getting cheap!!

Been running the balls off my Phrozen Sonic Mini-8K the last few weeks and looking at a second one (Amazon has a great bundle for one, plus a spare LCD for under $450), but for the price of the Elegoo machines, it might be worth it to switch manufacturers.

Jeff

[pdx1955]

Here's my first draft shot of a mid 50s TOFC hitch and related tie-down box, measured off of photos and available trailer models from Tinkercad. The whole thing is just about 5 by 7 mm, with most of it at 0.6 mm for the hitch frame at  0.12 mm layers printed on a Bambu P1S that I got a week ago. Theoretically with the standard nozzle I can get down to less than a N scale inch and even less with the fine nozzle which means this will work for the fine parts that I need. This printer is impressive!

[Sumner]

.... Theoretically with the standard nozzle I can get down to less than a N scale inch and even less with the fine nozzle which means this will work for the fine parts that I need. ...

Nice.  Would you try printing one or both of these....





There are details on both that get close to a N scale inch.  I'd like to see how it handles those.  I might be looking for a different filament printer at some point.  You can find the print files for both at these links....

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6785497

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6749814


Thanks,

Sumner

[Cory Rothlisberger]

Here's my first draft shot of a mid 50s TOFC hitch and related tie-down box, measured off of photos and available trailer models from Tinkercad. The whole thing is just about 5 by 7 mm, with most of it at 0.6 mm for the hitch frame at  0.12 mm layers printed on a Bambu P1S that I got a week ago. Theoretically with the standard nozzle I can get down to less than a N scale inch and even less with the fine nozzle which means this will work for the fine parts that I need. This printer is impressive!

I found that when using the 0.4mm nozzle, I can't really get a nice, square corner on smaller items. The 0.2mm does improve that, but of course makes the print times longer...

[pdx1955]

Nice.  Would you try printing one or both of these....





There are details on both that get close to a N scale inch.  I'd like to see how it handles those.  I might be looking for a different filament printer at some point.  You can find the print files for both at these links....

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6785497

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6749814


Thanks,

Sumner

I'll give it a shot. The boats will probably be more successful as the other one will really depend on the supports printing properly and managing to free them without breaking the model (course this is an issue with resin too). If it works out well this will allow for being able to use other's designs as needed.

[pdx1955]

I found that when using the 0.4mm nozzle, I can't really get a nice, square corner on smaller items. The 0.2mm does improve that, but of course makes the print times longer...

True, but that due to how these printers work with the layers.  These parts did have square corners under magnification, but even if they were slightly rounded , especially considering actual use , it won't be noticeable enough. I do want to try the 0.2 nozzle but they were out of stock when I ordered it. As I improve my 3d design skills, I'm sure I'll find plenty of areas where the smaller nozzle will work better.Also waiting on some tan filament so I can try your lumber loads too.

[pdx1955]

I'll give it a shot. The boats will probably be more successful as the other one will really depend on the supports printing properly and managing to free them without breaking the model (course this is an issue with resin too). If it works out well this will allow for being able to use other's designs as needed.

Ok, I used these files as practice working with various settings and especially supports. I got the cabless boom boat to print fine other than unable to get the steering wheel printed. That would have to be an added part in case of these printers. After a couple tries, I got the cab boom boat to print (note the exhaust stack did print and survive the support removal but I managed to break if off anyway). Breakaway supports are critical as otherwise the cab won't survive.

The bandsaw sharpener did not work out well. The body printed out ok and so did the blade stands but the stands could not be separated from the supports. Also could not get the saw blade to print...too much overhang.
Also printed out a few of your 2 by 6 lumber stacks which came out ok, but if I print this one again I'm going to flip it 180 degrees to try to avoid the supports for the overhanging board on top.

[pdx1955]

Just for grins, I found a 50 foot double door boxcar file on thingiverse and printed it out as-is with a underframe and a one-piece body. The sides came out pretty clean. There is some funkiness with the roof slope ( potentially thus could be cleaned up with adjustments to the adaptive layering) , but it's better than some of the 3D prints that I've purchased in the past. All I need is a brake wheel, grab irons, and stirrups to complete the body. That is acceptable as these can get broken off easily.