1st Run Athearn D&RGW Challenger

[Mike Madonna]

Good evening all,

I'm working on the above loco for a friend. It is Athearn #11803 with road number 3802. The issue? The eccentric crank pin has come out of the driver on the front engine, left side. The pin looks like it is "splined" on the end. I presume it's a simple "press on" fit and nothing more? Of course, I would have to orient the actual E-crank for proper operation. Any input would be appreciated....
Thanks!

[mmagliaro]

Generally speaking, get the driver around to having the crank hole on the bottom.  Then put the eccentric crank in so it points straight up.  Some engines do not have the cranks timed quite that way.  They might have a slight fore or aft leaning angle.  But if you get the wheels on one of the OTHER engine trucks rotated so the crank hole is at the dead bottom, you will be able to see the correct orientation for the one you need to put back in.  I find it always easiest to put those pins in with the crank hole at dead bottom.

It doesn't have to be 100% right to work, by the way, just close.
 
My bigger concern would be why it came out in the first place.  That usually doesn't happen on an engine that's been running for years.  Maybe there is a hairline crack at the crankpin hole?  Either way, I'd put a tiny dab of Walthers Goo IN THE HOLE (not on the pin) before you push the pin in.  That will keep it from working its way out, without making it impossible to remove later if need be.  (put the GOO in the hole so there is no chance of getting it on the rods, exposed pin, or rod surfaces, where it can make them get "sticky").

[superchief]

Mike,
     I found a first run UP 3985, my nephew wanted, bought it got a good price, ran it about 10 feet and the eccentric came out, I put a dab of super glue gel, reinserted and been working just fine, as Max said may have a crack in the hole, first run had some issues, decoders got hot on some and melted the tender. I bought first run UP 3985 NEW and never had a problem with it. But I am a Santa Fe guy it it normally runs during open houses for the kiddos with sound.
                                                                                    Gordon Bliss

[Mike Madonna]

Max & Gordon,

Appreciate the replies!
I intend to look into after the Holiday. Since this is a "dual mode decoder" (DC/DCC), I could just hook it up to my
DC pack and rotate that driver?
Thanks again Gents....

[superchief]

yes or a 9 volt battery to the wheels!!!! great for train shows too!! Gordon

[peteski]

yes or a 9 volt battery to the wheels!!!! great for train shows too!! Gordon

While I also use that "trick", which is perfect for DC and non-sound DCC decoders with  DC-mode enabled, a 9V battery will seldom have enough power (voltage and current) to run a sound-decoder.  Or it will get the sounds running, but not enough voltage to run the motor.

[Mike Madonna]

UPDATE:

I had a chance this evening to look into this further. I repositioned the hole at the "6 o'clock" position. Inspected the hole (under magnification), it does NOT look like it has any cracks (in the driver). Looked at the other drivers to see position of E-crank in relation to axle. Without any fixative, set rods in place and gently pushed pin into driver. The pin (which is smooth) seemed to hold considering I did NOT put very much pressure on it. I noticed that the rods seemed to have a bit of lateral movement on the crank pin. I looked at the other drive pin/rod set up. The reason why the rods have a bit of "slop" is that there is a flat washer missing. The other 3 drive pins have the washer and are properly lined up with no lateral movement. Athearn provides an "exploded view" of the driveline in the included brochure on the loco. I did NOT see said washer. So, now comes the question; can this washer still be obtained from Athearn? I looked briefly at NWSL. They offer washers, but I would first need to measure one of the other three. I don't feel comfortable reassembling this loco without that washer... especially since it's not mine.
Again, thoughts welcome and appreciated!

[mmagliaro]

Are you able to measure one of the other washers with a caliper?  i.e. thickness, diameter, hole size?
It doesn't have to perfect (unless that aesthetically upsets you).  Just something close.

 eBay has washers down to M1.0 (1.0mm bore)
  If it's smaller than that, try here:
https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/washers

They have washers down to M0.5 (yes, the hole in the washer is only .019")

[Viperjim1]

Athearn has re released  the 4-8-8-4 which I’m sure is the same part as the 4-6-6-4. If you have the part number or their email or phone number give them a call as they probably have those in stock in their parts department as when the pin comes out bye bye washer! And I’m sure they would know what washers as probably had a lot of issues from those locos in the past.

[Mike Madonna]

Max & Jim,

Good leads/ideas, appreciate it. I plan to follow up in the short term... as in soon 

[mmagliaro]

Another good source for tiny washers like this is to buy photo etched sheets of them used for model car building.
Search the web for "model car etched washers".   I have several sheets in stainless and brass from who-knows-where (I've just hoarded them as I've stumbled on them over the years).  You can get them in really handy thicknesses from .005" up to .020", and in every hole bore and washer outside diameter you will ever need.