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For you modern era modelers, they also have concrete tie code 55 flex track. Don’t know how the tie spacing compares to USA prototype, but it’s available.
I too am a confirmed Peco user, would never use anything else. I bought a gorgeous Atlas curved turnout once... maybe it's because I'm so used to Peco's robustness but calling the Atlas "delicate" is an understatement; I wrecked it the first time I cleaned the track.FWIW here is an alternative to using Tortoises and juicers to power a frog on a Peco, using a slide switch as a switch stand.Details: the turnout is thrown using a Radio Shack SPDT slide switch, still available for a buck per: https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-dpdt-submini-slide-switch It links to the Peco throw arm via a bent up piece of piano wire. The SPDT's center pole goes to the frog and the others go to the rails' power. The holes on the switches' solder contacts are too small for my feeder wire so I drill them. The SPDT's travel is a bit more than the Peco's throw, so to compensate the wire hooks into an 1/8" oversized hole in the switch handle to add slop. Adjust the wire bends so that the Peco throws reliably with the slide before turning on you DCC power, otherwise you can get a short.I've been using these for a couple of decades now. I did have one of the SPDTs fail on me once and had to replace it, otherwise no issues whatsoever.The flex is ME code 55. As you can see, it's hard to notice the difference in the ties once things are ballasted.
What are you powering the switch with to get the power back to the frog?This seems like a more reliable method than the power routing or juicing. It basically is a cheaper frog juicer which is highly appealing
